Steering damper removal (1 Viewer)

[goped]

Sorry for this post but I am having a difficult time removing the original steering damper. I got the bolts off but can not remove the screw. I hit it with a hammer and no luck. How do you guys do it? Also I need to know what to do with the tube coming out of the engine. Thanks

 

[618Henrik]

Bigger hammer

no idea about the tube

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

The tube may have something to do with the stock carburetor. The original fuel system pumped the fuel with an edp (engine-driven pump) from the tank past the carburetor and back to the tank, there was a tap off to the carburetor that allowed it to draw what it needed from the fuel stream flowing past it. It would help to know what the other end of the tube is attached to.

 

[Bang Bang]

As the other 2 guys mentioned......a big f@$%^&g hammer on the bolt. It's just rusted in there. Spray it down with some liquid wrench or other for a couple days and it should help. And a better picture for the tube. Knowing where it goes to / comes from is the key.

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

As for the steering damper , all I can suggest is keeping it soaked in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks then trying again. If your hammer won't work try an impact hammer. It looks like you have already started to flare the end of the pin so you will have to cut it off or grind off the flare after it starts to move. Or cut it off flush with the bracket and drill the accessible side out. Hopefully you won't have to drill out the entire pin. (or bolt - I don't see any threads in your picture but I would have expected that to be a nut and bolt assembly).

Another option is the so-called "hot wrench", where you use a torch (sometimes a propane torch will do it but often you require an oxy-acetylene cutting torch) to heat the whole assembly up until you can break the lock that corrosion has on the fastener.

Last resort - grind off the rivets and pry the bracket off and take it complete with shimmy damper to a machine shop who can separate them for you. The bracket can be reinstalled using appropriately sized grade 8 bolts, or you can go to an aftermarket damper and not even have to put the bracket back on.

 

[FF LC FREAK]

As others have said, soak it in some penetrating oil. Then, go buy a $10 pickle fork / tie rod separator from your local parts store. Stick the pickle fork in there, and beat it with a BFH. It'll come out.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

The tube looks like the fuel line that comes from the fuel pump and feeds the carb.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, OTC brand puller, rent if. You don't want to buy from Auto Zone. Mike

 

[Steamer]

That tube is most likely the fuel return to the tank which was hooked to the original carb. It was probably just disconnected when that Weber carb was installed which doesn't have a return. You may want to just cap it off if you think you may go back to stock carb someday.

 

[Fast Eddy]

As others have said, soak it in some penetrating oil. Then, go buy a $10 pickle fork / tie rod separator from your local parts store. Stick the pickle fork in there, and beat it with a BFH. It'll come out.

Yup.

That tube is most likely the fuel return to the tank which was hooked to the original carb. It was probably just disconnected when that Weber carb was installed which doesn't have a return.

And yup.

 

[Shark56]

And make sure you keep the flare nut thats on that fuel line!

 

[TOPacifica]

I just went through this for my 70 series lbs cruiser BJ 71. Man, it was not easy. after reading EVERY post on removing the steering damper, what worked for me was a bearing puller / pickle bar. But in a different way… so wanted to add this post.

I had 2 options at AutoZone, and I went with the slightly smaller one that had, and this was the significant feature, a taper to it. The two prongs were tapered. I also bought the bearing puller that someone else had pictured, and that didn’t work for me at all. in fact, hammering away at the pickle bar didn’t work. What did was simply hitting the end of it into that gap where the grease fitting is and the taper is what actually did most of the work to remove the steering damper hardware. So you might want to look for the tapered steering damper as it is in the photo .