Builds 1966 FJ40 Frame-Off Build (3rd Generation Owner) (1 Viewer)

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LOL, pretty darn close! Did you get yours running/timed right? I'm currently trying to figure out why the Weber won't idle on the idle circuit alone, quite a pain.
Yep. Had a bad condenser even though it was new and the choke wasn't working right.
 
Now that the PCV is hooked up correctly, I elected to delete the obnoxious hose coming out the top of the valve cover and just attach a small breather/filter I had. Much cleaner

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Sourced a new drive belt and O'Reilly's carries the Gates stuff. Here's the P/N if anyone is interested, it fit perfect
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The F135 also got it's first oil change today, the oil was dark but not bad.
 
Hey Rock, could you give me (a neophyte) a short explanation on losing the hose from the valve cover?
And I see you put longer studs on the outer manifold edges to get a nut on there- so odd that stock had no nut.
Looking great.
 
Hey Rock, could you give me (a neophyte) a short explanation on losing the hose from the valve cover?
And I see you put longer studs on the outer manifold edges to get a nut on there- so odd that stock had no nut.
Looking great.
@bb67tlc, the hose on the valve cover is fairly simple, now that I know how the engine is "breathing" so to speak. From what I understand, the valve cover breather is drawing fresh air into the top of the engine. It MUST be filtered for obvious reasons. Air flows down through the engine and then is sucked back out via the PCV valve on the oil filler neck. This air flow cuts down on condensation within the engine and also harmful gases/acids that build up inside the crankcase. That 90 degree fitting below the Weber air filter is just a way for "filtered" air to enter the engine. I liked the idea of eliminating the dorky looking hose though so the small vent breather will do the same thing.

Do you mean the studs/nuts on the head? The ones holding the intake and exhaust manifold in place? I believe the outer most fasteners should be studs and the others (6 inner ones) should be bolts. I'm not sure why Toyota did it that way and by not using studs throughout, it makes it very hard to hang and adjust the manifold gasket. I actually put 8 studs into the head hand tight, hung the gaskets and manifolds, tightened things a bit, then removed each stud individually and replaced them with bolts.
 
Is there another alternative location for the (a) PCV valve? The oil fill column on my (yet to be functioning or possibly never functioning) F engine doesn’t have a boss for such and I can’t find anything in the F-Engine (motor) Repair Manual ref PCV specifically or generally. The pics shown of the oil fill column are like mine, sans anything for mounting a PCV valve.

If it isn’t obvious, your build thread has been and continues to be of great value for myself (and others I assume). Thanks, Paul
 
@middlecalf, thanks, sometimes it's been a real challenge to keep the forward momentum up!
That's odd your oil filler doesn't have a PVC hookup. The 66' obviously does and I bought a totally junk, cracked block F145 (69' I think) the oil fill tube on it also had the PCV. Unfortunately, that filler was wrecked/bent or I'd send it your way.
 
So your oil fill tube is completely missing the welded PCV extension and the valve itself??

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Here’s what I have in my ‘63 FJ45. I have no knowledge of the history of this motor.
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But it does look like the drawing in the F-Engine FSM FWIW including the strap support but not the cap.
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Also, I’ve got this on the rear of the head above the manifolds. Not sure of purpose maybe PCV? But I think probably a vacuum port for the vacuum front drive system.
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3rd pic is the tee for the temp gauge and rear heater coolant flow.

Your fill looks stock, could very well be pre-PCV, I’m not knowledgeable enough to say with certainty
 
The port for your vacuum 4WD controls will be on the rear of the intake manifold itself and it will be pointing straight up. It’s a small 1/8” BSPT port
 
This this one is going to stay in my family, I could never sell it. After 44 years of ownership it will go to my son with the expectation he will pass it to my grandson someday after I’m long gone.
 
I believe I finally have the Weber 32/36 Air/Fuel ratio nailed down. I bit the bullet and ordered an AEM "X" digital wideband Air/Fuel gauge that uses the Bosch sensor. A little unorthodox, but I simply slid the sniffer of the tailpipe since I'm not going to drill a hole in the exhaust and permanently weld in a bung.

Here's a video, engine is warm and I run it up from idle to about 2k which I figure is a reasonable "cruise" considering the lack of overdrive.



Prior to this, It was running a tad rich, like 13.5 or so. I only changed the secondary idle jet down one size and tweaked the mixture screw less than 1/8 of a turn, it was close. In my opinion, this is as close to the optimal 14.7 ratio as I think I'm going to get this.
 
Made the drive yesterday from Snohomish, WA to Medford, OR to meet Jason. Left the house at 3am and the weather gave us a huge break being sunny and dry! Here’s one semi-blurry towing pic:
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Well, I made it home. Not without some drama though. I had the FJ40 Gods looking over me for sure. 2 hours from home after meeting @Rock40 earlier I’m the day, around 10:30pm last night, someone rear ended me on I-5 south. Completely buckled the end of the trailer, nudged me as I was pulling the hill. I don’t know how I didn’t do worse. No damage to the Landcruiser at all. Completely shocked. Shoved my bumper on the truck down and in around an 1 inch or so. Thankfully I got home.

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