I hope he charged you for the decals and the pad and ink pens. 
Builds 1988 BJ73 slow build...
- Thread starter NGray
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- #182
Nope! Pretty awesome guy.
I think I mentioned that........ 
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- #184
Progress on the box. It is not finished yet, but I was finally able to put it in. It is no where near as nice as some that have been made, but I'm happy with the results.
- Thread starter
- #185
Where there is regular plywood those will all be on a hinge and my fire extinguisher and speakers will be mounted on the sides. The front piece will cover the drawers and have a lock on it, I assumed it would give the box a cleaner look. I'm still looking for low profile tie downs so once I find them I will be putting them on top. When the seat is laying down a piece will be made (attached to back of box on a hinge) to go all the way across on top of the headrests.
I have a spare battery and eventually would like to use it for 12v cig. lighter, power my radio, etc. Does anyone have suggestions on a way to be able to charge an extra battery up in the rear other than having to plug it in every night?
In other news developed a slow diesel leak on the passenger side, only when running. I'm hoping my pump isn't on its way out and just a line. Haven't been able to trace it yet.
I have a spare battery and eventually would like to use it for 12v cig. lighter, power my radio, etc. Does anyone have suggestions on a way to be able to charge an extra battery up in the rear other than having to plug it in every night?
In other news developed a slow diesel leak on the passenger side, only when running. I'm hoping my pump isn't on its way out and just a line. Haven't been able to trace it yet.
You should have just bought a 70 Series pickup. You wouldn't need those fancy boxes.
Looks good ! Search for some air line track for a top mounting solution for on top of the box. As for keeping the battery charged I guess you could attach a smart node / switch to keep it charged. I use a t-max kit on my other truck and it works great. However don't think it would work on 24 volt systems. I will be watching as I want to run my frig and would add a third battery also.
Those draws look great! Remember the best thing about building your own stuff... You can add, change, and delete whenever you want!
Not sure if I missed it, did you secure them in the back?
Not sure if I missed it, did you secure them in the back?
- Thread starter
- #189
If I could have gotten a 4-door 70 series I would have went for that, the extra seats is just more practical for me.
yeti - Thanks, I'll google those. I'm pretty sure that won't work with 24v, sadly. Too be honest, you may figure something out quicker than I can. I've been googling for a couple weeks now and can't figure out anything other than a solar charger or trickle charger...but nothing practical. I disconnected my radio, need to get it properly wired as well with the 12v converter. I'm thinking I will tap off a continual feed and go from there to the converter rather than the feed that dies when ignition is off.
Jericho - Thanks a lot, I kind of wish I went with black carpet, but oh well. It's taken a couple months to get them done, little bit here and there with the old man helping. Not sure I understand, did I secure the box in the back or the drawers? The box is secured, the drawers currently aren't, once the other piece get carpeted and I get the piano hinges on it will have a solid front with a lock to keep them in place. Right now they are pretty heavy with gear, so I don't see them opening while accelerating.
yeti - Thanks, I'll google those. I'm pretty sure that won't work with 24v, sadly. Too be honest, you may figure something out quicker than I can. I've been googling for a couple weeks now and can't figure out anything other than a solar charger or trickle charger...but nothing practical. I disconnected my radio, need to get it properly wired as well with the 12v converter. I'm thinking I will tap off a continual feed and go from there to the converter rather than the feed that dies when ignition is off.
Jericho - Thanks a lot, I kind of wish I went with black carpet, but oh well. It's taken a couple months to get them done, little bit here and there with the old man helping. Not sure I understand, did I secure the box in the back or the drawers? The box is secured, the drawers currently aren't, once the other piece get carpeted and I get the piano hinges on it will have a solid front with a lock to keep them in place. Right now they are pretty heavy with gear, so I don't see them opening while accelerating.
Should have been more clear, did you bolt the box down? Just curious.
These guys have all sorts of tie downs http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/
These guys have all sorts of tie downs http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/
- Thread starter
- #191
Thanks for the link Jericho. If I can't find anything locally I'll order through them, huge selection.
I have it in place with these. The two seem to do the trick.
I have it in place with these. The two seem to do the trick.
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- #192
oil filter
Does anyone know a current oil filter that will work with a 3bII? Wayne informed me the fuel filter the 3bII uses is the same as the HZ, PZ etc...not the same as the 13bt/3b...but I'm not sure if the oil filter is the same as the HZ or the same as the 3b/13bt. The part-number I got is discontinued = 15600-41010
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Does anyone know a current oil filter that will work with a 3bII? Wayne informed me the fuel filter the 3bII uses is the same as the HZ, PZ etc...not the same as the 13bt/3b...but I'm not sure if the oil filter is the same as the HZ or the same as the 3b/13bt. The part-number I got is discontinued = 15600-41010
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
15600-41010 is no longer available in the US market.
Supersedes to 90915-YZZD3. This is available at any Toyota dealership for about $4.
Supersedes to 90915-YZZD3. This is available at any Toyota dealership for about $4.
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- #194
awesome..thanks beno!
crushers
post ho
ford 302 filter.
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- #196
thanks Wayne. Helps a lot.
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- #197
fuel filter was swapped out, rather painless minus when it was done last someone must have cranked on it with a wrench....took 10 minutes just to get the bugger loosened. Didn't end up filling the new fuel filter and just pumped with the pump for a while...then attached the second line. Started up ran well, sputtered and farted for a minute or two (never stalled) then ran perfect.
Diesel leak seems to have gotten worse when the engine is cold so hoping it may just be a seal (around a drop a second)...slows down a lot when it has warmed up. Hope to have it looked at this weekend or beginning of next week.
Should have most of the box finished off this week as well, will post remainder of the box build once completed.
Diesel leak seems to have gotten worse when the engine is cold so hoping it may just be a seal (around a drop a second)...slows down a lot when it has warmed up. Hope to have it looked at this weekend or beginning of next week.
Should have most of the box finished off this week as well, will post remainder of the box build once completed.
You should really do more to secure these drawers to the vehicle. If you ever get in an accident or roll over that is a lot of weight flying around.
The turnbuckles you have are not offering much downward force at that angle. Try and go with a minimum 45 degree downward angle and also angle them to pull back at the same time. Add another set to the front and have them pull down and forward at the same angles as the rear set. I also removed the latch in the center of the floor for the rear tumble seat and have 2 bolts coming up from underneath into the drawer cabinet using T-nuts.
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- Thread starter
- #199
Thanks for the advice. I'll get on that this weekend when I work on it a bit more. Change the angle and secure it better.
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- #200
So I'm having a rather pain in the ass issue maybe you all can help me trouble shoot before I bring it in Friday to my dad's diesel mechanic.
Since I've owned the cruiser, every once in a while when I start it up it will run extremely rough, stall if I rev it up and barely hold an idle. After a few minutes or a couple restarts it will run perfect....then I won't have an issue for a couple weeks....then I might have the issue two mornings in a row, then no issue for a while. John (gofast) figured I wasn't glowing it long enough and wasn't firing on all cylinders. I started glowing longer (5-10 second after light goes out) and only had the issue once. I changed the fuel filter thinking it may be clogging up.
The truck has been running great for a week, then today it started the roughest it has yet. I let it sputter and tried to choke it a bit and it died about three times when I would let up on the throttle (very low rpms). Finally after trying applying gas pedal gradually (it would hold higher rpm) when I would let off the pedal it would stall right away...did that a couple more times then wouldn't even start...it would turn over but just stall as soon as it was running. Finally, I tried one last time, turned the ignition while lightly pushing on the pedal and it sprung to life, rpms were normal and idled smooth...I drove it to class today (30min drive) with not one issue and it started up perfectly once my course was done.
My limited knowledge is telling me it is a diesel issue and not a warming up issue (or maybe both?). It seems like it isn't getting diesel and sputters (like when I changed out the fuel filter) or like there is air is in the line, then it finally clears itself out. I'm trying to figure out if it is possible air in the line, injectors aren't getting proper diesel, primer pump is on its way out, or if fuel pump is on its way out. I have driven it for a week with no issues since the fuel filter was replaced.
As I wrote before it has developed a slight diesel leak, which I'm having looked at Friday, that slows down once the truck has heated up. I have had sputtering issues before the leak.
Any suggestions for when I meet up with the mechanic Friday would be greatly appreciated. He is a younger guy who is very good for working on diesel trucks...He has seen my cruiser once, thought it was very cool and excited to have a look at it and help out
edit...and from what I've read/researched..it isn't puffing any white smoke.
Since I've owned the cruiser, every once in a while when I start it up it will run extremely rough, stall if I rev it up and barely hold an idle. After a few minutes or a couple restarts it will run perfect....then I won't have an issue for a couple weeks....then I might have the issue two mornings in a row, then no issue for a while. John (gofast) figured I wasn't glowing it long enough and wasn't firing on all cylinders. I started glowing longer (5-10 second after light goes out) and only had the issue once. I changed the fuel filter thinking it may be clogging up.
The truck has been running great for a week, then today it started the roughest it has yet. I let it sputter and tried to choke it a bit and it died about three times when I would let up on the throttle (very low rpms). Finally after trying applying gas pedal gradually (it would hold higher rpm) when I would let off the pedal it would stall right away...did that a couple more times then wouldn't even start...it would turn over but just stall as soon as it was running. Finally, I tried one last time, turned the ignition while lightly pushing on the pedal and it sprung to life, rpms were normal and idled smooth...I drove it to class today (30min drive) with not one issue and it started up perfectly once my course was done.
My limited knowledge is telling me it is a diesel issue and not a warming up issue (or maybe both?). It seems like it isn't getting diesel and sputters (like when I changed out the fuel filter) or like there is air is in the line, then it finally clears itself out. I'm trying to figure out if it is possible air in the line, injectors aren't getting proper diesel, primer pump is on its way out, or if fuel pump is on its way out. I have driven it for a week with no issues since the fuel filter was replaced.
As I wrote before it has developed a slight diesel leak, which I'm having looked at Friday, that slows down once the truck has heated up. I have had sputtering issues before the leak.
Any suggestions for when I meet up with the mechanic Friday would be greatly appreciated. He is a younger guy who is very good for working on diesel trucks...He has seen my cruiser once, thought it was very cool and excited to have a look at it and help out
edit...and from what I've read/researched..it isn't puffing any white smoke.
