Build 1964 FJ45 Short Bed Fixed Top Pickup Restoration
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To that end, here are a few (but not all) of the final details we are working through to fire this baby up…
- Power steering -
The angle of the power steering return fitting on the pump is not conducive to a clean routing of the reservoir return hose.
Here is how it points from the factory:
vs. how we want it to point:
We will use a factory 80 series return hose to connect to the reservoir:
We tried to unbraze the factory fitting to rework it, but only managed to mangle it from the heat. We’ve got another on the way and will have to resort to other means of modification.
The angle of the power steering return fitting on the pump is not conducive to a clean routing of the reservoir return hose.
Here is how it points from the factory:
vs. how we want it to point:
We will use a factory 80 series return hose to connect to the reservoir:
We tried to unbraze the factory fitting to rework it, but only managed to mangle it from the heat. We’ve got another on the way and will have to resort to other means of modification.
- Battery & Charging System -
Alternator. We’re using an 80 series alternator, but need to wire it into the 45/1FZ/Dakota Digital Frankensystem.
Our local alternator shop hooked us up with a pigtail and labeled the wires for us. Easy button.
Alternator. We’re using an 80 series alternator, but need to wire it into the 45/1FZ/Dakota Digital Frankensystem.
Our local alternator shop hooked us up with a pigtail and labeled the wires for us. Easy button.
Battery:
We are using a small lithium battery to get it out of the engine bay. After reviewing the pros & cons of our mounting options, we are mounting it under the truck.
The basic bracket that came with the battery did not offer any protection from gravel or small animals, so we reached out to our friends at Level 7 for one of their battery boxes:
I mentioned that we had a Braille battery and it was the same size as the Antigravity ATX-30 that the box is designed around. They scolded me, and said that in the hot rod/racing circles that use them, Braille’s are not considered to be the medical grade product that we were after. We want the OG ATX-30. (When we were shopping the first time, ATX-30’s were backordered and I was not hip to the insider info).
Not wanting Lockwood to be the laughing stock at the drag strip, we had them send the real deal along with the box:
We are using a small lithium battery to get it out of the engine bay. After reviewing the pros & cons of our mounting options, we are mounting it under the truck.
The basic bracket that came with the battery did not offer any protection from gravel or small animals, so we reached out to our friends at Level 7 for one of their battery boxes:
I mentioned that we had a Braille battery and it was the same size as the Antigravity ATX-30 that the box is designed around. They scolded me, and said that in the hot rod/racing circles that use them, Braille’s are not considered to be the medical grade product that we were after. We want the OG ATX-30. (When we were shopping the first time, ATX-30’s were backordered and I was not hip to the insider info).
Not wanting Lockwood to be the laughing stock at the drag strip, we had them send the real deal along with the box:
- Ignition System -
We’re using the factory 1FZ-F vac advance distributor, coil, and ignitor. I really had no idea how to integrate it with the Sniper or even into a vehicle as a standalone system.
I knew this would have to be done on the fly
We’re using the factory 1FZ-F vac advance distributor, coil, and ignitor. I really had no idea how to integrate it with the Sniper or even into a vehicle as a standalone system.
I knew this would have to be done on the fly
It’s a pretty simple system. No factory computer needed. It is not quite as standalone as a DUI or a 2F setup, but looks like we should be able to figure it out eventually.
@OGBeno hooked us up with the engine manual, which does have a nice schematic of the system:
The only thing left is to ID the wires on the igniter plug:
If anyone knows or has an EWD for a carb’d 1FZ truck, please post up. Otherwise we’re going to start guessing. Luckily we do have the original that we can blow up first…
@OGBeno hooked us up with the engine manual, which does have a nice schematic of the system:
The only thing left is to ID the wires on the igniter plug:
If anyone knows or has an EWD for a carb’d 1FZ truck, please post up. Otherwise we’re going to start guessing. Luckily we do have the original that we can blow up first…
Last but not least, we’re redoing all of Nolen’s hard work on the fuel tank.
We’ve started using the 80/100 series pump with our Sniper installs & LS swaps and find them to be reliably quiet. They last forever in the factory application and, while we can’t find any published flow rates, they seem to fuel LS3s just fine. So it seemed like a no brainer, especially with the pump being inside the cab.
We’ve started using the 80/100 series pump with our Sniper installs & LS swaps and find them to be reliably quiet. They last forever in the factory application and, while we can’t find any published flow rates, they seem to fuel LS3s just fine. So it seemed like a no brainer, especially with the pump being inside the cab.
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- Thread starter
- #1,069
@FJ60Cam really understands me.
This won’t be a glamorous post, but it’s these kinds of details that have to happen behind the scenes.
We’re going to start with the easy stuff, like the sender in the gas tank. We noticed that the gasket looked pretty hammered and some of the screws weren’t tightened down all the way.
We pulled it apart, and sure enough, the gasket is turning to plastic.
We prepped the metal flange for a new gasket, and pulled a fresh gasket and screws from the stash:
…when we find that the bolt pattern does not match a typical Toyota sender. Well it does, but the diameter is smaller:
We’re going to start with the easy stuff, like the sender in the gas tank. We noticed that the gasket looked pretty hammered and some of the screws weren’t tightened down all the way.
We pulled it apart, and sure enough, the gasket is turning to plastic.
We prepped the metal flange for a new gasket, and pulled a fresh gasket and screws from the stash:
…when we find that the bolt pattern does not match a typical Toyota sender. Well it does, but the diameter is smaller:
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I marked the rest of the hole as best I could with a paint pen, and then used a punch cut a clean hole:
Profit:
Profit:
Not so fast…
When we tried to install the sender we had a couple of screws that didn’t want to go in all the way. So we got out a tap and sacrificial screw and cleaned out the holes:
Now we’re done!
When we tried to install the sender we had a couple of screws that didn’t want to go in all the way. So we got out a tap and sacrificial screw and cleaned out the holes:
Now we’re done!
Next up, we’re reworking the intank pump.
These are super rare, real time posting, so bear with me.
First up, scribe the outline of the pump module gasket and carefully remove the paint to bare metal:
First up, scribe the outline of the pump module gasket and carefully remove the paint to bare metal:
Outline roughed in. We’ll clean this up a little more before calling it done.
This is where the ADHD kicks in and I switch over to the old fuel outlet on the side of the tank 
We don’t need it anymore, but right now we’re relying on a 100 year old piece of clear plastic-rubber tube with a bolt clamped in the end to keep the tank sealed shut. This is SOP for sealing it, but what made sense three years ago when we started does not match the level of finished product we are aiming for now.
We don’t need it anymore, but right now we’re relying on a 100 year old piece of clear plastic-rubber tube with a bolt clamped in the end to keep the tank sealed shut. This is SOP for sealing it, but what made sense three years ago when we started does not match the level of finished product we are aiming for now.
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First, chop off the old hose and get down to the tip of the fitting:
Knock it free with a punch and Toyota hammer:
Cut off the remains, and these are the parts you’re after:
Finished product. We will try to find a fuel-rated rubber cap, if not we will clamp a bolt into a new piece of EFI hose. Rubber vacuum caps will fail in short order.
Knock it free with a punch and Toyota hammer:
Cut off the remains, and these are the parts you’re after:
Finished product. We will try to find a fuel-rated rubber cap, if not we will clamp a bolt into a new piece of EFI hose. Rubber vacuum caps will fail in short order.
Looks like it’s begging to be brazed
Silicone caps hold up well 
I keep a stash for various vacuum & fuel ports -
www.stockcap.com
Tucker
I keep a stash for various vacuum & fuel ports -
Plastic Caps and Plastic Plugs - Stock and Custom | StockCap
StockCap is the Worldwide Leader in Product Protection manufacturing a complete line of plastic caps, plugs and covers as well as custom molded products.
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Tucker