Builds Utah... the "new blue" - the unforeseen build (1 Viewer)

[2fpower]

Well, I have been contiplating over the past weeks about making a thread about this newer rig, and finally came to the full realization that I am doing a build on this rig. I admit it took having a fully stripped engine for me to come to this realization, so if that tells you anything about how me….


With that said, let be back up a few months. I bought this earlier this year from another MUD member, and TLCA supporter, @spencer arndt You might recognize this rig, as he wrote an article in Trails about it and his bad luck on the Kokopelli trail last year. Since his spindle broke, he did a knuckles out swap with a FJ60.


I found it because I have been searching for an Aqualu tubbed FJ40. -- Yes, I am not a Toyota Purist when it comes to Midwest rust!! It also had been converted to a SBC/ NV4500 5 speed transmission/with an older vacuum operated transfer case. Let's don't forget the Saginaw setup too. Pretty sweet setup.

 

[2fpower]

The SBC is actually a 305 out of a 76' Chevy Camaro - based on the casting and engine numbers. The NV4500 is a post 96' GM bolt pattern. Advanced adapters supplied the other parts and pieces to mate it all up. All corners have disc brakes, and ARB Air lockers front and rear. Edelbrock direct injection was added to the SBC, and an aluminum radiator to keep things cool. Wiring is an early EZ kit, with a tilt GM steering wheel.


The original goal was to fix the little issues and just enjoy driving a 40 again. I really did not want to do a ton of work to this rig; however, things have taken a different path.


Here are pictures of it:

 

[2fpower]

When I picked it up from the transport company, the steering was very sloppy, to the point I thought it was unsafe to drive. Quickly discovered that when the 60 series knuckle conversion was done, the tie rod ends were not adapted, so a quick call was made and installed the steel shims to adapt the fj40 tie rod ends to the fj60 steering arms.


The second issue was the transfer case drain plug was stripped really bad, to the point that during transport the plug was hanging by the last thread. After much research, I found a time sert 18mm kit on ebay, and that was fixed.


The third issue was wiring. The headlight switch was non-operational, as was the electronic speedometer. I must admit that after making the wiring harness for my last 40, I can’t stand a mess of wires, so I spent a few days cleaning up the harness, removing all the crimp end connectors and soldering/shrink wrapping all the wires. While I was doing this, I upgraded the harness to relay driven headlights.


After some test drives and some help from @tornadoalleycruiser we had a list of items that needed to be fixed. The big issue was some frame damage, cracking around the passenger side rear spring mount on the front side and a little twist on the frame. After much debate, the decision was made to swap frames to a frame that I had planned to make my "perfect" 40. Well, this is really going to be that "perfect" 40, so it made sense to use it.

 

[2fpower]

Here are some pics of the work done to the frame we are swapping in:

Saginaw setup, with full through sleeves for bolts and I had bent a ¼ plate to go over the front crossmember at the hole I made for the saginaw. The old frame did not have sleeves, and the frame was compressed and the steering box had some movement.

Reinforced rear spring –front perch. This was reinforced with ¼ wall box.

Frame was boxed in in the rear.

¼ plate was added to the two problem areas in the frame.

Frame was completely sandblasted and POR15 process was done.

There was a ¾ plate rear bumper that I decided to remove and I will fabricate a swing out bumper.

 

[2fpower]

Before taking the plunge of doing this frame swap, I asked for counsel from several friends. When I laid out my thoughts to Sammy, asking if it was a good decision or not, his answer was “I can help you do it next week.” With that I had an answer and a timeline to get this started.

Day one, started with @Robkc and I working together to get things broken down.

Step one was to put a lift system in the ceiling to be able to remove and store the hardtop.

Then we pulled off the front clip and disconnected all hoses and wires from the tub to the engine/frame.

With some extra hands, we pulled off the tub. Rob started cutting off the sliders, and that was the end of day one.

 

[2fpower]

Day two started with prepping to get the frame completely torn down, and the engine on the stand. @Robkc @SammyT08FJ and @StucknKS all took their holiday time to help out. Many thanks go out to them.

During the teardown, we found that the bearing between the NV4500 / Advanced adapters and the Transfer case was totally shelled out with much metal shavings everywhere.

I believe it was at that point that I came to the realization that this was not going to be a quick frame swap, but became more of a fj40 build and was going to be worthy of a build thread.

We popped in new bushings and slid the front axle assembly into the new frame. The Saginaw box slid in place with a couple minor adjustments, with the only issue the clamp at the base of the steering shaft was rubbing. The issue was that in the new frame I had sleeved the hole cut in the front crossmember which added strength, but reduced the ID. After some thought, we found a clamp collar that will solve this issue.

The AA motor mounts and rear propeller mounts were cut off for reuse, and prepped for welding on.

New reinforcing plates for the motor mounts were cut from ¼ sheet and welded onto the new frame.

 

[2fpower]

Plan:

Engine: Quick refresh on the 305. It is leaking from about every possible place, so a gasket kit was ordered, and the only question is if we do the head gaskets while we are doing it. I think the answer is yes, I just need to find a good reference guide, as I have not been a SBC since the 80’s.

Nv4500: pop off the access plates and put a fresh gasket surface on them, hopefully getting out the metal shavings. It was shifting fine with little noise, so I don’t plan to do much else on it. If there are front seals that are easy to replace, I will attempt to do that too. I already picked up the special oil that NV4500 uses from GM. I called QUAD to get new gaskets and seals.

Clutch: flywheel has some discoloring to it, so plan is to get it resurfaced, then pop in a new clutch while it is open. My son is almost 14, so I hope to have him learn to drive stick on this car, thus a new clutch seems like a good plan. The issue on this is that there is no idenfication marks on this clutch. 11” OD. The pressure plate says “LUK” on it. I found a model number LC5473. I called AA, and LUK discontinued this, but they had some NAPA relabeled LUK clutches for sale.

Advanced adapters NV4500 to Toyota transfer case piece – need to replace the bearing that was shot. Bearing is a 6307N, or 6307-2rsnr. I got one sourced from AA.

Transfer case: when we took of the rear driveshaft, oil poured out, so we will need to replace the rear seal while it is out, and the seal between the NV4500 too. I called Kurt’s place -- Cruiser Outfitters and ordered a full set of seals and gaskets.

While it is all out, we will swap in new motor mounts and rear transfer case mounts too.

Axles: the ARB lockers appear to be working although the air actuator was not working, so need to swap in a new part there. The front diff appears to have too much play, and the rear yoke seems sloppy, so we likely will tear down the axles and pull the diffs out to figure out what is going on. While they are out, I will check the knuckles to see if they were centered with the SST.

Brakes: swap in a FJ80 master cylinder, and make up some new brake lines.

 

[2fpower]

Here is a pic of one of the 7 or 8 bearings we found loose from the shelled bearing between the AA on the NV4500 and the stock 3 speed transfer case.

Here is what is left of the bearing.

Here is the LUK clutch pressure plate. you can see the wear at the point that the release bearing was not adjusted correctly.

more pics....

 

[2fpower]

Here is the engine as it sits today, waiting for the gaskets. I need to get a decent manual for changing out the head gasket.

Here is the metal that we welded into the frame to support the new motor mounts.

 

[txnight]

Well, this is certainly more that what will fit in the "what did you do with your Land Cruiser this week" thread!!!

Have fun with it!

 

[Chungas Revenge]

fix the little issues

Righteous!

 

[spencer arndt]

Well...this is humbling seeming I thought I got through a lot of this junk..aside from the obvious leaky motor and things. Something I will let you know..I pulled the tcase and put some new gaskets and seals on/in it a while back and that bearing was blown then. I replaced it and now it's blown again? I never knew too much about gearing I had a mechanic buddy helping me with the tcase, but maybe see if there's something going on to cause that bearing to blow..I would hate to see you do all this work and have that bearing blow again. (Extremely jealous to see you doing this work on it..I would have loved to pull it all apart and make sure every little thing was perfect)

 

[2fpower]

Thanks for the info @spencer arndt

I don't intend to be saying anything negative about you or the car. Yes, I did not plan to do all of this work now, but it will be ok.

About when did you replace that bearing?

 

[spencer arndt]

No problem, it takes a lot to offend me don't worry about it! If anything I'm happy to see you do it, and I didn't mean for you to have so much work. You're finding things I didn't know anything about...I'm more upset for you because I really didn't intend to sell you a big piece of work but I'm glad to see it in good hands. I replaced the bearing almost exactly a year ago, I would say maybe the end of January last year.

 

[2fpower]

The word from AA - and I should pause to say that I am very impressed with AA customer service... very prompt help.

Anyway, the word is that maybe the output shaft of the tranny is too long. It was originally to be shortened, so it could be too long, making the spud shaft, thus putting pressure on the bearing. I requested any manual telling me how to check the length of the shaft for that year adapter case.

 

[Ian Macdonald]

When I redid my t-case I had to replace that bearing. IMHO, that bearing is acting as a thrust bearing keeping the transfer input gear and pto gear in place. I found a diagram that showed a sleeve in it's place that made more sense.

 

[spencer arndt]

I know it is a common spot to blow out a bearing because the output shaft puts pressure on it, but no bearing on any vehicle should last less than a year..if that is the case I really hope it's not too tough to shorten it.

 

[spencer arndt]

Just out of curiosity, because it was my first vehicle and only stick I've driven aside from my 60, how did the clutch plate look? I once thought it was getting low, but after getting a new slave cylinder and adjusting that push rod the clutch felt like I would imagine a new clutch should feel like.

 

[2fpower]

Clutch was about half worn. Pressure plate had excess wear where the throwout bearing sits.

I am not sure if it was part of the issue or not, but the bracket to hold the slave is not in perfect alignment to the fork. it looks like the two bolts that hold the slave on have been pushed up by the frame, as it was tight there. The engine was likely sitting low, as we found that of the two motor mounts, only 3 of the 6 bolts still were there, and all of those bolts left were finger tight. I am thinking that with the lose mounts, the engine sat lower, and twisted under load, and bent that bracket down, adjusting the throw to not be smooth and let off pressure.

Just a theory... I will have to straighten the bracket and already ordered new motor mounts.

 

[2fpower]

Got the top end of the 305 together.