TSM Driveline Parking Brake Install (1 Viewer)

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Escondido, CA
Installed my driveline brake from TSM, ran into a couple issue I though I'd run by the brain trust.

My two issues, possibly related, are that the rear pad drags pretty hard, and the lever hits the case (see pic). Seems to me the only way to fix this would be to shim the red mounting bracket off the speedo drive housing an 1/8 - 1/4".

I'm hoping since this is made for the 40 that I just messed something simple up, the instructions from TSM are pretty vague.
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Just as a followup to future searchers, I called TSM and they said I had it installed correctly, and didn't know why it was hitting/binding. I'm going to shim it off until it doesn't bind, and grind the lever if needed.
 
please post a pic of the end outcome - I would appreciate it

did you use a dash- or a floor-mounted parking brake lever ? Did you need a new cable ?
 
The unit seems to be spaced off the housing fairly far already as is. try using a slightly longer sleeve under the spring that holds the pads apart and IMO just red rill and grind the lever to clear.
 
Stock dash mounted brake lever, looks like the length is good but I haven't done any final adjustment yet.
 
peesalot - The issue I see with that is that you are then increasing the travel of that assembly, so you will use up most of your lever throw getting it adjusted. You have the same leverage whether you add at the mount or caliper assembly, so that really isn't a factor.
 
Stock dash mounted brake lever, looks like the length is good but I haven't done any final adjustment yet.

really looking forward to report :bounce:
 
Well, I dug through my scrap and made a really sweet plate out of some 3/16" aluminum, got it all bolted up and it moved it too far (pic 1). Unbolted everything, installed a single 8mm washer under each standoff, and it gave me just enough clearance where the rear pad was touching, but I could rotate the driveshaft by hand (pic 3). As you can see from the second picture, there is a very small (maybe 1/16" or so) range where the brake can mount and not bind. Haven't had a chance to try it on a hill yet, bit it seems to hold fine. Didn't even have to adjust the brake cable, and the lever clears by a fleas butthair.
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:hmm:
 
Just wondering what your thoughts are on this after you've had it for a while. You have an early transfer case, right? Did you have to machine anything? The instructions on TSM's website mention "Machine drum off of the splined yoke assembly. Leave a flange of about 4 9/16."
 
I could never get it to fold solidly on much more than a mild slope, to make matters worse I towed it home 100 miles with the brake on which caused a bit of wear on the pads. I couldn't find replacements anywhere other than TSM, and they wanted over $100. I need to either improve the clamping force somehow, or maybe go to a hydraulic caliper with a clutch cylinder or something similar. This wouldn't be for long term parking. I wish I could rig an air brake actuator, but I imagine they would be too big to fit under there. As it is not if I'm on much of a slope I kill the motor and put it in gear.

I have the later case with the early internals, basically you need to somehow remove the drum portion while leaving the center. I did a rough cut with a cutoff wheel then mounted it up and idled the engine with a flapdisk as a redneck lathe. Not perfect but it doesn't need to be.
 

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