- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
Very cool.
ROTW: Marmaduke HJ61 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter The Dude
- Start date
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Dude, freaking sic rig. 
Jealous. Damn.
- Thread starter
- #84
Thanks guys. Hopefully I will have and update on the truck before spring. I purchased an HJ60 with a 5spd to swap out the auto (and install the toybox I have on the garage floor!) and I have an exhaust brake to go on. Should be a busy couple of months!
Very nice rig. One of the most impressive I've seen
Do you know if Diamond can make a housing that uses the FZJ80 outers?
- Thread starter
- #87
Not sure as I never inquired about it.
I would imagine they could. Might have to call em though.
- Thread starter
- #89
I am not sure you get a significant upgrade if you go with the 80 series birfields?? And I believe (at the time anyway) your steering options were limited by using 80 series knuckles. Not sure if that is still the case.
I know they will throw on any knuckle balls you want, but I should have worded my post better. I meant 80 series rear FF outers so as to retain the disk service brakes and drum parking brake.
The 80 series birfs are a bit bigger and should therefore be stronger than the 60 series stuff. Tough thing is finding high steer for the 80 series knuckles.
Very nice rig! I have an 88 H61in need of some mods. Question about the old ARB bumper, you said that you had retained the PTO winch. Did it jut fit or was there some modification required to mount the ARB. Do you have any pics from that era?
- Thread starter
- #92
Thanks.
you have to modify the bumper, Cut the round tube cross member and redo the fairlead hole. If memory serves me.
Sorry, no old pics.
you have to modify the bumper, Cut the round tube cross member and redo the fairlead hole. If memory serves me.
Sorry, no old pics.
the dude...since i drive my 1989 hj61 last year your marmaduke is my refference...nice rig... i laready finish building up the engine now in mission to build the interior...can you share the sketch diagram how you install the 12v (3rd battery) and how control the charging of the 3rd battery. tq
- Thread starter
- #95
tq.... that mean the 3rd battery get charge from solar panel and altenator?...
i need a bit more guidance as this is my 1st time playing with solar panel.... ok the solar converter is it solar charge controler? .... the 12v switched and 12v constant (is this the converter 24v to 12v) and last one..... along the red line at one end is the keyed 24v where the red line end?... tq for ur help for beginners like me...
now the hardware i have is
1) solar panel
2) solar charge controller 12v 10 amp
3) dc to dc 24v to 12v 20 amp
4) 90 ah sealed battery
now the hardware i have is
1) solar panel
2) solar charge controller 12v 10 amp
3) dc to dc 24v to 12v 20 amp
4) 90 ah sealed battery
- Thread starter
- #99
Thanks Rigger!
Marmaduke is getting a long needed lowering. With all the additions over the years the "Duke had gotten too big and too heavy. All the bumpers are gone, drawer system is gone, leaf springs are gone. It redo time.
From this:
To something like this:
Back to a bigger tire, lower suspension, nicer armor and aluminum if possible.
Everything is getting ripped out, fixed, and replaced if needed.
Marmaduke is getting a long needed lowering. With all the additions over the years the "Duke had gotten too big and too heavy. All the bumpers are gone, drawer system is gone, leaf springs are gone. It redo time.
From this:
To something like this:
Back to a bigger tire, lower suspension, nicer armor and aluminum if possible.
Everything is getting ripped out, fixed, and replaced if needed.
- Thread starter
- #100
back end is cleaned out. I have 12" of wheel well in the back and 10" up front. Next up is removing the flares and the steering junk up front. Then out comes the axle and spring!
sitting at planned ride height. 22" to the frame on the front and 23" at the back. Optimistic I know, but we will try.
poser shot with the wheels rolled up.
it's tight under there.
Truck went up to 23.5" inches at the frame last night. It's just too tight with the design of the frame. I need to get the engine/frame higher and short of cutting the frame, I need to lift everything up.
It's still 4" lower then it was. I hope I can stay at this height. It just means I need bigger tires to fill the wheel well...
At the new height:
sitting at planned ride height. 22" to the frame on the front and 23" at the back. Optimistic I know, but we will try.
poser shot with the wheels rolled up.
it's tight under there.
Truck went up to 23.5" inches at the frame last night. It's just too tight with the design of the frame. I need to get the engine/frame higher and short of cutting the frame, I need to lift everything up.
It's still 4" lower then it was. I hope I can stay at this height. It just means I need bigger tires to fill the wheel well...
At the new height:
