100 series A/C bypass belt?

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This should be a very temporary fix. The limited belt wrap around the fan pulley might not provide enough friction to turn the fan when it locks and/or at high rpm.
 
This should be a very temporary fix. The limited belt wrap around the fan pulley might not provide enough friction to turn the fan when it locks and/or at high rpm.
Most definitely a temporary fix for me, however from my observations the belt contact is sufficient to turn the fan even with the clutch locked at idle and also revving it up to 2k with the clutch engaged. I am pretty confident it will hold up and no slipping would occur under normal conditions. this will get me by for now.
 
For a science experiment, take a paint pen and mark the fan pulley on the surface it contacts the belt. I think the most stress would be when the transmission downshifts and the RPM's hit 4-5k+.
 
Sorry you had so much trouble. Interesting to see which belt and how routed without AC compressor. Thanks for sharing.

Often time understanding the actual design of components, helps during disable. To this end, I find parts schematic very helpful. www.partsouq.com is one very good sources for schematics.

Personally, I don't even pull off magnet clutch assy, insitu. It's a PITA, to get my snap ring tool into place. So I just pull compressor. It's also PITA to get proper number of shims in, to get correct gap, insitu!

Don't take this personally. I just want all who come looking at this thread, to have good understanding:

1) "water pump/fan pulley " Is actually the pulley of the fan bracket. Water pump is run on timing belt. We don't need fan (AKA serp, drive) belt to run water pump. Fan belt, is used to run Vane pump, Alternator, AC compressor and Fan Clutch/fan blade.

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Where your part broke off the AC compressors, is not separation point. The screws, must be removed from plate, as single component. Which you can replace, if you'd like to rebuild your compressor. You'd also want the seal kit. Which this type of rebuild is done, on the bench.
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Typically the below parts are what we'd replace, unless compressor has a leak.
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Bearing is in pulley.
Shims to set gap.
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Thanks for sharing those part numbers 2001LC I had no idea the front of the compressor was available separately, I might end up rebuilding my compressor later down the road just to have a spare, good parts are hard to come by nowadays, especially when it comes to these vehicles original equipment.
You're right about the fan bracket not driving the water pump, it completely slipped my mind that it's driven by the timing belt.
Partsouq is an awesome resource, I order parts from there all the time.
 
62.5" or 6pk1580-1590

I looked into this a ways back as I don't ever use the a/c, can't stand forced air. The tundra 4.7 was offered without a/c. Ran an idler in place of the compressor and the belt sizes were the same.

There are reports on Tundra forums with successful a/c deletes and no ill effects of the reduce belt wrap.
Do you have any additional information on this? I am removing my complete A/C system and would like to do it correctly. Thanks in advance
 
I might replace the belt with a shorter one posted, however does anyone have the OEM Toyota part number for the bracket and pull that is supposed to be there on the non av 2uv-fe? I cant find it
 
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