Builds Utah... the "new blue" - the unforeseen build (1 Viewer)

[2fpower]

Got the real rear axle slid under and changed out the master cylinder to an 80 series.

The motor mounts are welded and ready for paint.

Got some friends coming over this afternoon to put the tub back on for test fitting and welding on sliders and frame to roll cage Tie in.

 

[2fpower]

Many thanks go out to Mike, Mike, and Rob. These pictures look awesome; however, don't get too excited.... This is just the mock-up so I can tack weld the frame to Metal tech cage tie-in pieces, the sliders, and working out the details for the rear bumper. I have had this MT family cage for several years, so very excited that I finally am mounting it in a rig.

Had to be able to move the windshield to get the cage in, so I swapped in some hinges, and found the windshield rubber to be wasted. Thinking about leaving the hinges; however, there is not the typical screw bolt thing to hold it, as it is all aluminum Aqualu. Have to figure out what people are using to keep it fixed.

 

[2fpower]

Progress on the rear bumper, what you don't see is that three-quarter inch plate need about a 10° angle as the 40 frame Narrows from back to front. Took everything the 20 ton press could do plus a sledgehammer. I drew it up on the 2 x 4 stock with around the round edge thinking I was going to mimic the early model 40s, however I'm thinking about using the octagon style edge of the later model 40s. The rectangle on the stock is where I'm going to cut the hole for that three-quarter inch stock to pass through it. My intention is to make this bolt onto the frame such that I can TAC everything into place, unbolt it and pull it out

 

[2fpower]

The sliders or tacked in place, the rollbar front feet had to beadjusted to maximize space, I cut out the diagonal bar that is just going to get in the way, and I don't plan to wheel this rig very hard. The metal tech family cage is bolted down, and I was able to get the frame tie in for the front mount done. Still need to do the Tie in for the mid and rear.

 

[2fpower]

I would like to have the ability to drop the front windshield at times however this rig came with a fixed hinge. Recall this is our Aqualu aluminum tub and windshield. I posted a question on the forum to figure out what people are doing to be able to fix the windshield in the upright position when the top is not on.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

neat build. Not sure I would have saved the 305, but with what you did it makes total economic sense. If the 305 ever needs rebuilt, though, a 350 with Vortec (aftermarket, though) heads bolts directly in place and does wonders for torque, fuel economy and is at least 1/2 as expensive as the 305 would cost to rebuild....

don't let that detract, though, I think the 305 is a pretty good motor for the '40 because it's long stroke small bore.... good economy with great torque.

 

[2fpower]

neat build. Not sure I would have saved the 305, but with what you did it makes total economic sense. If the 305 ever needs rebuilt, though, a 350 with Vortec (aftermarket, though) heads bolts directly in place and does wonders for torque, fuel economy and is at least 1/2 as expensive as the 305 would cost to rebuild....

don't let that detract, though, I think the 305 is a pretty good motor for the '40 because it's long stroke small bore.... good economy with great torque.

Yeah, I was pretty bummed when I discovered it was a 305. Decided to fix the leaks, but not go any futher. My plan is to use it and eventually get a crate motor 350 if I am not happy or it starts acting up. That edelbrock intake manifold is made for the 350, so should work fine still.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

back before Vortec heads, the quick cure to what ailed a smog-era 350 was 305 heads. They have smaller combustion chambers (58cc) so would raise the compression of the malaise-era SBC (78-ish cc)... when you get to the change point (if ever) there are several companies who cast their own version on the Vortec head that allow use of both intake bolt patterns. Basically I'm suggesting what I built for Shipwreck... and it's cheap.... I could copy the motor for $1500 and there are companies out there that do even better than that (price).

 

[2fpower]

Worked on the Tie ins for the cage to the frame. Thanks to Erik and Rob for the bender borrowing.

 

[2fpower]

Also worked on rear bumper plans.

 

[2fpower]

I checked out Rob's 40 -- currently he is working on several fixes, including this rear bumper protection and link to the frame. I think I will add something like this.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I like that, one thing to consider, in addition, is creating jack points on the rails - e.g. places where the jack won't slide when lifting (or will slide depending on your wheeling style). One thing that I've found is that multiple points to tie off are worth their weight in gold - example, we had friend who, but for a root-ball, would have slid off the side of the mountain (1000' almost straight down). To pull him off required first sliding the truck sideways with a number of trucks used as anchor points. There weren't side-anchor points and, despite a positive outcome, it was a dice roll about getting the truck back to safety... since then, everything I own has attach points and jack points on the side of the vehicle...

 

[handcannon]

SBG, never thought much about this before, but very good suggestion. Have you done this already on your build? My memory is not helping me here, so pics would be helpful if you have added the points already.

Don

 

[2fpower]

Agreed, would like to see some examples of jack points @SuperBuickGuy if you have any ideas.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the jack points on mine aren't there yet - there will be spots on the rock rails, and when I finish the tire carrier there will be some on the corners as well.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Here is what I did for rear corner protection. The notch in the bottom edge fits a highlift and will support the weight of the truck. This bumper is all aluminum so it's light too.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I really like that - and thank you, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Of course, mine won't be aluminum because my aluminum welds are all function and no form.

 

[2fpower]

I bought one of these last year, so it should work on the sliders and the tube from the rear bumper to the frame. I might weld a stop somewhere on them to keep them from sliding.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

I would like to have the ability to drop the front windshield at times however this rig came with a fixed hinge. Recall this is our Aqualu aluminum tub and windshield. I posted a question on the forum to figure out what people are doing to be able to fix the windshield in the upright position when the top is not on. View attachment 1197436

on the stock tub, there's a flange on the tub that meets the back of the windshield frame. I suspect it's there to keep water out, which makes me curious - how does the aqualu tub keep the water from pushing under the windshield frame and onto your lap?

 

[2fpower]

Lots of progress this weekend. Rear bumper.