Build 1977 FJ40 - USA Spec Restoration - Father & Son Project - AKA "Blue"

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ceylonfj40nut said:
For the floor board tar on DS. Get some dry ice break it up cover the floor board area where tar is. Douse with some rubbing alcohol. Wait 20 minutes. Start chipping. It comes off super nicely. Very easy. We jus my did this on my wife’s 40.

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Beat me to it. Nice work.
 
Another one that takes more time (a lot more) on hardened undercoat is to brush on motor oil and give it a week or so, better when hot out. It often reduces that hard stuff to soft scraper friendly goo.

Your kids helping and smiling - priceless. Good job.
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
For the floor board tar on DS. Get some dry ice break it up cover the floor board area where tar is. Douse with some rubbing alcohol. Wait 20 minutes. Start chipping. It comes off super nicely. Very easy. We jus my did this on my wife’s 40.
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Wow, that is a cool idea! Thanks!!

MM
 
When I was 10 years old my parents went into business for themselves and the place we bought needed big renovations and we were on a crazy tight budget. My dad came up with some used commercial duty carpet for the building that was really nice, except for 1000 (almost literally) spots of chewing gum ground into it. Maybe from an arcade? Who knows, and yes, wierd. Anywhoo, he gave each of us 5 kids some gloves, a chunk of dry ice, and a hammer. We'd lay that ice on the gum for a few seconds, then whack it with the hammer and it would shatter right out. No idea where that man came up with such ideas but I consider myself lucky to have been around him.
 
DirtDauberGarage said:
Wow, that is a cool idea! Thanks!!

MM
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Not my idea. Thank Mud. Watch your kids wear protective gloves and safety goggles. Chips of dry ice or tar in the eyes is no fun. Neither is frost bite.
 
dogfishlake said:
When I was 10 years old my parents went into business for themselves and the place we bought needed big renovations and we were on a crazy tight budget. My dad came up with some used commercial duty carpet for the building that was really nice, except for 1000 (almost literally) spots of chewing gum ground into it. Maybe from an arcade? Who knows, and yes, wierd. Anywhoo, he gave each of us 5 kids some gloves, a chunk of dry ice, and a hammer. We'd lay that ice on the gum for a few seconds, then whack it with the hammer and it would shatter right out. No idea where that man came up with such ideas but I consider myself lucky to have been around him.
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I love it!!!!
 
I spent a couple hours scraping off more undercoating. I need to keep reminding myself that things always take longer then I think :rofl: or plan. Slow and steady wins the race :)! I also coated all the undercoating with motor oil yesterday hoping it would soften up. I couldn't tell the difference today, but it has only been 24 hours. When it was running, the motor slung oil all over the middle section under the front floorboards and once heated, that undercoating came off like butter... so we will see. I figured it couldn't hurt. If nothing else, I will help limit the surface rust until I can get this thing cleaned and primed.

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I have decided that I need to remove the brand new quarter panels and re-install them. The PO did a pretty sloppy job of installing them (see the pics). There is a LOT of surface rust on the back side, bad or no welds, misaligned panels. It looks like it took a slight hit or backed into something in the rear at some point. The rear body channel is bent in slightly on the passenger side. There is about a 1-1/2 inches gap between the channel and the quarter. There was little or no attempt to straighten it before installing the new quarter.

You can't really tell by pic, but the gas filler is welded on crooked :bang:

So much for saving a lot of time on a rust free tub :). My guess is that he threw the tub together quickly once he decided to sell it. My OCD won't let me move on until it is right.

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That’s a curve ball. Sorry to hear that. Hate PO clean up!!! Once you get panels dialed in, I suggest putting the sides back on, roof, and check tolerances on ambulance doors before the permanent weld.
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
That’s a curve ball. Sorry to hear that. Hate PO clean up!!! Once you get panels dialed in, I suggest putting the sides back on, roof, and check tolerances on ambulance doors before the permanent weld.
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Yes, Good call :)

MM
 
DirtDauberGarage said:
OK... finally got around to doing the compression test today. The numbers were not great, but I think it is going to be OK for now. As I have stated before, my goal is to get this thing on the road and enjoy it. A rebuild is in the future, but hopefully not sooner than later :).

Here are the numbers with the engine cold and the cylinders dry...

123, 119 123, 120, 122, 122

I did each cylinder three times and consistently got the same numbers. From all my research and past experience, I think these numbers will be a little higher with the valves adjusted and the motor hot.

All that being said, I am going to move forward with just replacing the gaskets, clutch, etc. Keeping my fingers crossed that this thing will run good once I get everything back together.

MM
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How did you do the test? My pleasure engine is on a stand. I pulled all the plugs and can’t get any type of reading.
 
JDNs78FJ40 said:
How did you do the test? My pleasure engine is on a stand. I pulled all the plugs and can’t get any type of reading.
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This is basically what I did (see the YouTube vid below)

- Make sure you have oil in the pan to make sure things are lucubrated
- Hook up the starter
- I used jumper cables and a short wire to engage the starter
- Hook up your compression gauge
- Let her rip...

You may want to do a wet test first if the engine has been sitting for a long time. Squirt a little bit of oil in the cylinders and turn it over by hand before you turn it over with the starter for the test. This will help make sure the rings are not stuck and you don't do any damage.

If you are getting zero for a reading, then I would bet...
- Your gauge might be bad.
- You have some sort of leak (gauge, hose, etc.)
- Or something is wrong with your valves (stuck, timing, etc...).
- If the timing is off, or valves are stuck open, then you might get a "zero" reading.

You should get something if everything is working properly (Even if it is a low reading)

PM me if you need more details or help. I would be glad to talk on the phone too if you need help.

Matthew


 
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DirtDauberGarage said:
This is basically what I did (see the link below)

- Make sure you have oil in the pan to make sure things are lucubrated
- Hook up the starter
- I used jumper cables and a short wire to engage the starter
- Hook up your compression gauge
- Let her rip...

You may want to do a wet test first if the engine has been sitting for a long time. Squirt a little bit of oil in the cylinders and turn it over by hand before you turn it over with the starter for the test. This will help make sure the rings are not stuck and you don't do any damage.

If you are getting zero for a reading, then I would bet...
- Your gauge might be bad.
- You have some sort of leak (gauge, hose, etc.)
- Or something is wrong with your valves (stuck, timing, etc...).
- If the timing is off, or valves are stuck open, they you might get a "zero" reading.

You should get something if everything is working properly (Even if it is a low reading)

PM me if you need more details or help. I would be glad to talk on the phone too if you need help.

Matthew


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Thank you.
 
More scraping today :)

I'm about half done. I am very encouraged by how well the floors look under the undercoating. I am not a fan of undercoating, but I have to say, it seems to have really done it's job! It is VERY thick in the wheel well areas and it takes a lot more effort and time to get it off.

I put on "Dirt Every Day" in the shop and got some inspiration while I worked. :)

Here are some of the latest pics...

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I won't need to roll the chassis out during this winter, so I rotated it the long way in my shop to give me more room to work on the tub.

I am thinking about building a bigger dolly for the tub so I can put it down, or upside down to work on it. I wish I had room (and the money) for a rotisserie, but I don't :)

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My plan originally was to NOT undercoat the bottom, but I am starting to rethink that? I think the FJ Co. undercoats theirs.

I am not going to do HARDCORE off-roading, I will keep it clean, I don't live in the north, and I will keep it in the garage when not driving it.

Undercoat????

NO undercoat???

Thoughts????
 
No .. for me. I like how it looks without. As I remember undercoating need to be re-done every 5-7 years ? and it coast extra money
In Atlanta and in garage .. she will be fine without :)

.. and you will spend a lot of time under her... ;)
 
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Since you are in the South and away from road chemicals, I wouldn’t undercoat it.

But, I am a guy who hates the collateral damage of nuts and bolts covered in that crap from previous owners. With the values of these things climbing, no one drives them in environments that dictate the need for it anyway. #ih8rhinolineronfj40s
 
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