do you know how tight you went on the nut that holds the adjustment screw? on my old 80 series sector shaft the adjustment screw had a little wiggle to it. staking tabs still in place so i know it was factory. did you crank the nut down snug so the adjustment screw wont turn?The next step is to reinstall the worm gear valve body and power piston assembly back into the housing. On the end of the power piston is a rubber o-ring under the Teflon ring. Your seal kit should come with a new o-ring and teflon ring to replace the old ones. Put the new o-ring on in the groove and place the teflon ring on top of the rubber o-ring.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Note: this photo is out of order. I actually replaced both of these rings before putting the ball bearings and tube back together.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Once you have the new rings in place you can install the assembly back into the housing. But first use a generous amount of PS fluid or ATF on the piston and Teflon ring to help it go back together more easily. Be careful when putting the piston back into the housing so you don't damage the teflon ring. If you damage the Teflon it will have to be replaced. The piston will get to this point fairly easily. But notice the Teflon ring isn't past the last edge in the housing. You need to be most careful here. This took me a little time to get the Teflon past the edge in the housing without damage. The new rubber o-ring is thicker than the old one that came out since it hasn't been squished into the housing for a couple hundred thousand miles and this makes it more difficult for the teflon to move past the edge.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
I found that with some more PS fluid and slowly twisting the piston clockwise I could get the teflon ring past the edge without damage. Once you have the piston in all the way, reinstall the 4 bolts that hold the assembly to the housing.
Now reinstall the power piston plunger and guide. I forgot to take photo of the pieces of the plunger and guide. There are 4 pieces and an o-ring on the plunger. The piece that goes in first is a T shaped cylinder with the male end in first. Then the pin goes next into the female end of the cylinder you just put in. Next is a spring. Last is the plunger with the 10mm allen wrench hole. There is an o-ring on this plunger that should be replaced.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Now it's time to install the sector shaft. If you're upgrading to the 105 shaft the new sector shaft probably didn't have the adjustment screw and nut in place. You can try to remove the old ones from the original shaft but I was not successful. The original nut is a stake nut and the stake flanges need to get pushed back so the nut can be removed. Even with a chisel I couldn't get the nut to spin after pushing the stake tabs back in.
Steering box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
I got a new nut and adjustment screw. I suggest getting a new one of both of these when you purchase your parts in the beginning. It's probably not the best move to reuse the original stake nut anyway.
Steering box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
This is where you'll need a SST to tighten the nut. I made my own SST by drilling out a 14mm nut so the adjustment screw could pass through, then welding the nut to an old socket. I little dremel work to shape the weld so the SST could have as much purchase on the nut needing to be tightened.
Steering box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Steering box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
since the new nut did not have staking tabs, I used blue Loctite on the threads and installed the nut and adjustment screw into the new 105 shaft.
Steering box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Steering box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Before inserting the new sector shaft, reinstall the new o-ring, teflon ring, metal ring, snap ring and seal into the end of the housing. The photo is the old ones as they were removed during disassembly.
Steering box FZJ80 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
The FSM says some moly grease should be applied the to teeth on the sector shaft before installing it. Center the teeth on the power piston, then insert the sector shaft lining up the teeth.
Steering box by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
105 Sector Shaft upgrade - Steering box rebuild
- Thread starter Box Rocket
- Start date
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34 ft lb
Not sure if anyone else has posted but why not!
Toyota 45411-60360 - ARM, PITMAN
Toyota 44111-60060 - SHAFT, CROSS
Toyota 04445-60050 - GASKET KIT, POWER STEERING GEAR (FOR RECIRCULATING BALL)
Toyota 45357-60030 - SCREW, CROSS SHAFT ADJUSTING;SCREW, SECTOR SHAFT ADJUSTING
Toyota 44142-60020 - NUT, LOCK
Toyota 94511-02200 - WASHER
Toyota 90170-22058 - NUT
Toyota 45411-60360 - ARM, PITMAN
Toyota 44111-60060 - SHAFT, CROSS
Toyota 04445-60050 - GASKET KIT, POWER STEERING GEAR (FOR RECIRCULATING BALL)
Toyota 45357-60030 - SCREW, CROSS SHAFT ADJUSTING;SCREW, SECTOR SHAFT ADJUSTING
Toyota 44142-60020 - NUT, LOCK
Toyota 94511-02200 - WASHER
Toyota 90170-22058 - NUT
regarding "since the new nut did not have staking tabs, I used blue Loctite on the threads and installed the nut and adjustment screw into the new 105 shaft."The next step is to reinstall the worm gear valve body and power piston assembly back into the housing. On the end of the power piston is a rubber o-ring under the Teflon ring. Your seal kit should come with a new o-ring and teflon ring to replace the old ones. Put the new o-ring on in the groove and place the teflon ring on top of the rubber o-ring.
Note: this photo is out of order. I actually replaced both of these rings before putting the ball bearings and tube back together.
Once you have the new rings in place you can install the assembly back into the housing. But first use a generous amount of PS fluid or ATF on the piston and Teflon ring to help it go back together more easily. Be careful when putting the piston back into the housing so you don't damage the teflon ring. If you damage the Teflon it will have to be replaced. The piston will get to this point fairly easily. But notice the Teflon ring isn't past the last edge in the housing. You need to be most careful here. This took me a little time to get the Teflon past the edge in the housing without damage. The new rubber o-ring is thicker than the old one that came out since it hasn't been squished into the housing for a couple hundred thousand miles and this makes it more difficult for the teflon to move past the edge.
I found that with some more PS fluid and slowly twisting the piston clockwise I could get the teflon ring past the edge without damage. Once you have the piston in all the way, reinstall the 4 bolts that hold the assembly to the housing.
Now reinstall the power piston plunger and guide. I forgot to take photo of the pieces of the plunger and guide. There are 4 pieces and an o-ring on the plunger. The piece that goes in first is a T shaped cylinder with the male end in first. Then the pin goes next into the female end of the cylinder you just put in. Next is a spring. Last is the plunger with the 10mm allen wrench hole. There is an o-ring on this plunger that should be replaced.
Now it's time to install the sector shaft. If you're upgrading to the 105 shaft the new sector shaft probably didn't have the adjustment screw and nut in place. You can try to remove the old ones from the original shaft but I was not successful. The original nut is a stake nut and the stake flanges need to get pushed back so the nut can be removed. Even with a chisel I couldn't get the nut to spin after pushing the stake tabs back in.
I got a new nut and adjustment screw. I suggest getting a new one of both of these when you purchase your parts in the beginning. It's probably not the best move to reuse the original stake nut anyway.
This is where you'll need a SST to tighten the nut. I made my own SST by drilling out a 14mm nut so the adjustment screw could pass through, then welding the nut to an old socket. I little dremel work to shape the weld so the SST could have as much purchase on the nut needing to be tightened.
since the new nut did not have staking tabs, I used blue Loctite on the threads and installed the nut and adjustment screw into the new 105 shaft.
Before inserting the new sector shaft, reinstall the new o-ring, teflon ring, metal ring, snap ring and seal into the end of the housing. The photo is the old ones as they were removed during disassembly.
The FSM says some moly grease should be applied the to teeth on the sector shaft before installing it. Center the teeth on the power piston, then insert the sector shaft lining up the teeth.
is this nut going to bottom out flush on the new shaft? have all my items purchased to do this and just doing the mental prep. Also are you selling that fancy SST tool?!?!! hah.
Great thread. Kind of a funky question....but will someone measure one of the recirculating ball's if possible with a micrometer? I did the rebuild a couple months back, and was dead certain all the balls stayed in one spot, before going back in, but after cleaning shop I recently found one that looks VERY similar. Not super time sensitive, just thought I'd put in a request if someone is doing the upgrade
- Thread starter
- #88
@donnerpassing Someone else posted in the thread that the balls are 5.5mm. Common size for bearings.
@haganLX45096 IIRC yes the nut did bottom out. Sorry, no dice on the SST. lol.
Figured since I was replying here anyway I'd give an update. Coming up on 5 years since I rebuilt my steering box for this thread and it is still working great and I've had zero leaks. Happy about that since it was my first attempt.
Box rocket or anyone got a solution? Plug bolt just spinning, doesn't look like anybody's been in here before or don't feel like I stripped anything out when starting to loosen this.
Stuck plug bolt
Stuck plug bolt
I just recently went through this.
Spray some PB blaster around the plug. Then pry upward on the plug threads with a small screwdriver while turning at the same time. I had just enough dried grease and corrosion around the Power piston and the o-ring that it prevented the spring from popping the cap out.
Awesome thanks man will give it a go tomorrow. The way you're describing it sounds exactly like what I'm fighting where it just doesn't want to free itself
worked like a charm, got it off before work this AM. Small flathead to the backside of plug threads with pressure and some patience and out she came.
Any suggestions on a removing the nut and adjustment screw from the new 105 shaft? No idea how this happened but the new adjustment screw got marred and is not spinning freely in the cover. I filed down the screw to get it off and am going to try to reinstall everything... I might talk to the dealership but won't hold me breath for help. I used the Loctite and tried soaking in some acetone to dissolve it.
What became a fairly simple rebuild that I followed videos and this thread to the T has really become a cluster f. Pulling everything apart to save this i also tore the teflon rung around the piston.
What became a fairly simple rebuild that I followed videos and this thread to the T has really become a cluster f. Pulling everything apart to save this i also tore the teflon rung around the piston.
If you used blue Loctite (242/243) you need to use Toluene to dissolve it. Mild heat (from a heat gun) will help.
@haganLX45096 , you really should download the FSM and follow the rebuild instructions there rather than rely on videos and this thread. There is some missing details or misinformation that may have thrown you off.
The adjusting screw should be set with a specific amount of thrust clearance measured by a dial indicator. The stake nut is set with a chisel after that clearance is obtained. That stake nut was not bottomed out in the boxes I have serviced. I personally would not use loctite in this situation because of the risk of having it flow down to the base of the adjusting screw and impeading it's movement.
Shoulda coulda woulda. Lesson learned
I'm reassembling a 1996 steering box and updating to the 105 sector shaft. I'm at final reinstall and I'm continually ripping the Teflon seal that covers the rubber seal on the main position.
Tried all solutions, turning it clock wise slowly.... Clamping with a ring clamp, freezing it. Still continue to rip the Teflon piece. Any help would be welcomed.
I have a video showing my methods... Good part about halfway through. I have all the right part numbers. Just completely at a loss
Using
9030173002
9056277002
Tried all solutions, turning it clock wise slowly.... Clamping with a ring clamp, freezing it. Still continue to rip the Teflon piece. Any help would be welcomed.
I have a video showing my methods... Good part about halfway through. I have all the right part numbers. Just completely at a loss
Using
9030173002
9056277002
Last edited:
Take it completely apart again and use some emery cloth to take the edge off of that bore. It was stupid sharp on mine. Ripped my glove when I was cleaning/blasting my box. No reason for it to stay that way. Just bevel it slightly and you should be gtg. Then take it slow getting the ring past it on re-assembly.
Awesome will give that a try this evening
That's what I was thinking, watching the video. I have no personal experience inside one of these, but at least from the cheap seats, there doesn't seem to be any reason you can't blunt that edge a bit. It shaved that seal like a razor - there's no need for it to be sharp that I can see.