Builds 1966 FJ40 Frame-Off Build (3rd Generation Owner) (2 Viewers)

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That was the one thing that was a little bit of work. @Rock40 (Ross) categorized everything on his end, and I did the same on my end, so he knew where everything went on the chassis, motor, etc and then I pre bagged everything that I’m doing now for when I got it back. We both suffer from OCD so it was Easy :)

Jason-
 
Yep, same here. I need to check with them that they will keep things separated in batches as they go thru the process. Thanks for the update!
 
A roughly 5 page list of where every single bolt and nut came from (along with sizes/lengths) also helped.... ;)
 
See what i mean @KFJ45. Ha, :)

Thanks J & R. Coolerman's FJ-40 Nut & Bolt List doesn't hurt either!! We're on the same page!

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Today was little to no progress. Real time job got in the way :). After work I messed with all the tools and did my tool box, clasps, lid and tools. I was able to piece together an original Large Tool Kit roll #63-6609 (I think that’s the #), period correct bottle jack, an Original 1965-1966 owners manual ($$$ :() and dealer pamphlet. My grandpa had the original F-engine and chassis manuals and I tossed in a nostalgic rope and a drink decanter. I couldn’t find the lock, but ran across this vintage one on EBay to secure the OEM lid. All came out perfect for me.

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I kind of made sure the ash tray went in tight so it won’t be used a lot and keep nice and in tact. Glove box lid done and new 3-speed shift plate in...

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So, the Weber 32/36 won't idle on the idle circuit because the F motor needs more air than it can get with the carb's speed screw in at a specified 1.5 turns. This also occurs on smaller engines, like my Nissan Z24, at high altitudes. There is a seemingly unorthodox way of fixing this, as described in the Pierce Manifolds video (14:00) and you actually drill a 1mm hole in the throttle plates opposite the progression holes. (I didn't find that adjusting the secondary throttle stop, with a series of feeler gauges) did much good, and I didn't try the synchronous conversion that they also offer.) I did one hole in the primary side (in tuning the Nissan 4-cylinder for altitude). A larger idle jet, or backing out the idle mix screw will get you more gas at idle. Before doing that, the motor didn't come back to a consistent ("crisp") idle speed depending on motor vacuum, relative to driving conditions, partially drawing from the main circuit, and/or it will make it harder to tune because you are working with the idle circuit, mix screw, and primary main jet all in the same equation.
 
Worked on the 4WD vaccum system this morning. I ran the cloth braided lines straight from the diaphragm to the transfer valve. The old hard lines were bent to hell and this probably never going to see dirt, these should work fine. :)

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Looking awesome Jason and you’re making great progress on it!! :D
 
Thanks Ross. Trying.... going well, I think so far.

Jason-
 
This afternoon, I finished tapping all the holes/zerts on rear and got hinges mounted for 1/2 doors and spare tire carrier. Also had time to hang the windshield hinges.....

Tomorrow’s game plan-
1. Mount Clutch & Brake Cylinders
2. Door Hinges (those should be fun)
3. And tackle the fuel tank and lines..

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This thing is beautiful. I am having difficulty wrapping my head around the hammer-toned items but I hope to warm up to them. :)
 
This thing is beautiful. I am having difficulty wrapping my head around the hammer-toned items but I hope to warm up to them. :)

Yeah- I wanted to do something different than the normal OEM builds, these items in person, just pop really nicely and are super glossy. The color is called in the poweder coating world "Gold Vein".

Jason-
 
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