PabloCruise
SILVER Star
At some point you could send the distributor to Jim Chenoweth for a rebuild, and probably work out a swap with the '75 cab for a '78...
Builds Uglina is Back Thread ('78 Mustard FJ40) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TEQ
- Start date
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TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #62
Going after the oil leak(s)
After 3 weeks of driving I really needed to get the oil leaks fixed. It was making a mess of our driveway, and my wife was getting annoyed. So I parked her in the garage, jacked her up, and went at it. Even though I had cleaned the underside, it was already a mess of oil again. I could tell it was leaking from at least
- The oil pan
- The rear diff cover
- The front diff cover
- And probably the t-case/e-brake
My plan was to take care of the oil pan first, drive it some more and see if I could pin down where else it was leaking. I had ordered a new gasket from SOR and I figured it would take me a few hours...
After pulling the front wheels (not strictly necessary, but I knew it would give me more light) I noted my knuckles were seeping a bit, particularly on the left side. No biggie, but noted for future reference...
I also discovered that to take the oil pan off I had to take the clutch cover off. So that's what a clutch looks like.
Note to noobs draining oil: Buy a large oil catcher and several 5 gallon plastic pails with lids (Home Depot) and lots and lots of paper shop towels. You will spill oil and cleaning it up with rags will not endear you to your spouse.
I then removed all of the bolts holding the pan in place and pulled on it, kinda expecting it to just drop down. No joy. It was not coming off easily.
After consulting with Mud (thank you Poser) I went at the gasket hard with a broad flat screwdriver and crowbar. I was initially careful about not bending the pan, but then I realized I was going to dump the pan anyway and replace it given the general feeling that the spot welds for the skid plate give up over time. I had no way of knowing whether my pan was really leaking through these welds, but better safe than sorry...
Once I got penetration in between the gasket and the pan, I was able to wedge the pan free and it came out nicely.
Below you can see the cork gasket. It's pretty obvious where oil was seeping under it and where it wasn't.
What isn't obvious from this picture is how stuck the gasket was to the block...
After 3 weeks of driving I really needed to get the oil leaks fixed. It was making a mess of our driveway, and my wife was getting annoyed. So I parked her in the garage, jacked her up, and went at it. Even though I had cleaned the underside, it was already a mess of oil again. I could tell it was leaking from at least
- The oil pan
- The rear diff cover
- The front diff cover
- And probably the t-case/e-brake
My plan was to take care of the oil pan first, drive it some more and see if I could pin down where else it was leaking. I had ordered a new gasket from SOR and I figured it would take me a few hours...
After pulling the front wheels (not strictly necessary, but I knew it would give me more light) I noted my knuckles were seeping a bit, particularly on the left side. No biggie, but noted for future reference...
I also discovered that to take the oil pan off I had to take the clutch cover off. So that's what a clutch looks like.
Note to noobs draining oil: Buy a large oil catcher and several 5 gallon plastic pails with lids (Home Depot) and lots and lots of paper shop towels. You will spill oil and cleaning it up with rags will not endear you to your spouse.
I then removed all of the bolts holding the pan in place and pulled on it, kinda expecting it to just drop down. No joy. It was not coming off easily.
After consulting with Mud (thank you Poser) I went at the gasket hard with a broad flat screwdriver and crowbar. I was initially careful about not bending the pan, but then I realized I was going to dump the pan anyway and replace it given the general feeling that the spot welds for the skid plate give up over time. I had no way of knowing whether my pan was really leaking through these welds, but better safe than sorry...
Once I got penetration in between the gasket and the pan, I was able to wedge the pan free and it came out nicely.
Below you can see the cork gasket. It's pretty obvious where oil was seeping under it and where it wasn't.
What isn't obvious from this picture is how stuck the gasket was to the block...
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #64
Getting that oil pan gasket off was really, really hard work. The flat part wasn't too bad, but the parts in the arch were a bitch. I'd work for an hour or so and then need to do something else.
So while taking a break from the gasket...I knew the rear diff was leaking from both gaskets (pretty badly) and the front was leaking just a bit. I figured...dive in. So I pulled the rear diff cover after draining the oil.
This is when I realized I needed to remove the rear axles to remove the 3rd member (and I also learned that it's called a 3rd member because the crankcase is 1st and the tranny is 2nd). Getting the rear axles off was a snap.
Getting the 3rd member off was easy too. The FSM was clear and somewhere on Mud I read that a few rubber mallet whacks on the 3rd member would knock it loose. I had also read that it was darn heavy and to be prepared for that. I'm glad I read that.
Some of you have already seen my thread on this, but to summarize:
The 3rd member really needs to be replaced. I also figured out at this point that replacing the front diff seal would require removing the front axles...this would require removing the front hubs and knucles. Wow.
This put me at a key decision point: Patch it back together with just a new side gear, ignore the weld in the 3rd, ignore the front diff leak, and be back on the road in a few days. OR, go big and fix it all.
Next....will Charlie Go Big or Go Home?
So while taking a break from the gasket...I knew the rear diff was leaking from both gaskets (pretty badly) and the front was leaking just a bit. I figured...dive in. So I pulled the rear diff cover after draining the oil.
This is when I realized I needed to remove the rear axles to remove the 3rd member (and I also learned that it's called a 3rd member because the crankcase is 1st and the tranny is 2nd). Getting the rear axles off was a snap.
Getting the 3rd member off was easy too. The FSM was clear and somewhere on Mud I read that a few rubber mallet whacks on the 3rd member would knock it loose. I had also read that it was darn heavy and to be prepared for that. I'm glad I read that.
Some of you have already seen my thread on this, but to summarize:
- One of the side gears had a massive chip missing from a tooth. I found this tooth in the bottom of the axle casing.
- The 3rd member cover had been welded and the crack through to the inside was deep.
The 3rd member really needs to be replaced. I also figured out at this point that replacing the front diff seal would require removing the front axles...this would require removing the front hubs and knucles. Wow.
This put me at a key decision point: Patch it back together with just a new side gear, ignore the weld in the 3rd, ignore the front diff leak, and be back on the road in a few days. OR, go big and fix it all.
Next....will Charlie Go Big or Go Home?
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #65
Time go Go Big
At this point I knew the rig was cosmetically sound. The body looks fantastic from 10 feet away. From 3 feet away the paint is actually pretty bad in some spots (some rattle can touch up here and there), but it looks nice.
The interior is fantastic. The only thing wrong there is the rear heater fan doesn't spin and I want a tuffy box.
I had also decided that even though the 75 carb and emissions stuff wasn't "right" it worked very well and it was just the purist in me that wanted them corrected.
So clearly my focus needs to be on the mechanicals. I created a list of things I needed to do, and last weekend I began working through that list in earnest. My goal is to have all of these mechanical things fixed by the end of May. I can only really work on the rig at night and sometimes on the weekends (family is my highest priority), so while this might sound like a long time for the list of things here, for me it seems pretty realistic.
I was able to find a set of 3.73 3rds from a '79 (thanks Yoda!). One casing is pretty rusted, but I believe it will clean up nicely. This will be mainly a daily driver, so the 3.73 gearing should work nicely for me.
Here's my list in the rough order I will attack:
At this point I knew the rig was cosmetically sound. The body looks fantastic from 10 feet away. From 3 feet away the paint is actually pretty bad in some spots (some rattle can touch up here and there), but it looks nice.
The interior is fantastic. The only thing wrong there is the rear heater fan doesn't spin and I want a tuffy box.
I had also decided that even though the 75 carb and emissions stuff wasn't "right" it worked very well and it was just the purist in me that wanted them corrected.
So clearly my focus needs to be on the mechanicals. I created a list of things I needed to do, and last weekend I began working through that list in earnest. My goal is to have all of these mechanical things fixed by the end of May. I can only really work on the rig at night and sometimes on the weekends (family is my highest priority), so while this might sound like a long time for the list of things here, for me it seems pretty realistic.
I was able to find a set of 3.73 3rds from a '79 (thanks Yoda!). One casing is pretty rusted, but I believe it will clean up nicely. This will be mainly a daily driver, so the 3.73 gearing should work nicely for me.
Here's my list in the rough order I will attack:
- Tear down front hubs/knuckles (done)
- Remove front 3rd member (done)
- Finish removing oil pan gasket (done!!!!)
- Remove old gasket material from diff covers (done)
- Remove front steering components (tie rod, relay rod, etc...) (done)
- Remove LF Fender (to access PS box) (done)
- Remove old coolant hoses (done. Thanks Bull).
- Clean, de-rust, and paint: 3rd members, steering components, knuckles...
- Replace PS box (leaking badly)
- Replace PS hoses
- Rebuild hubs and knuckles
- Replace rear drum pads
- Replace front disc pads
- Drop Tranny/Tcase
- Fix Tranny/Tcase seals, rebuild as needed
- Rebuild parking brake
- Replace clutch, install new clutch fork boot
- Replace rear main seal
- Install 3.73 3rds with new gaskets & nuts.
- Install 2.5" Lift Kit. OME Springs, Shocks, Shackles, etc…
- Replace Tie rod and drag link ends
- Rebuild center arm
- Replace stabilizer (got a new one from Bull)
- Replace Tie Rod and Relay Rod (both bent)
- Reinstall Tranny/Tcase
- Fix speedo cable/seal
- New fill/drain plugs
- Install new oil pan
- Fix battery, frame, body ground wires.
- Install new battery tray (requires drilling out a broken stud)
- Install new hoses
- Install new Fan & AC Belts
- Install my Tuffy box
- Fix rear heater fan
- Clean frame rails (full of mud)
- Put my new OEM steel (freshly poweder coated!) wheels on
- Drive away
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #66
Hub Tear Down
I was pretty nervous about tearing down my front hubs and knuckles. The FSM used lots of terms I didn't know and there were sooo many parts. Bull pushed me over the edge by starting me on the left one and I completed it and the right one on my own.
Hub and disc brakes off:
One of the hubs. Mechanically these look fairly sound, but they are pretty beat up. I tried a wire wheel to clean them up and they look somewhat better, but will still look like crap inside of my shiny new hubcaps. So I'm replacing them with new ones. These are for sale.
Components out of the right one. I've since cleaned everything up ('cept the bearings, bolts & gaskets which will be replaced). Quite a few studs both on the knuckle and the hubs were stripped or otherwise beat up, so I'm replacing them as well.
Knuckle housing. Getting the bearings out was tough without the SST. I knew I was replacing them, so I used a bit of brute force. Yes, I tagged the spacers per the FSM....
One of the bottom knuckle plates looks pretty worn where it fits inside the bearing. I think I should replace it. Thoughts?
I was pretty nervous about tearing down my front hubs and knuckles. The FSM used lots of terms I didn't know and there were sooo many parts. Bull pushed me over the edge by starting me on the left one and I completed it and the right one on my own.
Hub and disc brakes off:
One of the hubs. Mechanically these look fairly sound, but they are pretty beat up. I tried a wire wheel to clean them up and they look somewhat better, but will still look like crap inside of my shiny new hubcaps. So I'm replacing them with new ones. These are for sale.
Components out of the right one. I've since cleaned everything up ('cept the bearings, bolts & gaskets which will be replaced). Quite a few studs both on the knuckle and the hubs were stripped or otherwise beat up, so I'm replacing them as well.
Knuckle housing. Getting the bearings out was tough without the SST. I knew I was replacing them, so I used a bit of brute force. Yes, I tagged the spacers per the FSM....
One of the bottom knuckle plates looks pretty worn where it fits inside the bearing. I think I should replace it. Thoughts?
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #67
Oil Pan Gasket Off!
I finally got the damn oil pan gasket off last night. Having the front 3rd member removed made accessing the arched portion at the front of the motor easier. I used acetone, a screw driver, a razor blade, a gasket scraper, a wire wheel on my drill, and a ton of elbow grease. I do not think I could get the mating surface any cleaner.
I feel like I really accomplished something
I also cleaned the faces where the 3rd members attach.
It was fun taking the fender off. I can see how people tear these rigs apart so quickly...once you start...
And I've got most parts tagged and bagged.
That's all for tonight...
I finally got the damn oil pan gasket off last night. Having the front 3rd member removed made accessing the arched portion at the front of the motor easier. I used acetone, a screw driver, a razor blade, a gasket scraper, a wire wheel on my drill, and a ton of elbow grease. I do not think I could get the mating surface any cleaner.
I feel like I really accomplished something
I also cleaned the faces where the 3rd members attach.
It was fun taking the fender off. I can see how people tear these rigs apart so quickly...once you start...
And I've got most parts tagged and bagged.
That's all for tonight...
TEQ said:
Ok, I'm a noob, this is my first post, and I'm scared. In the beginning of your post, I thought you had just the rig I'd been looking for, and over three pages, it degenerated to this! Ahhh!
I'm expecting to see the inside of your tranny any day now.I'm in sunny CA, and I get to deal with the ever-self-important smog man, and the '78 I'm looking at has the smog controls of a '58. Anyone want a 2x3 header cheap?
Someone tell me that I have half a chance of ever figuring out that multi-pus of little vaccuum hoses.
On a positive note I have two of those indentured servants who want to learn to drive...
hey man.............little off topic, but i was wondering what kinda digi cam you are runnin those pics are crisp to say the least.... cruiiser is lookin real solid also
Fast Eddy said:Ok, I'm a noob, this is my first post, and I'm scared. In the beginning of your post, I thought you had just the rig I'd been looking for, and over three pages, it degenerated to this! Ahhh!
I'm in sunny CA, and I get to deal with the ever-self-important smog man, and the '78 I'm looking at has the smog controls of a '58. Anyone want a 2x3 header cheap?
Someone tell me that I have half a chance of ever figuring out that multi-pus of little vaccuum hoses.
On a positive note I have two of those indentured servants who want to learn to drive...
Where in CA are you?
When i restored my '78 I was thinking the same thing about the vac. lines. Turns out they are not all that difficult to figure out. I reccomend you get the FSM's for 1978. The Emissions Manual is very helpful.
Welcome to MUD!
Sorry for the hijack TEQ. Just wanted to help the new guy.
Great thread! .... please continue
Great thread! .... please continue
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #75
Robert LaDuke said:
No problem! Just as long as it doesn't deteriorate like Bull's Albert 99 UZJ100 thread did...
Robert LaDuke said:
Where can you find the FSM (field service manuals?)
I live near San Jose. There's a '78 2f for sale on the classified boards near Sac that has all the smog parts still on it.
I also have a place in Phoenix where a 25 year old vehicle is exempt. It may get an AZ plate on it for a while while I get it sorted out.
TEQ
Tigger
- Thread starter
- #77
Fast Eddy said:
I purchased my FSMs (chassis & body as well as 2F engine) from www.sor.com. I have also seen them for sale on eBay and other online cruiser shops.
Or you could send a personal message to cruiserdan who is the parts manager for a Toyota dealer in NM. He can get you OEM parts (including the FSM) at really good prices.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Get the manuals from Cruiser Dan - and all your other Toyota parts...
TEQ - not be a tool, but I was interested in the mounts for the pump, not the box...
Any chance of seeing those? Sorry - you put up great pics of the box!
TEQ - not be a tool, but I was interested in the mounts for the pump, not the box...
Any chance of seeing those? Sorry - you put up great pics of the box!
PabloCruise said:
It's the mount that uses the head bolts to attach to the engine. Similiar to this one.
http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/4+Plus Saginaw Pump Bracket 2F Engines.htm
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
bull said:
Actually, I think it was a two piece deal, head bolts mounted to rear of pump, and front of PS pump mounted to water pump...
