Builds 1984 Root Beer in Vermont - Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Seth S
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
Finally had time to check the valves and they were very loose. So loose that it explains a lot of my drivability issues. Those that still exist are likely to be conquered with a carb rebuild and some manifold gasket and resurface love.
Only the #2 valve was tight. I should say these were cold readings so when I set the valves I set them .002” high to account for thermal expansion and also based on hot/cold numbers from other write ups.
Only the #2 valve was tight. I should say these were cold readings so when I set the valves I set them .002” high to account for thermal expansion and also based on hot/cold numbers from other write ups.
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- #123
Failed my safety inspection for a hole in the tail pipe. Searched the internets and all the vendors I could think of for exhaust options. Pretty much a cat back system from Man A Fre for $375 + shipping and a similiar one from SOR....both prices seem a little high for a steel non SS muffler and tail pipe. The Walker system muffler #40199 seems to be NLA but I was able to order a Walker tailpipe from Rock auto for $22. So i figure for now I'll weld this pipe to the old system and use that until the day I can fab up a nicer stainless system.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Oem cat back is still available for about $350. At the airport or I’d send specifics. Ceramic coat it and you have an exhaust that will go for another 30+
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- #125
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Thanks for posting, made my drunk airport self work better.
Yes that is correct, no I use my local dealer or Ruben @ Norwalk since he is generally local for big stuff. $240 is the price I’m seeing.
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- #127
I called my local dealer and they quoted me $333.32. I just ran it through toyotapartsdeal....which I've never used but I think others have posted about in the past and I feel like their shipping fee is a little on the high side:
EDIT: Guessing shipping is oversized due to length and therefore drives a hefty premium. local dealer may be the way to go for this one
EDIT: Guessing shipping is oversized due to length and therefore drives a hefty premium. local dealer may be the way to go for this one
Last edited:
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Curious, ceramic coat all of it?
- Thread starter
- #129
Called another dealer and their price is $350 and change. I see online dealer prices with a sale price of $250 range but of course no where near me so voided with shipping costs. Its interesting how there is so much difference in dealer prices on some of these parts.
- Thread starter
- #131
Definitely lines up properly and matches the profile correctly. Has the rear mount on it in proper location as well. But to use I still have to pull the old off, cut and weld this on or cut and make a junction. Resources limited at the moment I’ll order the oem and forget about it for a while.
- Thread starter
- #132
Went to pick up the exhaust and they brought out a pipe with a new cat, flex pipe and Y pipe with O2 ports in it. Clearly the wrong pipe and not even the front half of a 60 or 62. I told the guy I suspected a new Toyota cat sells for more than $300. He suggested the addition of another 0 was likely. Said he would try to reorder for tomorrow
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Yep! Whole thing
- Thread starter
- #135
First this mess:
When I first got my 60 a couple years ago I could hear a pump go to work every time I turned on the ignition and this I found perplexing because I knew it was stock mechanical. I also had a suspicious single red wire running out of a hack splice on the front of the fuse panel. Eventually I spent some time looking and found the red wire went to power a pump mounted on the inner passenger side frame rail. I unplugged the pump and noticed no difference in performance.
So on thursday I finally had some time to remove all these bits. I wasn't too thrilled to find that this hack job of a repair had cut the factor hard fuel line. I put in a piece of fuel hose for now and will replace with hard line eventually.
So why was this there? I am pretty sure that at some point in the past the original owner started having a hot start issue (because the carb cooling fan wasn't triggering on because the wire to the sensor was broken)....so the previous owner took the truck to some random garage and that guy said...well sure you have a vapor lock problem. I bet I can hack up your truck, put in $50 worth of crap components, charge you some money and not fix the problem. Needless to say at least I've removed all this crap now.
The main task of the day was to install my new Toyota muffler/tailpipe combo and that pieces is all in now. No real drama here other than I learned about the rubber isolator blocks because both of mine were toast. So I had to bolt the exhaust in place with a spacer until I can get the new proper cushion blocks in place.
The last project was putting on the trailer hitch. This is a class III hitch made by Draw Tite and its not designed for an FJ60 but it lines up with two of the bumper mount holes and two of the frame holes. I drilled 4 1/2" holes to align with the remaining mount holes on the hitch. I also used 2 fender washers on the fore and aft most bolts to space the hitch away from the frame and the factory rivets. We found a piece of scrap aluminum at the shop that worked to be the correct spacer for the under bumper mount and I reused the two tow hook bolts to mount into the bumper holes. Then I used the two carriage style bolts and lock plates on the aft most holes and used new hardware on the remaining holes.
When I first got my 60 a couple years ago I could hear a pump go to work every time I turned on the ignition and this I found perplexing because I knew it was stock mechanical. I also had a suspicious single red wire running out of a hack splice on the front of the fuse panel. Eventually I spent some time looking and found the red wire went to power a pump mounted on the inner passenger side frame rail. I unplugged the pump and noticed no difference in performance.
So on thursday I finally had some time to remove all these bits. I wasn't too thrilled to find that this hack job of a repair had cut the factor hard fuel line. I put in a piece of fuel hose for now and will replace with hard line eventually.
So why was this there? I am pretty sure that at some point in the past the original owner started having a hot start issue (because the carb cooling fan wasn't triggering on because the wire to the sensor was broken)....so the previous owner took the truck to some random garage and that guy said...well sure you have a vapor lock problem. I bet I can hack up your truck, put in $50 worth of crap components, charge you some money and not fix the problem. Needless to say at least I've removed all this crap now.
The main task of the day was to install my new Toyota muffler/tailpipe combo and that pieces is all in now. No real drama here other than I learned about the rubber isolator blocks because both of mine were toast. So I had to bolt the exhaust in place with a spacer until I can get the new proper cushion blocks in place.
The last project was putting on the trailer hitch. This is a class III hitch made by Draw Tite and its not designed for an FJ60 but it lines up with two of the bumper mount holes and two of the frame holes. I drilled 4 1/2" holes to align with the remaining mount holes on the hitch. I also used 2 fender washers on the fore and aft most bolts to space the hitch away from the frame and the factory rivets. We found a piece of scrap aluminum at the shop that worked to be the correct spacer for the under bumper mount and I reused the two tow hook bolts to mount into the bumper holes. Then I used the two carriage style bolts and lock plates on the aft most holes and used new hardware on the remaining holes.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Good to know you figured out that fuel pump. I saw that photo before and wondered what I was looking at.
Congrats on the new exhaust system!
Congrats on the new exhaust system!
- Thread starter
- #137
Side note. I found a good deal on a full 3fe with harness and computer and I’m thinking it will be the way to go to build a 2fe. The unit I found I out of an 80.....a 3fe is a 3fe right? No differences preventing the head swap? I know the later computer is different harness connector.
- Thread starter
- #138
As I slowly churn through maintenance and repairs and updates on this rig I suspect I need to do manifold gaskets next. Shot a quick cold idle video
The tick tick tick noise sounds like a leak and I can smell exhaust up there. So it won’t be a bad thing to pull, mill, and reseal the intake and exhaust. Currently watching for another set to have fixed up without taking my truck off the road to wait for machine shop work.
The tick tick tick noise sounds like a leak and I can smell exhaust up there. So it won’t be a bad thing to pull, mill, and reseal the intake and exhaust. Currently watching for another set to have fixed up without taking my truck off the road to wait for machine shop work.
- Thread starter
- #140
Sometimes when I go to the dealer to get parts my 60 gets nervous that I might be trading it in. As was the case today when I came out and couldn’t see my 60 as it had perfectly concealed itself behind a lamp pole.
