Fluid level is good. Put in 6 qts initially, let it sit over night, topped it off the next day and after the first crank the fluid level went down and we topped it off again. It has stayed at the same level, right at the top of the cold marker on the dipstick.
Well fellas, the saga continues.
Got the 1kz running last week, engine sounds great, still Idles weird at low RPM but evens out after hitting the idle up button. Im thinking it could be a leak in the fuel filter housing. While we were priming the fuel system I noticed some bubbles coming out of...
Current condition of the 1KZ!
Recently got the Throttle Valve cable handled, dropping the valve body was interesting. The one bolt that holds the TV cable and wire harness brackets on the top of the transmission was just about the biggest SOB bolt Ive ever delt with. We ended up having to...
Got around to taking the case assembly apart and everything else off the old block. Cleaned and mounted the case assembly back up. I've never worked with RTV, but we had it barely squeezing out around all the exposed edges. Forgot to take close ups.
The ARP studs are a grand, so thats not in the cards any time soon.
To safely push more power on this engine I need..
-Front mount intercooler
-High flow airbox/3" exhaust
-Modern turbo
-ARP studs
-UniChip and tune
-Valve body upgrade
Those are definitely on the list, but not this list.
Got the old block out last week and the new one came this week. OEM gasket kit is coming in wednesday. Gonna get new engine mounts for it too.
Turbo is rebuilt, that was actually a whole lot easier than expected.
We ended up pulling my buddies engine to replace the rear main seal. Thats also...
Ended up ordering this short block, once it comes in Im going to swap all the do-dads over from the old one. That seemed like the quickest way to get the back on the road. Ill probably run into a slew of things that need to be ordered and replaced in the process.
Wondering if anyones ever gone...
After reading up on it, that chunk out of the compressor wheel is actually a factory balancing technique. Looking at the huge dent on the piston, it was definitely the tip of a glow plug that went in there.
Im in the middle of doing a head swap on a 1KZ as well as a turbo rebuild.
While we were taking the turbo apart we found part of the compressor wheel broke off and got eaten up by cylinder #3. Theres groves in the walls and a chunk on the top of the piston.
Wondering if anyone has some advice...
So im taking apart my turbo and the compressor wheel has a solid little chunk out of it that I dont think is factory. Looking at this replacement wheel, what do you guys think? Any balance issues that might come from this? Also they sell a "6x6" fin wheel, anyone think there would be any...