100 Rear Body Work / Rust Damage Question

[potatoguy]

First time posting here! I have a '98 LX470 that's been in my family since new - I was born in '96 so I've literally grown up in this truck. It's still running strong, but I let the rust get away from me in the back and now I'm paying for it.

I need to repair rust on both rear quarters behind the bumper cover. Driver's side has a small hole, passenger side is pretty much gone, exposing the rear AC unit (see pics). The good news is it's all hidden behind the bumper, so it doesn't need to be show-quality.

My question: Should I take this to a body shop or just find a local welder to patch it with scrap metal? One body shop quoted me $6-7k for full quarter panel replacement, which seems excessive since 90% of both panels are still solid.

I found the OEM part number for one of the sides (6016160B00) and new panels are ~$1,400 each from Toyota, but again - most of the panel is fine, it's just these bottom sections that rusted through.

I'd rather not replace the whole panel though because most of it is fine - the rust only got to these areas at the bottom.

What have others done for similar repair? Cut and weld patch panels? Full replacement? Any recommendations for shops in central Indiana that specialize in this kind of work?


Thanks in advance - really want to keep this truck going for another 28 years!

 

[2001LC]

Two concerns with 1/4 tip rust:

• Exhaust fumes entering cabin. Mostly passage side.
• Water/snow and salt. Entering 1/4 cavity. Wire housing blocks, most on driver side. Not designed to be water tight.

1. Body shop $5 -$6K. Most will only do with replacement 1/4 panel. Very likely need inner also. New "May" not be available. Long term solution.
2. Expert customer tin man. Recreate outer and inner rusty areas or missing. Long term solution.
3. Fiber glass patch work with POR-metal prep (acid) and POR-15 paint treatment. Long term solution.
4. Faber glass patch, just sealing area. Buys a few years.
5. Fill with Great-Stuff window foam. Buy's a few years.

POR-14 silver, instead of fiber glass resin. Work very well. Dust greaser, derust, Por-Metal (acid bath), scuffing painted surface a must, before POR-15 paint and fiber glass mats & cloth.

POR-15 epoxy putty to create strong leading edge

 

[potatoguy]

Thank you! I was thinking some kind of welding was my only alternative to full panel replacement, but will give your #3 a shot.

Fiber glass patch work with POR-metal prep (acid) and POR-15 paint treatment. Long term solution.

 

[SteveH]

Your fiberglass work will last a lot longer if you slather the inside and outside with wheel bearing grease. Nothing entombed in grease can rust further. Grease what's hidden by the bumper or mud flap - no one will ever see it.

 

[2001LC]

3M body cavity wax, with 3 foot straw. Work well also. Also easy to apply deep inside, once 1/4 tip closed up.

PB