Since Rust seems to be a very very common theme in our work with these years, I decided to show you an application of a product that has been mentioned (a little) but not really out there like POR-15. It is called Rust Bullet and by all testings is supposed to be superior to POR. Moreover, it does not need a top coat AND it a two step process as opposed to four. I purchased a gallon of it online, a bunch of brushes and some thick rubber gloves. I am not going to do a "frame off" in the sense that the frame is coming apart, but I am doing a "body off" restoration and fealt that the brushes were the way to go. Several 3 inchers and several 1 inchers. At this point, the original tub is off so I have very good access to the frame, springs, body supports and cross members. I had the entire rear area steam cleaned to remove all dirt and loose rust. Then, I spent roughly 3 hours last night applying the first coat. A lot of smaller areas/detail areas that take some time e.g. diff, inside of body mount, underneath the frame rails. BUT in general it goes on very easily. IT is very toxic as in you cannot do this in a non ventilated area. Consistency is much like a varnish. Nothing like paint (that is what I thought it would be like and that is the reasoning behind the gallon purchase). First coat took about 2/3 of a quart (guessing). It is grey in color and dries to a metaliic grey finish. If it was not for the fact that my 40 is Olive Brown, I would leave it grey. But I am going to paint it flat black. You have to put on the second coat and that is after a 24 hour period. Then after another 24 hours, you can paint and no sanding or primer is needed. So far, I am very happy. The Bullet actually forms a hardened surface out of the rust i.e. it is nothing like painting rustoleum. With two coats plus paint, I think it is going to be a very very strong rust inhibitor. I will take pics tonight and post them for you. It is amazing what a clean frame will do to the aesthetics of a vehicle.
