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- #141
The 30a was at idle as well. Not sure if increased rpm would have brought it up.
Builds 1988 BJ73 slow build...
- Thread starter NGray
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He's talking about the 12 volt tap off the battery. What's the yellow tap off the neg on the 2nd battery?
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- Thread starter
- #143
Thanks Jericho...I'm a bit slow at times, so wasn't sure, I'm assuming the yellow wire is what you both are talking about. I'll have to trace it and find out where it is going to. The Cruiser had a lot of aftermarket electrical work with the locks/alarm/converter and I'm running circles trying to bring it back to somewhat normal wiring and disconnect what is not needed. So far I have disabled the power locks and alarm system.
I took a volt reading of both batteries and will be monitoring them to see what kind of drain I may be getting.
Edit...didn't read you asking about the yellow, sorry. I'm not sure.. I need to trace it.
I took a volt reading of both batteries and will be monitoring them to see what kind of drain I may be getting.
Edit...didn't read you asking about the yellow, sorry. I'm not sure.. I need to trace it.
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Well I guess it doesn't matter where it goes, any 12 volt tap will throw the batteries out of whack. First thing to do is remove it or it will ruin your batteries. 12 volt accessories need to be run with a 24 to 12 volt converter. When the batteries are out of sync... And the cruiser begins to charge there is an unequal distribution to the booth of them ie one under charging and one overcharging. Same goes for a 24 volt charger, if there off it'll make the situation worse.
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crushers
post ho
a good quality 24V-12V converter is the best answer to your 12V needs ...
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- #147
The radio is connected to a 12V converter under the seat.
I followed the yellow and it goes to a 24V box in the where a blue line is feeding to the inside, another blue is going to the frame as a ground, and the brown leads into the wiper connections and is in there...no idea why, I pulled out the connector and the wire was pushed in. Tapping a feed? I think that may have been power for the door locks and/or alarm.
It isn't hooked up to the negative side on the battery, just loops around it.
Voltage readings: Front - 12.55V yesterday and today 12.51 / Rear 12.51 today 12.47...so even drain over sitting for 24 hour period...I read the radio and clock in the truck will drain the batter slowly over time.
I think the cable with 30A fuse is what connects the radio to the ignition, not power.
I followed the yellow and it goes to a 24V box in the where a blue line is feeding to the inside, another blue is going to the frame as a ground, and the brown leads into the wiper connections and is in there...no idea why, I pulled out the connector and the wire was pushed in. Tapping a feed? I think that may have been power for the door locks and/or alarm.
It isn't hooked up to the negative side on the battery, just loops around it.
Voltage readings: Front - 12.55V yesterday and today 12.51 / Rear 12.51 today 12.47...so even drain over sitting for 24 hour period...I read the radio and clock in the truck will drain the batter slowly over time.
I think the cable with 30A fuse is what connects the radio to the ignition, not power.
- Thread starter
- #148
cleaned up the rats nest and removed/tucked away the yellow wire. Everything is still working fine, took a while to sort out what was what...most was for the alarm system and aftermarket locks. There were a few wires I didn't know where or why they were there so left them in just to be safe.
- Thread starter
- #149
well everything is working...minus my pyro gauge........crap.
It lights up when lights go on, boost gauge is working..but pyro is no longer reading.
Edit. Fixed and everything traced. Will write up later.
It lights up when lights go on, boost gauge is working..but pyro is no longer reading.
Edit. Fixed and everything traced. Will write up later.
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Yes totally correct it ruins batteries real fast
- Thread starter
- #151
Thanks Cicak and Jericho.
I traced the wires with a friend and after my pyro went dead I'm hesitant to move wires around again. Here is how it is wired when the original work was done. The pyro is back working fine.
The photo of the 24v relay has a blue ground to the frame, a blue wire that is connected to the pyro in the cruiser and the brown wire which is tapping off a 24v feed from the bottom left socket wiper connector. The yellow cable goes from the relay to the battery, as seen in the photos. I can't imagine it is drawing a lot of power while the truck is running and the relay shuts power off when the ignition is off (all it is feeding is the pyro)....that being said if this is a huge drain I'm all for suggestions on how to wire 24v power to the pyro properly.
The other tap is to the ignition so the radio turns on when the truck turns on, and off when it turns off. All this was wired before I got it, as you can see from the photos from a previous post it was a rats nest under the steering wheel and I did the best to clean it up.
Dumb question, but if there is an unequal drain won't I be able to see it in the front battery if I let it sit for a day or two and take a reading? When I took a reading over a 24 hour period (cruiser just sitting) the drain was equal in both batteries, 0.04V
cheers.
I traced the wires with a friend and after my pyro went dead I'm hesitant to move wires around again. Here is how it is wired when the original work was done. The pyro is back working fine.
The photo of the 24v relay has a blue ground to the frame, a blue wire that is connected to the pyro in the cruiser and the brown wire which is tapping off a 24v feed from the bottom left socket wiper connector. The yellow cable goes from the relay to the battery, as seen in the photos. I can't imagine it is drawing a lot of power while the truck is running and the relay shuts power off when the ignition is off (all it is feeding is the pyro)....that being said if this is a huge drain I'm all for suggestions on how to wire 24v power to the pyro properly.
The other tap is to the ignition so the radio turns on when the truck turns on, and off when it turns off. All this was wired before I got it, as you can see from the photos from a previous post it was a rats nest under the steering wheel and I did the best to clean it up.
Dumb question, but if there is an unequal drain won't I be able to see it in the front battery if I let it sit for a day or two and take a reading? When I took a reading over a 24 hour period (cruiser just sitting) the drain was equal in both batteries, 0.04V
cheers.
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Trust me 12v taps off either battery will cause you no end of grief one battery will due after 2 to 3 months as it slowly drains down.
- Thread starter
- #153
gotcha. Thanks.
Any suggestions how to properly wire in the pyro for power or radio off the ignition?
I realize I'm being daft here, but I'm trying to understand this for my own knowledge...one day can hopefully pay it forward....When I was taking meter readings and noticed equal drain in both (24 hour period), how does that happen? My limited brain function is trying to understand why the lower battery that is being tapped isn't draining any more than the other.
really appreciate the advice, Cicak
Any suggestions how to properly wire in the pyro for power or radio off the ignition?
I realize I'm being daft here, but I'm trying to understand this for my own knowledge...one day can hopefully pay it forward....When I was taking meter readings and noticed equal drain in both (24 hour period), how does that happen? My limited brain function is trying to understand why the lower battery that is being tapped isn't draining any more than the other.
really appreciate the advice, Cicak
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- #154
I think I may need a propeller and some floaties for my cruiser! If it keeps raining like it has been.
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They are darn good with grits and french fries. 
- Thread starter
- #156
as ugly as it is....works well as a temporary work bench.
- Thread starter
- #157
Started working on a box for the back. No where as nice as some, this being a prime example, https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/286801-canadian-build-jdm-bj74-5.html ...but it will get the job done. Tops and bottoms have been cut, just not on yet.
Going to be 39 7/8" x 27 1/4" x 12 3/4". Going to piano hinge another piece on the back of it to make a complete bed when the seat is laying flat so it will extend to 49". Plan on carpeting it once done and just make simple drawers to pull in and out. Nothing fancy, but better than the plastic box I have now.
A/C was out at our house so friend came by to fix the coils...ended up having a cookout....I will miss the front bumper when I eventually replace it.
A/C in my cruiser was re-charged again...looks like I have a slow leak somewhere losing freon. Buddy is going to let me borrow his "sniffer" and try and find it. Hopefully it is just a hose or connection.
Going to be 39 7/8" x 27 1/4" x 12 3/4". Going to piano hinge another piece on the back of it to make a complete bed when the seat is laying flat so it will extend to 49". Plan on carpeting it once done and just make simple drawers to pull in and out. Nothing fancy, but better than the plastic box I have now.
A/C was out at our house so friend came by to fix the coils...ended up having a cookout....I will miss the front bumper when I eventually replace it.
A/C in my cruiser was re-charged again...looks like I have a slow leak somewhere losing freon. Buddy is going to let me borrow his "sniffer" and try and find it. Hopefully it is just a hose or connection.
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See, that bumper is good for something. 
- Thread starter
- #159
so it would appear my AC compressor is shot....or at least I think it is...turned it on today and was blowing cold, turned it off b/c I didn't need it running then a few minutes later I turned it back on and it started squealing like mad.
It would appear when the compressor is engaged the compressor will spin and lock and spin and lock causing on and off squealing...then you can smell the pulley heating up. When the compressor is off it spins fine and nothing locks. Regular vents blow with no issues, which makes sense since it only locks up when compressor is on.
I checked the clutch portion of the compressor and it will keep spinning by hand, which I've heard isn't a good sign. So no idea if the compressor has seized or if the clutch is gone..or what....luckily fall is coming.
It would appear when the compressor is engaged the compressor will spin and lock and spin and lock causing on and off squealing...then you can smell the pulley heating up. When the compressor is off it spins fine and nothing locks. Regular vents blow with no issues, which makes sense since it only locks up when compressor is on.
I checked the clutch portion of the compressor and it will keep spinning by hand, which I've heard isn't a good sign. So no idea if the compressor has seized or if the clutch is gone..or what....luckily fall is coming.
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crushers
post ho
you can replace just the drive but do so before it melts.
my PZ AC compressor did that a couple years ago, working fine, no warnings, driving down the road, come to a stop and there is smoke EVERYWHERE. i thought the engine might have caught on fire. popped the hood and the rubber disc had melted completely and burned the belt.
somewhere around $150 for new from factory.
my PZ AC compressor did that a couple years ago, working fine, no warnings, driving down the road, come to a stop and there is smoke EVERYWHERE. i thought the engine might have caught on fire. popped the hood and the rubber disc had melted completely and burned the belt.
somewhere around $150 for new from factory.
