Get rid of it.
12HT-swapped 1988 HJ60 in Melbourne
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- Thread starter
- #22
Always fun fixing little things the PO has done!
(I suspect there’s going to be quite a bit of that on the cards once I finally get around to pulling the dash and playing around with the electronics)
The little valve (flap) part is factory.. it allows water to drain. It was commonly blocked off with a glob of silicone exactly like in your photo as the valve is quite primitive and it was thought to be a potential source of water ingress in an extended water crossing.
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- #24
Hmm. Given that I have a snorkel, it seems like water coming in from the bottom during a water crossing might be a bigger risk than water ending up in the air box from the top?
(Not that I plan to do too many water crossings, extended or otherwise)
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You can buy a new one of those debris cans for a 70 Series, which is pretty much identical and has the same rubber valve. I transferred the rubber over to my original 60 Series can (which is slightly deeper). The idea is that it drains out and condensed water (note rust on base of filter box). If you're worried about it sucking water in, just put a square of tape over it for the water crossing.
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- #26
My front shocks are pretty rooted. Leaking or dented
Solution:
Unfortunately we’re moving house in a fortnight, so getting the air filter and sedimenter back on are a higher priority if I don’t want to have to move this thing on the back of a truck
Solution:
Unfortunately we’re moving house in a fortnight, so getting the air filter and sedimenter back on are a higher priority if I don’t want to have to move this thing on the back of a truck
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- #27
Silver lining of taking a day off work sick is I’ve had the chance to clean up some rust and start spraying.
Can’t breathe in paint if your nose is fully blocked!
Can’t breathe in paint if your nose is fully blocked!
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- #28
All cleaned up and re-assembled. Just gotta put the sedimenter back in and she’s ready to go
Hi mate, looks good. I like how you work through the vehicle....check out the slight coolant loss at the radiator visible in the pic. It could be that only the hose clamp needs a bit of a tighten....
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- #30
Slowly trying to go over everything and baseline/restore it. A long process, but very satisfying and educational
Good spot on the coolant. Noticed it after driving it last and have tightened the clamps, just need to wipe that up before I get the temps up again
Have also been having an issue with the temp needle not moving very far up the gauge. All the wiring seems okay, and the gauge responds as expected when it’s grounded with the appropriate resistors
I’ve got a replacement temp sender on the way, if that doesn’t fix it I might need to check the thermostat
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I would ditch that cheapo screw clamp/jubilee clip and use a proper factory clamp. If the hose leaks then it's a sign it needs replacing (though it looks new to me), or the radiator inlet is damaged.
There are quite good hose clamps / jubilee clips around, the cheap ones are horrible though.
Because my stock temp gauge acts rather unmotivated I fitted a mechanical / capillary instrument aswell - you can now clearly see when the thermostat is opening.
Try to get a price for a genuine Toyota thermostat. Some years ago I was asking at Supercheap and Repco (Australien/New Zealand popular parts retailers) and their price for an aftermarket Tridon thermostat was $60 while the genuine one was $28 !!! There are 82 and 88 degree options and I went with the 88°C. I found the 82° too cold in this climate - Melbourne would be quite similar to here if you are not planning to go outback all the time.
Because my stock temp gauge acts rather unmotivated I fitted a mechanical / capillary instrument aswell - you can now clearly see when the thermostat is opening.
Try to get a price for a genuine Toyota thermostat. Some years ago I was asking at Supercheap and Repco (Australien/New Zealand popular parts retailers) and their price for an aftermarket Tridon thermostat was $60 while the genuine one was $28 !!! There are 82 and 88 degree options and I went with the 88°C. I found the 82° too cold in this climate - Melbourne would be quite similar to here if you are not planning to go outback all the time.
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- #33
Sedimenter is back on. ALMOST managed to do it without getting diesel all over myself…
The interior and float were rinsed with clean diesel before re-installing just to make sure there was no gunk or water in there
Run out of time this evening, but tomorrow I’ll bleed the fuel system, start her up, and check for leaks
@AussieHJ6X Great job here, very thorough. Us 60 owners in the states love seeing what y'all Aussies (and NZers) are up to with your fancy diesels and other forbidden fruit!
I siliconed my little flap up a year or so ago.
I live in Vic high country and do tons of river crossings so I don't want any chance of water going through that dodgy flap.
Ive driven in plenty of massive rain storms and ive checked the airbox and never found water in there.
Even if a little condensation gets in ive also repainted my airbox so it'll be good for another 30 years before I need to repaint it.
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- #36
Good to know, cheers
I’ll have to let you know when I’m heading up to the high country if you feel like showing off a couple of the good trails
I cleaned and painted everything in my engine bay as well. I had zero intention of doing so as it took forever to do in my 40 series.
But I once started cleaning a few things i just kept going deeper and deeper, next minute half the car is in pieces.
Definitely worth it in the the end though. Makes it so much easier to spot stuff like oil leaks and work out what does what when its all clean. I replaced every serviceable part while I was in there as well.
100% recommend!
But I once started cleaning a few things i just kept going deeper and deeper, next minute half the car is in pieces.
Definitely worth it in the the end though. Makes it so much easier to spot stuff like oil leaks and work out what does what when its all clean. I replaced every serviceable part while I was in there as well.
100% recommend!
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- #38
Looks great. What’s your process for cleaning stuff while it’s still in the engine bay? Degreaser, scrub, and hose down?
Yeah pretty much. Just cans of degreaser and rags. If its easy to unbolt i just take the whole thing out and put it in my parts washer. Its just slow and hard work. But the result is worth it and easy to maintain once its clean.
- Thread starter
- #40
Any tips for getting the coolant temp sensor out? Mine is suspected faulty and needs to be replaced, but it’s not budging, even with a line wrench and liberal application of penetrant
Can’t get a socket onto it because of where the AC compressor is, how easy is that to remove?