Build 1982 FJ60 - Project Clifford

[Sperl]

And a windshield washer fix! Of a sort...

The stock washer pump circuit is dead. I chased it all over the place and there's a short or cut somewhere deep behind the dash. All is not lost, however. In a fun and interesting '82 quirk Clifford has no rear or headlight washer equipment, but DOES have the wiring and connectors in the engine bay where that equipment would connect. As luck would have it the rear washer pump connector...is right next to the front washer pump connector!

That circuit tested good so I frankensteined a couple of connections between the rear pump connector and my new replacement pump (again retaining original connectors - @Spike Strip 's advice really stuck with me on that) . Tested it all, then installed everything back in place and got a very satisfying double stream of water when I hit the stalk button. One jet sprayed directly into my new 4Runner wiper arm, the other clear past the windshield and onto the roof.

I adjusted the nozzles and now have working windshield washers! It's another not-totally-necessary-and-kinda-silly-feeling-but-satisfying fix, and I'm happy with it. I dumped in some blue Gatorade and went for a drive to celebrate, merrily washing the heck out of my windshield the whole way.

A funny quirk is that because of how I wired it to the rear pump circuit (I assume), hitting the button doesn't also activate the front wipers. I have to turn on the wipers, then press the button to get the spray. I'll take it!

 

[CruiserTrash]

And a windshield washer fix! Of a sort...

The stock washer pump circuit is dead. I chased it all over the place and there's a short or cut somewhere deep behind the dash. All is not lost, however. In a fun and interesting '82 quirk Clifford has no rear or headlight washer equipment, but DOES have the wiring and connectors in the engine bay where that equipment would connect. As luck would have it the rear washer pump connector...is right next to the front washer pump connector!

That circuit tested good so I frankensteined a couple of connections between the rear pump connector and my new replacement pump (again retaining original connectors - @Spike Strip 's advice really stuck with me on that) . Tested it all, then installed everything back in place and got a very satisfying double stream of water when I hit the stalk button. One jet sprayed directly into my new 4Runner wiper arm, the other clear past the windshield and onto the roof.

I adjusted the nozzles and now have working windshield washers! It's another not-totally-necessary-and-kinda-silly-feeling-but-satisfying fix, and I'm happy with it. I dumped in some blue Gatorade and went for a drive to celebrate, merrily washing the heck out of my windshield the whole way.

A funny quirk is that because of how I wired it to the rear pump circuit (I assume), hitting the button doesn't also activate the front wipers. I have to turn on the wipers, then press the button to get the spray. I'll take it!
View attachment 4217541View attachment 4217542View attachment 4217543

Nice! Little victories are good. FWIW my 1982 doesn't automatically turn the wipers on when I hit the spray, I figured that was stock.

 

[kody472]

Nice! Little victories are good. FWIW my 1982 doesn't automatically turn the wipers on when I hit the spray, I figured that was stock.

My June of 87 doesn't do that either. Guess they're all like that.

 

[Spike Strip]

Jealous, - y'all have working rear wipers

 

[Sperl]

Nice! Little victories are good. FWIW my 1982 doesn't automatically turn the wipers on when I hit the spray, I figured that was stock.

My June of 87 doesn't do that either. Guess they're all like that.

Well then I guess we've all got that feature on our quirks list!

 

[Sperl]

I got into the cargo area body cavities today, and there was some straight-up archeology back there. Close to an inch of settled dirt and dust on each side, plus some other interesting finds. Here's what I got out:

I cleaned up both sides as best I could, and it looks pretty good. There are a couple of small rust spots, but nothing alarming. I'll probably try some awkward-angle rust converter to hit those spots, but the play here is a bit of fluid film into these cavities and let it creep down into the seams, correct?

I also replaced all the vapor separator lines and the overflow line to the filler neck. I'm planning to do all of these lines' underbody counterparts soon, after I burn a bit more fuel and the tank isn't as heavy and I can drop it a few inches to access the connections.

 

[Sperl]

One curious bit of drama while swapping those vapor separator lines. When I removed the first line from the separator (far right at the bottom, red arrow below) a few tablespoons of fuel came out. This has me scratching my head big time. It wasn't under significant pressure (not a squirt), but removing one side of one line definitely released something in the EVAP system. Fuel tank is about half full at the moment, by the way.

I'm studying the EVAP section of the emissions manual, and there has to something up with my EVAP system. There shouldn't be liquid up in those lines or the separator (I think), so according to the schematic below there has to be either some vacuum pulling it towards the charcoal canister or pressure pushing it up from tank...right?

So here are my questions for the audience:
- Is my statement about no liquid fuel in the EVAP system correct?
- Any theories on how it happened?
- What do the EVAP connections at the tank look like INSIDE the tank? I'd assume they are just ports at the top, but the fact that I had fuel in one makes me wonder if one or more aren't connected to a straw-type situation that terminates low in the tank. This wouldn't make much sense, but otherwise...how'd the fuel get up high enough to enter that line?

My next step is to work through EVAP component inspections per the manual. My theory is bad check valve (or maybe a clogged vent) in the charcoal canister, and/or maybe a bad safety valve in gas cap? I have gotten a woosh a couple of times when opening the cap, which tells me it's holding vacuum...right?

If anyone has any ideas or insight I would much appreciate it!

 

[Sperl]

I got into the EVAP system today. Fuel cap checked out okay, though I've seen a few posts saying it's worthwhile/cheap insurance to replace with new anyway so perhaps I'll add that to the parts list. Regardless, it doesn't seem like tank vacuum is the issue because...

I do seem to have a tank pressure issue. I pulled my charcoal canister and it big time failed inspection step 3, so I've got a clogged filter and/or stuck check valve. I initially couldn't get any air at all into the tank port, and even after some recommend fixes (cleaning per FSM step 4, compressed air into purge with other ports blocked, carb cleaner, etc.) I couldn't get more than a trickle into tank port even with higher pressure.

I also pulled off the outer vent control valve and it failed its inspection. The valve won't actuate at all, so I'm guessing it's long frozen. That's okay, I think, because I don't plan to reinstall it. The end of its circuit was capped when I installed my non-US carb with no float bowl connection, so it hasn't been doing anything anyway. One less part = more room for activities!

So all that said...my new theory is that tank pressure was building behind a non-functional charcoal canister (how/where...unknown). How that translated to liquid fuel up in the vapor separator is still a head scratcher.

I read up on replacement/aftermarket canister options and have an ACDelco 215-153 on the way. The plan is to install it with tank and purge hooked up normally, leave the vent as-is on top, omit the outer vent control circuit. I read a few posts about the potential for this top-vent canister to fill with liquid fuel that then gets sucked into the manifold via purge line, but it feels like a fringe case (max-filled tank, downhill driving, etc.). Has anyone actually experienced this...?

For now the original canister is reinstalled with purge and tank hoses switched (I read a few posts about this as well). After a couple of drives today I opened the tank cap and got no woosh, so this workaround seems to be working until I get the new canister installed.

 

[Spike Strip]

Are you aware there was a recall on the Gas Tanks due to leaks from over-pressurization ? You can call any (good) dealership with the VIN to make sure it's been done.

RECALL Thread 'FJ60 Gas Tank Recall Update: January 2020'

Jan 8, 2020

I figured it was worthwhile to provide factual information regarding the status of the FJ60 gas tank recall.

There are a lot of threads currently on MUD with incorrect information/out-dated information and facts.

Just want to provide a time-stamped update on parts availability and process for procuring.

Most of the ancillary parts are now, unfortunately, discontinued from Toyota. That’s just the name of the game at this point considering the last FJ60 manufactured was 33 years ago.

The following parts are still available:

Fuel sender/gasket/hardware
Some hoses
Fuel pickup...

• OGBeno
• fj60 gas tank parts recall toyota parts
• Replies: 177
• Forum: 60-Series Wagons

• 

 

[Sperl]

And speaking of test drives - today was the most fun yet I've had driving this thing. I finally got around to removing the extra, non-working electric fuel pump and man...it was like driving a different vehicle. Easier start, smoother idle, better acceleration, easier up to highway speed, more secondary action, etc. I'm not drag racing any time soon, but I think Clifford now legitimately accelerates better than my 4Runner.

Poor dude was just fuel starved, it seems. I probably should have intuited that the old pump was creating a restriction and I feel like a dummy for not removing it earlier, but I just didn't get around to it. Once removed I applied some non-specific pressure to the pump's supply side (read: I blew into the line) and it took quite a bit of effort to expel the rest of the fuel in the pump and air thereafter. Restriction definitely confirmed. Oops.

For what it's worth I think a well-intentioned PO installed this pump to go with the Weber carb. I randomly came across a product listing for an identical pump with a description to the effect of "if switching to a Weber carb install this pump to provide the additional fuel pressure it needs." It even said to install exactly where this one was.

On the topic of secondary - what kind of results do everyone's paperclip tests yield? This was mine (~10mm) today after fuel pump removal, and an improvement over what I've seen (typically 0-4mm). The red zip tie is my marker, btw - I lost two paperclips and gave up on that method. I'm curious what other people see...

Max travel on that linkage is 13-14mm on my carb. I suppose I might be getting all I can, or maybe there's some tuning to be done for additional improvement...?

 

[Sperl]

Are you aware there was a recall on the Gas Tanks due to leaks from over-pressurization ? You can call any (good) dealership with the VIN to make sure it's been done.

RECALL Thread 'FJ60 Gas Tank Recall Update: January 2020'

Jan 8, 2020

I figured it was worthwhile to provide factual information regarding the status of the FJ60 gas tank recall.

There are a lot of threads currently on MUD with incorrect information/out-dated information and facts.

Just want to provide a time-stamped update on parts availability and process for procuring.

Most of the ancillary parts are now, unfortunately, discontinued from Toyota. That’s just the name of the game at this point considering the last FJ60 manufactured was 33 years ago.

The following parts are still available:

Fuel sender/gasket/hardware
Some hoses
Fuel pickup...

• OGBeno
• fj60 gas tank parts recall toyota parts
• Replies: 177
• Forum: 60-Series Wagons

• 

Good call out, thanks. I did read about this and looked into it. It seems mine was done...maybe. Definitely maybe.

My local dealer couldn't give me specifics on when or where the work was done (they said their system doesn't give that data for that time period), only that it doesn't show an open/outstanding recall. I suppose that's kind of drawing a conclusion based on a null hypothesis or something, so I'm not sure what to make of it. FWIW the Carfax report on Clifford also shows no open recalls, though I've never put a ton of faith in Carfax. The same report shows only one service record (not a tank replacement, unfortunately) in 44 years, for example, so...

 

[Sperl]

Chronology is off again, but I installed a fusible link replacement kit from @CruiserTrash this week. This is a sweet piece of kit. Well designed and executed, super straightforward install, easy to understand instructions (even the theory section!). Highly recommended.

 

[klip]

You’re really getting after it! Great progress! Cruiser trash makes good quality stuff.

 

[Sperl]

I also sorted the PCV circuit this week. The EGR/PCV inlet gasket was funky (some kind of drippy homemade repair situation going on there) so it started with that, but the hose was dry rotting, the valve was gunky, etc. so I just went for it and swapped everything except the t-fitting. Everything cleaned up nicely and went back together easily.

It occurred to me while enjoying the improved drive today that the bad gasket probably created a vacuum leak, and that fixing it also improved engine performance along with removing the old fuel pump. I'll take it!

I still have a pretty serious exhaust leak in that area and probably will need to tackle the manifold gaskets sooner than later...

 

[Spike Strip]

You said your 'Purge Valve' was frozen or inoperative? They're NLA, but you can substitute a mechanical one that functions the same but works on vacuum, instead of an electrical VSV.

I also see the stock ones used on ebay. Same one was used on lots of 80s vintage Toyotas. There's also a New Toyota elec purge valve that will work, but you'll need to adapt the connector.

Standard Motor Parts CP112 - but there's a lot of various brands of the same thing.

 

[Sperl]

You said your 'Purge Valve' was frozen or inoperative? They're NLA, but you can substitute a mechanical one that functions the same but works on vacuum, instead of an electrical VSV.

I also see the stock ones used on ebay. Same one was used on lots of 80s vintage Toyotas. There's also a New Toyota elec purge valve that will work, but you'll need to adapt the connector.

Standard Motor Parts CP112 - but there's a lot of various brands of the same thing.


View attachment 4219150

My purge circuit is all set, but thanks! The stuck valve was in the outer vent control circuit (carb float bowl to charcoal canister), but n/a because that wasn’t connected anyway.

 

[Sperl]

Aftermarket charcoal canister is in. Lots of good into around here about that install and setup. One more thing off the list, big thumbs up as usual to the community on that one.

I swapped all of the lock cylinders over the last couple of days. Clifford came to me with one key that fit only the ignition, but the PO had sourced a complete set of matching cylinders and they were among the parts included in the sale. All of these swaps were straightforward, and gave me a good excuse to explore a few more parts of the truck - steering column, rear hatch innards, and front doors.

I pulled out a bit more remnant wiring from the steering column, and pulled off the rusting/disintegrating back door lock pad thing. A new one of those is on the way.

Pulling apart the front doors was fun and interesting. My door cards are in decent shape except for some aftermarket speaker hacking, so they'll go back on for now. @orikawa door panels have captured my attention in the meantime - Cliffords' interior body paint looks great and it would be cool to have a bit more of that on display.

While I had the doors apart I also sorted out some rough manual window action on each side. General cleanup and lubrication helped, but the weatherstrip/window run/guide channel part that goes up and around was out of whack on each door. I'm not sure whether they were installed incorrectly or were missing lower pieces or something, but neither door's run went down far enough at the front, so when the window was all the way down it fell out of the guide channel and would get jammed when you tried to put it up. Both rear edges had plenty of coverage, so I trimmed a piece from the rear and slotted it in the front. The windows both work great now; time will tell whether that's a long term solution.

Inside of door, looking at front edge of window in down position. The guide channel run did not extend down far enough so the glass slipped out when down...

But not anymore...!

 

[Sperl]

My steering has a good bit of play in it, but I have a bad drag link end that I *hope* is the primary culprit. Nothing upstream of that has meaningful play in it, though the PO blamed the steering column u-joint and there's a replacement in my parts box just in case.

When I got Clifford the messiest bit by far was the steering gearbox and the area around it, so I initially assumed it had a catastrophic leak and was to blame for the bad steering. I want to track down the source of all the gunk, so I spent some time and elbow grease cleaning up all the gunk. Side note - the Simple Green Automotive Max stuff is great for de-gunking, I'm a big fan. Clean pics below, didn't take any before pics.

I topped up the power steering reservoir and have driven a bit since with no obvious leaks. And the power steering is noticeably improved so...bullet dodged?

I'm going to do a full flush of the system and replace the crusty soft lines, then keep driving and keeping watching for leaks. And handle that drag link end when the parts arrive. I read a couple of steering gearbox rebuild threads and I wouldn't mind not doing that, to be honest. Fingers crossed!

Anything else to watch or consider on the steering front...?

 

[Sperl]

I got into the auto shop today and took care of a few diagnostic and baseline maintenance type things. I replaced the old plugs and did a compression test while they were out. Compression test was fun and interesting - I've never done one before, and I got to figure out how to use a remote start switch while I was at it.

I was pleasantly surprised by compression results - three cylinders at 130, one each at 122, 135, 142. I've read that 120+ is a good result on these engines, though I also read that a more-than-10% difference across any two is potentially problematic. More research needed on that front.

I also did a vacuum test and am getting about 13-14 inHg. I'm at 6,000 feet and have read that a 1 inHg drop per 1,000 feet of elevation is expected. So given those compression and vacuum numbers...it seems my engine is pretty healthy.

Reasonable conclusion? Am I missing anything or misinterpreting these results?

 

[Spike Strip]

Concur. Do a valve adj for the baseline, too. May pop your vacuum Hg up slightly if they're out of adjustment.