Build 1977 FJ40 - USA Spec Restoration - Father & Son Project - AKA "Blue"

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I also picked up a vibratory tumbler from Harbor Freight last night. I went back and forth on the decisions to get this and decided to do it. It was on sale and I had a coupon so I got a crazy deal on it. I plan to buy some new bolts but a lot of the ones I have will clean up just fine. I also have a ton of little parts that I plan to use with it as well. I checked some bolts after running it for two hours and they looked pretty good. I going to let it run a couple more hours. I will do some before and after pics.

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I need to replace my front shock studs and hardware. Specter Off-Road has the whole thing for $43. That seems kind of high. I know I can get generic ones for $3 but I want to get ones made for a FJ40.

Does anyone know where to get some at a better price?

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Maybe Kurt @cruiseroutfit will know. I may need some for me ‘76 and ‘78.
 
I also picked up a vibratory tumbler from Harbor Freight last night. I went back and forth on the decisions to get this and decided to do it. It was on sale and I had a coupon so I got a crazy deal on it. I plan to buy some new bolts but a lot of the ones I have will clean up just fine. I also have a ton of little parts that I plan to use with it as well. I checked some bolts after running it for two hours and they looked pretty good. I going to let it run a couple more hours. I will do some before and after pics.

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I tried the tumbler method. It was okay. I had the best luck with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Like @Rainman would say, “grab a handful and go to town.” Instant gratification.
 
I tried the tumbler method. It was okay. I had the best luck with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Like @Rainman would say, “grab a handful and go to town.” Instant gratification.

I agree. Some of the nuts and bolts turned out great... others not so much.

I will take some after pics and post them tomorrow.

Some of the bolts I sanded with some 120 grit even after they came out of the tumbler.

It does cut my cleaning time down substantially. Over all, I am glad I got it :)
 
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- I got the tie rod end kit and break pads today.
- I cleaned up the calipers
- KBS painted everything
* I will install everything tomorrow...

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Step 1... Parts cleaner and a wire brush

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Step 2 - Degreaser and a green scotch bright pad...

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Step 3 - 120 grit sand paper and more wire brush

🤣 I forgot to take a pic here (sorry)

Step 4 - Clean again with the KBS Klean

Step 5 - KBS Blast

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I installed the bump stops...

Does anyone know if this is the correct orientation? (out side of the frame??) These were already off when I go the 40. I looked on line for about 30 mins and could not find a diagram, but saw several 40's with it installed with the over hang on the out side...

Anyone know for sure?

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OK... Here are a couple pieces of advice for anyone thinking about doing this...

1. Things will usually take twice as long as you think. It seems like every time I think, "It will take 1 hour to put on brake pads and calipers". NOPE... better plan on two. :)

2. Buy the biggest tap and die set you can afford. You will use it a lot. Craftsman had this one for $125 and a bigger one for $225. I wish I had bought the one for $225. There are several sizes that I don't have that I really need. I am going to order some individual ones and will probably end up spending more the $225 :rofl:

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- Put on the break pads and calipers
- Installed the tie rod ends and steering linkage. I need to tighten it down and put in the cotter pins, but it is pretty much ready.

* It took a lot longer than expected. I had to tap all the holes and the tie rod ends were a BEAST. Be sure to have a good vice or a good friend to help :)

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Tomorrow I will put on the rear break shoes. Hopefully the rest of the shocks will arrive and I will put those on as well. At that point, I will pretty much have a completed chassis.

I am going to wait to install all the break lines after I finish working on the engine. I don't want to damage them when I am climbing all over the frame replacing the clutch, water pump, etc.

Once I finish freshening up the engine, I plan to strip the bottom of the body, paint it, and install it on the frame. I will do the rest of the tub while it is on the frame. I will install all the break lines right before I put the tub on.

I think I am going to get a stainless steel pre bent kit.

 
I got the chassis done today :)

I went ahead and replaced all of the rear break drum cylinders. I bought NAPA brand. I read a few threads on here and guys have seemed to have good results with them. The local NAPA store had them in stock and they were $25 a piece and the shoes were $25 as well. I also bought a Raybestos hardware kit. I am impressed with the quality. My old ones were on there last leg so I went ahead and replaced them. I will do an update once on get in on the road with how well they perform.

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I just realized I need to move the front spring to behind the shoes :)

I will do that tomorrow...

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I am not sure if the old break cylinders are OEM Toyota. They will probably need to be rebuilt. If someone wants them, they can have them for free (Just pay shipping). PM me if you want them and I will send them your way :)

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I measured the drums and they have plenty of material left. I sanded, polished and cleaned them up before I installed them.

I have my laptop by my side the entire time I am working on this 40. I have IH8MUD, the Toyota service manual PDF, and Youtube helping me out along the way :)

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Here she is...

Starting on replacing all the seals and gaskets on the engine tomorrow :)

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My son and I cleaned the engine, gear box, and transfer case really good today. Scrubbed it for about 3 hours... every nook and cranny :)

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I thought I had a couple cans of GUNK, but I could not find them. I tried all these and the one that worked the best is the one on it's side. It is "orange de-greaser" by DEP. I got it at Home depot.

We also went through about 6-8 green scotch bright pads. :)

Here are a few "before" pics. I will post some "after" pics tomorrow.

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