The end of this month was the tentative release date for the complete 6BT kit, but we will be a little past that while we wait for delivery of some outside sourced parts that go in the kits.
The first 5 kits will be sold to individuals I feel are experienced with similar work and who will get the install done in a reasonable timeframe (2-3 weekends or one solid week) and give feedback on the instructions and any stumbling points so anything that isn't perfectly clear is corrected on a small scale.
When these first 5 kits are shipped I will start a detailed information thread here with all the kit details, install pictures, videos and facts about the results.
The 6BT kit doesn't look much like what was installed in the Jonesy's Predator. There have been significant design changes since then. The kit is not a 6 month project and is not much more complicated then changing out the stock 1FZ, but there are certainly right and not so right ways to go about the process so detailed instructions need to be followed pretty close.
The answers to common questions we get about the kits are-
The kits fit 2002 and older Dodge Cummins engines only. The 93 and older engines will require some of the parts the 94-02 engines come with so they work with the kit.
The 89-93 engines will get the best fuel economy and are reasonably quiet.
The 94-98 P-pump engines will get 1-5 MPG less than the 89-93 engines, but the P-pump engines are a good choice if you are running veggie oil or plan to run lower gears than optimal (like 4.10's and 31" tires). The P-pump engines seem to handle 2000+ RPM cruising pretty good, they fuel better at the middle and top end. The P-pump engines are slightly louder than the 89-93 VE engines (they have a 1000 PSI higher injection pressure).
The 98-02 24V engines work with this kit as well. These engines are self contained electronic engines, but the overall packaging of the engines is the same as prior mechanical versions. The 98-02 engines are by far the loudest of all Cummins engines, possibly the loudest engines ever made. In stock form (without some kind of tuner) these engines get pretty poor mileage. With minor modifications these engines are very reliable and get good mileage.
Do not buy an industrial/medium duty 5.9 Cummins for this swap. You need one from a Dodge. The Dodge accessories are re-used and will cost some to source if your engine doesn't come with them. The non-Dodge engines are packaged differently- Different turbo location, different injection lines, even some of the timing covers are slightly different from Dodge versions causing fitment issues.
You do not need an entire Dodge truck, just the engine with AC, PS, Vacuum pump, alternator.
"Will it pass California inspection/emissions?"
According to California rules an OBDI FZJ80 will pass inspection/smog with a Dodge Cummins 5.9L engine installed with all of it's factory emissions components intact and a proper engine data plate. The OBDII 80's are a different story and we haven't tried it. Here in Oregon even a 4BT powered OBDI 80 series has passed Portland emissions with flying colors (the engine's actual emissions passed perfect).
"Does the stock transmission hold up?"
YES! The kit includes components specific to increasing the transmissions power handling ability. The A442 and A343 shift very positive and behave excellent behind Cummins power. The transmission is going to shift firmer at moderate and WOT. The TV cable used on these transmissions and the throttle linkage assembly engineered specifically for this application + the Compushift transmission controller is why this works so well. An upgraded billet converter is part of the basic kit. A multi-disc billet upgrade option will be available in the future for higher HP applications.
"I want to tow a 10K lb travel trailer with my 80 series so how do I get a kit coming?"
The intention of the kit is to make easily available an all around GREAT family SUV that runs economically on diesel fuel or alternative fuels. A 6BT, even a stock 160HP one will be a lot quicker than a 1FZ and get 50-100% better fuel mileage (like 18-22 MPG combined driving fuel economy depending on gearing, tires, and the year of the engine). The kit isn't promoted as increasing the towing capacity of an 80 series. It increases the driving range, drastically lowers the cost of long term maintenance compared to a 1FZ or Toyota diesel and it will put a smile on your face when you drive it.
"Does the weight/power of the engine tear up the frame, suspension, front axle, transmission, axles, etc?"
Your right foot is the single biggest factor here. A stock early 12 valve is a very docile engine. It's good choice if you are concerned about excess power. The engine will add about 300 pounds to the front of an 80. It will drop front springs about an inch. All the ones we've done have been with 2.5" heavy OME front springs and 35" tires. They drive well, the weight doesn't have a noticeable effect on handling. These are heavy vehicles. 300 pounds doesn't make much difference in a 6500 pound vehicle.
Do I need a lift? Not really, but you need 33-37" tires to get the gearing right with 4.10's. The 5.9 will drop the nose a little so you need to do something or the nose will sit a bit low.
"Can I just buy the transmission adapter?"
No, you can't and here is why- The problem with "custom" conversions is the variation in skill/giving a s***/budget of the guy doing it. Some are fantastic, incredible, perfect, but many are just functional and end up worth a fraction of their cost to assemble (Proffitts stuff for example). The primary drivers behind offering a complete kit are the peace of mind of a known end result, the potential for a much higher resale value as a result of using a very high quality, engineered, branded, supported kit and the reduction in tech support we will have to provide since everything is figured out, standardized, documented.
