Peter's Moose List of Fix Its

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Peters Moose

Peters Moose

10 Year
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Threads
14
Messages
202
Location
Pacific NW
Thought I would start a thread on the work I do on my 55. She's already in great shape so just little stuff to do.
Steering or updating the brakes will be first. In the meantime, I just pulled the old struts off the front and going with basic Monroe Monro-Matic shocks from O'rielys Auto Parts. About 24 bucks each. Also detailing in between busting the old struts out. Working in the engine bay first. under the hood is really looking better. The rest of the inside is pretty good already-So just a little touch of compound/wax.

petersmoose002.webp


petersmoose001.webp
 
He he he... fixing the little stuff he says... THAT's how it all starts buddy. More pics will win over our affections of the object of your pride. Looks like a nice one.

Those are shocks, not struts... but I'm sure someone would point that out eventually so I may as well be the one. ;) ( just messing with ya).
 
Hey thanks on the messages. Yeah I will go with shocks! Somewhere way back when, I was told in no uncertain terms those are struts. Well that confused me good. And for good reason! (That or it's all the fog in N-Central Cali)
Yeah you got it, '69. Those turn signals are freaking awesome. I just bought one being sold by itself and now I have a great back up.
The right front bolts were seized something fierce. Had to use a mini hacksaw to hand cut it 1/2 thru then hammered the rest of the way. Going with stock(ish) all around till I make a full decision on wheels-small lift ect...

Rears next!

108_0296.webp
 
Heck, maybe they are struts... I thought struts were somehow different, although being a Nor Cal lifer, I do have a bit of fog (or is that smoke) in the brain.

Note... you should always question what someone named 'bigsal' tells you on the internet.
 
bigsal said:
Heck, maybe they are struts... I thought struts were somehow different, although being a Nor Cal lifer, I do have a bit of fog (or is that smoke) in the brain.

Note... you should always question what someone named 'bigsal' tells you on the internet.
Click to expand...

Hey Bigsal I thought everything on the net is all true!! You mean it's not?!?! :crybaby:

Funny but once I get the rear shocks in, I already have my next job-Re-build the turn signal assembly on the column and repair or replace the stock radio. (with another old but functioning stock Toy radio) I'm also going with a Toy Mini brake/axel swap so getting things together on that.
I also replaced the wiper blades with 15" refills, using the old metal shims in the new rubber.
Thanks again everybody for the great comments.
 
Peters Moose said:
Hey thanks on the messages. Yeah I will go with shocks! Somewhere way back when, I was told in no uncertain terms those are struts. Well that confused me good. And for good reason! (That or it's all the fog in N-Central Cali)
Yeah you got it, '69. Those turn signals are freaking awesome. I just bought one being sold by itself and now I have a great back up.
The right front bolts were seized something fierce. Had to use a mini hacksaw to hand cut it 1/2 thru then hammered the rest of the way. Going with stock(ish) all around till I make a full decision on wheels-small lift ect...

Rears next!
Click to expand...

you still in cencal? I'm up in North Fork...:cheers:
 
Question the front Toy mini axle swap

Howdy ladies and Gents,

Question on the front axle swap on my 1969 55 Moose.

Acording to fourwheeler.com, the splines are completly different on the 79-85 axle vs. the early cruisers... heres a link with photo.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1...-brake-swap-and-axle-upgrade/photo-gallery/#8

So what is the choice here?? I can't seem to find a fix for this issue going thru old threads or the article.
Thanks for any help!!

Peter
 
Are you buying a mini truck axle? If so, it should have the birfields you need. I believe they are the same on the minis as they are on 60 series and newer 40's. So, another option would be a newer land cruiser axle. But, I think either way you'll have to make a few minor modifications.
 
any 40 - 55 series front axle later than a 76 will bolt right in(except for maybe diff flanges- those will need to be swapped for multi pattern flanges or drilled to match the driveshaft; if flanges swapped, then new crush sleeves and seals and stake nuts will be needed for a fine spline diff, just new seals and stake nuts for the earlier coarse spline diff...)post 76 will be front disk brakes. after 1980, the birfs/knuckles changed to match the 60 series birfs and knucks, which are stronger and allow for aftermarket hi-steer arms(best would be 1980-84 fj40 axle(s)) a 70 series front axle is also the same track width/mounting width as 40/55s, but there may be some brackets needing removed/moved. these can come with or without factory selectable lockers- but will cost alot more.....
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
these can come with or without factory selectable lockers- but will cost alot more.....
Click to expand...

With a heavy emphasis on "A LOT" and caveats to front diff size/locker side for even a moderately lifted Pig.

If the 70 axles are to be explored, I found a resource for the earlier 9.5" front and rear unlocked with 3.73s OR same source has the holy grail, being later 8"/9.5" cable locked, of the same flavor.
 
Peters Moose said:
Thought I would start a thread on the work I do on my 55. She's already in great shape so just little stuff to do. Steering or updating the brakes will be first. In the meantime, I just pulled the old struts off the front and going with basic Monroe Monro-Matic shocks from O'rielys Auto Parts. About 24 bucks each. Also detailing in between busting the old struts out. Working in the engine bay first. under the hood is really looking better. The rest of the inside is pretty good already-So just a little touch of compound/wax.
Click to expand...

Nice Pig/Moose!

Where did you find her?
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
any 40 - 55 series front axle later than a 76 will bolt right in(except for maybe diff flanges- those will need to be swapped for multi pattern flanges or drilled to match the driveshaft; if flanges swapped, then new crush sleeves and seals and stake nuts will be needed for a fine spline diff, just new seals and stake nuts for the earlier coarse spline diff...)post 76 will be front disk brakes. after 1980, the birfs/knuckles changed to match the 60 series birfs and knucks, which are stronger and allow for aftermarket hi-steer arms(best would be 1980-84 fj40 axle(s)) a 70 series front axle is also the same track width/mounting width as 40/55s, but there may be some brackets needing removed/moved. these can come with or without factory selectable lockers- but will cost alot more.....
Click to expand...
Hey all thanks for the replys!
I don't really have a way to drill into the drive shaft... Machine shop nearby though so could be possible. But mixing the 60 and 70 series axle is an interesting idea. Never thought of that as an option... Will look into that more. Still struggling with the steering swap, but should have it done by the end of the year.
Nice Pig/Moose!

Where did you find her?
Click to expand...
ah in Southern Cali... https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/768741-my-girl-gone-new-owner.html

DelancyQuote:
Originally Posted by LAMBCRUSHER [URL="http://forumcdn.ih8mud.com/images/buttons/viewpost.gif"][URL="http://forumcdn.ih8mud.com/images/buttons/viewpost.gif"][/URL][/URL]
these can come with or without factory selectable lockers- but will cost alot more.....

With a heavy emphasis on "A LOT" and caveats to front diff size/locker side for even a moderately lifted Pig.


If the 70 axles are to be explored, I found a resource for the earlier 9.5" front and rear unlocked with 3.73s OR same source has the holy grail, being later 8"/9.5" cable locked, of the same flavor.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks for the info too. Will re-think my approach as I really have disc brakes as a goal with a updated 10mm set up and new brake master/booster. But this looks like a bigger undertaking than I originally researched here on the forum.

The struts I put in front are just the Monroe "monro-matic" series. About 24 bucks. BUT I just found a nice pair of Explorer Pro's E1000 for the rear that look great. And just 34 bucks on Amazon.

Also re-working the steering column to fix a little stray horn sound. Looking good!
 
Last edited:
To clarify, don't mix 60 and 70 series axles. The earlier fj55/fj40 axles without disks can be converted to disks using later fj60 knuckle and birfield parts> effectively mixing parts of a 40/55 and a 60 series> 60 axles are wider tha 40/55; if you do not want wider, but want disks, swap knuckles and birfs, hubs and brake parts from a 60 axle to the 40/55 axle. if you can find/afford a 70 series axles, they are the same track as the 40/55, but have the upgrayded components already included. I hope that clears it up a bit more for you...mix 60 series parts into a 40/55 axle, or source 70 axles just as they are;)
 
:steer: And the steering signal / horn setup. Going to fix the raw button that is triggering the horn when turning right. Getting a small wheel puller as I plan to keep the wheel off when not being driven. (That and 2 of the wheels on blocks) Too many LC's in the Bay Area getting stolen. :mad:

steer02.webp


steer01.webp
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
To clarify, don't mix 60 and 70 series axles. The earlier fj55/fj40 axles without disks can be converted to disks using later fj60 knuckle and birfield parts> effectively mixing parts of a 40/55 and a 60 series> 60 axles are wider tha 40/55; if you do not want wider, but want disks, swap knuckles and birfs, hubs and brake parts from a 60 axle to the 40/55 axle. if you can find/afford a 70 series axles, they are the same track as the 40/55, but have the upgrayded components already included. I hope that clears it up a bit more for you...mix 60 series parts into a 40/55 axle, or source 70 axles just as they are;)
Click to expand...

Awesome Thanks Crusher!! Hey if I can source a 70 axle as it is, that might be a great option. Appreciate the info big time.
 
no kidding...kill switches are great. no wheel works too, but I am unaware of a bolt on quick release for the pig. plus I like my school bus steering wheel:steer: the pigs stock shifter is not easy to remove, but a later fj60 4 speed shifter can pop right out...food for thought...(you'd need to swap in a 19 spline 4 speed and split case to use it tho, and then you'd have to swap in a rear axle with ebrake at the drum:meh: snowballs and land cruisers seem to go hand in hand:doh:)
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
no kidding...kill switches are great. no wheel works too, but I am unaware of a bolt on quick release for the pig. plus I like my school bus steering wheel:steer: the pigs stock shifter is not easy to remove, but a later fj60 4 speed shifter can pop right out...food for thought...(you'd need to swap in a 19 spline 4 speed and split case to use it tho, and then you'd have to swap in a rear axle with ebrake at the drum:meh: snowballs and land cruisers seem to go hand in hand:doh:)
Click to expand...

Yeah a Ford Mustang buddy told me about the QR's. Not legal in some states but so is car theft! Anyway I am keeping the big wheel without a doubt. Super easy to remove and keep at work/home. Three little screws off the cover, and the bolt-pull it and that's it. We like to hike a fair bit, so may purchase a small whell JUST for those days since it would be easier to keep in my pack.
 
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