Steering Rack Bushing Replacement (1 Viewer)

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Location
Canton, GA
Alright, I decided to take a hiatus from staring/listening to my top end noise waiting for an epiphany and decided to embark on a new adventure. I was hoping for something I could easily tackle and regain some confidence...

So I jacked up the front end to try and find some play in the front end. The drivers side wheel has some play wiggling 3 and 9 o'clock. Nothing in the front end is in terrific shape, but nothing looks terribly beat either. I couldn't find any play until I noticed a bit of movement of the rack. It's only moving a little bit and I thought 'hey, this is great, I can tighten these four bolts and we're good!', who was I kidding and who forgot to remind me to use my magnetized tray so I don't lose any of the skid plate bolts!

After reading several threads, I ordered the whiteline w13210 kit on Amazon for $40 and started to unbolt the rack. The rearward bolt and nut were a little discouraging, alright a lot discouraging, but I already ordered the kit, so... Eventually I got the rack loose, but decided to call it a day there. I think I want the other bushings in hand to help me see my end goal and I need a little encouragement. I'm also going to go hunting for some pictures on tips with the threaded rod.

On a positive note, I did find a nut and bolt (apparently from a previous owner, as it's not the missing oil fill nut I lost) and an oil leak, yay! It looks like its coming from the dipstick tube, but I didn't spend much time cleaning/digging around this afternoon.
 
Good luck, I'll be following along for sure. This is something I really want done on my truck, I might place an order for parts tonight. :)
 
Good luck, I'll be following along for sure. This is something I really want done on my truck, I might place an order for parts tonight. :)
If your rack is in even "decent" shape, it's totally worth it. Order the parts and do it. Several threads already on here with gory details, step by step instructions, and results.
 
I used super pro on mine and I'm very happy with it! Just replaced after 278k miles it was barely hanging on. Steering is more responsive now but noticed my out emu outer tie rods need replacing bushings are gone. Not sure if all that play may have been the cause.
 
FWIW, this is the hardware that I bought from Home Depot to install the new.

Just a few washers to get it started but still have enough thread length to get the nut on. Then add washers at bottom end to pull it all the way down.

20160218_065819.jpg
 
I used super pro on mine and I'm very happy with it! Just replaced after 278k miles it was barely hanging on. Steering is more responsive now but noticed my out emu outer tie rods need replacing bushings are gone. Not sure if all that play may have been the cause.

have you looked for the tie rod bushings? does super pro make them?
 
Thanks Oregon, I made one up now before I begin.

Amazon prime failed me again, still don't have the parts, but I got antsy and took 45 seconds to remove the old bushings. There's not much left of them, they just about fell out by themselves...

 
have you looked for the tie rod bushings? does super pro make them?

Didn't bother, it didn't look like the type that could be replaced, (I could be wrong) so I just ordered Toyota OEM tie rod ends ready for install. I tend to work on the truck evenly, if one is gone I do both.
 
Hey fellas. Always curious about how to do this stuff.

So I've been cruising underneath the truck to get a lay of the land of the steering rack. I know and can see the four bolts that hold the rack in place. @OregonLC. I like the pic of the tool. Any pics of the tool being used?
And as far as the bid D shaped bushing I'm assuming one will need to remove/detach outer tie-rid to slip through PS?????

Also, if one is just removing and replacing bushings only would it be an easier job to lift engine, as some have suggested?

And the bigger question is: If I were to devise a tool similar to the above how is it used??? How to take out old bushings if they don't just fall out? How to use tool to squeeze new bushings in. Can't seem to wrap my head around the idea. It's not too clear.

Pics? Pics? Pics?
 
The D bushing had a slice in it to go around the rack, no need to remove anything.

The other bushings just pushed out from the bottom using a screw driver through the cross member, not really sure how normal removal would be.


At this point in the game there is no way I'd consider lifting/jacking the engine. One of the bolts was harder to get to than the rest, but nothing bad. We'll see how I feel about that when I'm trying to install tomorrow.
 
Keep them pics coming @camino70!!!

Thanks for the info on the large D bushing!!

So once you removed the bolts you were able to use a long enough screwdriver to go through the crossmember and reach the bushings on the rack to push them out?


Now for the tool used by @OregonLC.

Sorry for the poor sketch/drawing skills. Is this how the set up would be used????

image.jpeg


Then tighten the nut so that the bushing gets pushed in from above?

Or is there room to sandwich the bushing between x member and rack and use the above tool to squeeze the bushing in that way?
 
So once you removed the bolts you were able to use a long enough screwdriver to go through the crossmember and reach the bushings on the rack to push them out?

Now for the tool used by @OregonLC.
Sorry for the poor sketch/drawing skills. Is this how the set up would be used????

Then tighten the nut so that the bushing gets pushed in from above?Or is there room to sandwich the bushing between x member and rack and use the above tool to squeeze the bushing in that way?

Yes, I think so. Here is another picture showing the bushing being pushed here. This thread has a good step by step how to's.

Tomorrow is supposed to be in 60s here so I am going to try to do this. I think your sketch is correct - it is what I have in mind, but I havent done it yet.
 
Whiteline kit arrived, showing the split D:

Where is everyone purchasing the hoses to/from the power steering reservoir? I can find 3/8 transmission hose locally, but not 5/8. I don't see much choices online either. Both of these hoses are in pretty bad shape and I'd like to replace them while I'm here.
Thanks,
Ron
 
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The bolt and D washer method is what I used.....although I forgot about the "D" portion (which I merely folded with a vice and hammer) at first. Then it went smoothly.

A flex-head ratchet and deep socket is what I used to access the bolts for the large bushing.

Note that the manual says NOT to reuse the bolts. New hardware is over $50......I reused the nuts and washers.
 
That was way easier than I imagined it, which means I probably did something wrong.

I intended to take more pictures, but I couldn't stop to scrub my hands every few steps, sorry.

While the rack no longer moves, I still have the same slop at 3 and 9, is my rack shot or ???

Tia
 
Sorry for my ignorance Julian, there isn't play in any of the joints/connections, the steering arm moves into the rack a bit. It's only the drivers side and tested with only one wheel in the air.
I'm still looking for a 5/8 hose, so there isn't any fluid at the moment.
 
I would just fit the new pipe, fill it up with fluid and try it on the road and see how the steering feels. To check the inner track rod joint you would probably have to slide the gaitor back to expose it. When the rack wears you can normally feel it on both sides as there is only one rack and pinion gear.
 
I was just checking out some vids.

You would need to jack up the truck and get both tires off the ground to check some of your steering components.

Possibly inner or outer tie-rod???

On a tangent. Play at 3 and 9 may also mean bearing issues.
 
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