One more pic - from her good side...
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0 offset confirmed! Did some more pinch weld grinding, pushed the upper fender tabs in annd up angainst the fender, and heat molded the upper fender lining to be a little more flush with the fender. Also extended the front bump stops maybe half an inch. Still gotta do some flex testing but no more rub when turning or hitting speed bumps exiting the parking garage.Proportions look great!
Are these the zero or +25 offset method NVs ?
Thanks for getting back to me0 offset confirmed! Did some more pinch weld grinding, pushed the upper fender tabs in annd up angainst the fender, and heat molded the upper fender lining to be a little more flush with the fender. Also extended the front bump stops maybe half an inch. Still gotta do some flex testing but no more rub when turning or hitting speed bumps exiting the parking garage.View attachment 3594457
Well it's not crazy long term but I've got 2 years on the 35s now and so far so good. I'm sure the rack will give out at some point now though with 435k on itHow has been steering rack reliability for people who have been on 35s for longer time?
I always heard that the rack is not particularly happy with the larger tires. I am up both for new tires and new rack and 35s do indeed look mint and would be helpful for the trails we have around, where there are lots of Patrols on 35" and lots of lumber trucks so often the ruts are a challenge on 33s.
Our steering racks don't typically die, their seals start leaking because there isn't enough cooling for the fluid. Flushing it regularly should improve its life
Should beGood to know!
Every 20k miles is good enough?
Nice, thanks for sharing. Do you know your caster? Imagine if you push the wheels forward you can further clear your rear fenders on the front. Might start touching the washer fluid reservoir but that’s pretty manageable.Updating on clearing the 35s 0 offset.
I just wheeled and flexed as much as it will go so I am finally happy to share.
I am sitting at 21.5 in the front and 23.75 in the rear currently
1. Pinch weld as far back as I could cut
2. Extended OEM front bump stops by .75 inches. Some washers and some welding.
3. Rear of the Front fender (slider side) folded in .75-1 inch.
4. Rear OEM bump stops extended .75 inches with spacer
5. Cut 1 inch off rear BIO bumper where it was rubbing on stuffage.
6. Clearing windshield washer fluid container w/o any trimming
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I am not sure the caster but it's in range for factory alignment due to the correction in the dobinson control arms. I've already folded in the fender so all is good now but could be a good option for othersNice, thanks for sharing. Do you know your caster? Imagine if you push the wheels forward you can further clear your rear fenders on the front. Might start touching the washer fluid reservoir but that’s pretty manageable.
Crazy how much articulation we get in the back isn't it???Updating on clearing the 35s 0 offset.
I just wheeled and flexed as much as it will go so I am finally happy to share.
I am sitting at 21.5 in the front and 23.75 in the rear currently
1. Pinch weld as far back as I could cut
2. Extended OEM front bump stops by .75 inches. Some washers and some welding.
3. Rear of the Front fender (slider side) folded in .75-1 inch.
4. Rear OEM bump stops extended .75 inches with spacer
5. Cut 1 inch off rear BIO bumper where it was rubbing on stuffage.
6. Clearing windshield washer fluid container w/o any trimming
View attachment 3613533
Yes it's epic! Running icon 2.0s and extended sway bar links now which is helping. They are a little bit longer than OME I was running before.Crazy how much articulation we get in the back isn't it???
Build thread for this rig?Kind of counts….I guess. 35’s. 80 frame. 100 body.
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Kind of counts….I guess. 35’s. 80 frame. 100 body.
Not yet, in the coming months there will be. Still very new to all thisBuild thread for this rig?