ROTM locknload's '86 4Runner (1 Viewer)

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1986 4Runner

'86 4Runner
K&N
ENGBLDR 270 cam
LCE header, 2 1/4" exhaust
Flowmaster
4" SAS, armored front axle housing, 12" Bilsteins
35" Hankook DynaPros
Precision Gear 5.29's,
Marlin adapted duals w/4.7's in the rear case
FROR Twinsticks
Aussie front locker, LockRight rear locker
30 spline Longfield superaxles
Can-Back
Midland CB
Warn XD9000i w/ synthetic line

The story behind it. Some of this is from my build thread.


I used to have a real clean '81 Toyota 4x4 with a 3" lift, 33's, 4:88's and lockrights front and rear. It worked well but I moved to Florida and didn't see any mountains so I traded it off for a 5.0 Mustang. We anted out of Fl;orida and knew we'd end up near mountains so I started looking for a 1st generation 4Runner knowing full well kids were also in our future. Like everyone else I looked for a solid axle but found a super clean IFS so I went for it.

I started with an '86 4Runner SR5 with 134K on the clock. Bone stock except for the 30" BFG's. I even removed the hideous aluminum running boards before the first pic. Since it was a Forida truck it didn't have any rust and it was pretty clean to start with.

I sold the 30" AT's and bought some 31" MT's. Hardcore now. Then we moved to West Virginia. Ahhhh, mountains.

After my first trip to Paragon, I knew I needed some armor. Warning- Extreme flex pic below.

So began the building. I have a JD2 bender, four dies, Miller 175, torch set up, HF notcher, and had some free 1 1/4" Sch. 40 pipe on it's way.
I started with the front bumper, didn't want something really crazy so I kept it close to the body.

I added another center tube, painted it and called it good,

Rear bumper was next. The main hoop was 1 1/2" sch. 40 and the uppers are 1 1/4". Lateral supports are about one inch. I ended up added a receiver tube and a little extra support. I shortened the factory brackets, beveled the ends, welded and added a scab plate to the inside.

I wanted my sliders to be tucked close as I could picture myself eating s*** trying to get out in a hurry. Once I had a basic design, I went with a 25deg. rise. Used 4" scab plates pn the frame and some of that 1" tube for gussets. The notcher worked well for the angles needed.

They turned out to be very stout and have worked fine.

I wanted a little more storage in the rear so I fabbed up a cargo rack from 1/2" square tubing (yeah I have that die too). I made it mount completely internal so it will work with the top on as well. It's just high enough to get my gear boxes and cooler underneath.

So came the desire for SAS.
Here are some progress pics. 4" full TG w/ 5" rears. Hopefully it won't be a Stinkbug, if so I'll remove a leaf. Tomorrow a.m. I'll install the brake lines, bleed then turn it around and start the rear. I mounted the hanger 3/4" forward to get my shackles vertical per my call to TG. Sure looks like my axle moved forward more than 3/4". Thanks to Beaters levers, I finally got two tires mounted and will do the others tomorrow. Overall the install is not too bad. I hope the springs come down some after some use, it's a little tall.

Later CRAP!!

 

[locknload]

Couldn't wait any longer, had to see the height with tires, used 35's.

Mostly finished. It's raining all day Sunday so I'll do some more later. I think I need to move the rear shackle mounts back another inch to get a little less angle. About 32 deg. now, too much for a new spring. The front angle looks pretty good so I can finish stitching the hanger.
I really didn't expect this thing to be this big, I'd better start flexin' it and break in the springs.

I wheeled the Jambo 07 at RC with 35's and 4.11 diff. That sucked ASS! Smoking the clutch to get over a rock the slamming down on the other side. Not fun. For those who have been there you know what I mean.

I ordered PG 5.29's with solid spacers. Set up takes a while longer but the solid spacers don't move when you wheel like a crush collar can. I already had a LockRight in the back so I moved it up front and installed the new Aussie in the rear. I forgot what shims we used but we ended up with a decent pattern.

Wheeled at Crozet and though the 5.29's helped tremendously, like a crackhead... I needed MORE .






Ordered Marlins dual case adapter and gave Bud a call for one of his world famous crossmembers then had a party.

And no I didn't polish it before install :flipoff:.

Wheeled the Jambo in 08 and I don't know how I lived without duals. They made such a huge difference. Had I known this years ago, they would have been my second mod, right after a rear locker.

I picked up some 30 Spline Longs and a FROR twinstick. Marlin's front axles seals and three heavy duty detent springs are enroute. I should have 4.7's coming and will install the twinstick when those go in.

And now the twinsticks.
Since my hole cut for the single shifter was too wide I needed to insulate it a bit. I bought some cheapo floormats, trimmed them down and put two layers on the tunnel before adding some sheetmetal. Looks factory .

 

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Also made a shift boot metal bezel to keep the boot from tearing around the screws.

I traded that fancy cargo rack I made and some cash for a used Can-Back.
I also have the Can-Back roof racks but since I only have about an inch of clearance into the garage now, they stay off until I drop the truck. Needs a couple snaps but theprice was right so no biggie.

New 'used' Hankook DynaPros and soft top ready to go.

I bought a TG winch mount and started bending some pipe for a new front bumper. I made the ends a little wide so I could exo if I decide. Not sure but I may add a low wide stinger just for an exo tie. The height of the TG winch mount really makes it neccessary to have two tubes if you want the top tube tight to the grill.

Been doing some experimenting and lowered the stance a bit, not as much as I'd like but it's a start. I'd like to end up with a 25" to the frame measurement, started with 27 1/2".

I removed the bottom 2 leafs from the front but will replace the number two leaf and swap number three with a flat leaf and redrill the shackles about 1 1/2" higher.
Leaf number four was removed and we moved the axle forward one inch by using the rear perch hole. This centered the axle in the wheel well, it was set back one inch after the SAS. Donnie cut and beat the stock mudflap mounts and pinch weld up and out of the way, so with that and the axle moving forward we tested full stuff in my ditch. No rubbing! It was pretty bad before.

So after all this work we lowered the truck one inch. It doesn't sound like much but it sure looks different and every little bit counts. This will give me something to go by when I get the other leafs from Dopple. The front already feels a little more spongy w/o the two bottom leafs. Shackle angles improved a bit as well. Bi

Hard to tell but it really does look lower. 26 1/2" to the frame mid-door.

I never really set my front shocks/bumpstops up correctly. I had hardly any compression which made the truck very tippy. I used a rock near my house and pulled up on the side where I removed the bumpstop. This gave me a good idea where my shock shaft (travel) was when my spring flattened out. Although the pic kinda looks like the springs went a hair negative, they're pretty flat by my eye. I had two inches between the rubber stop on the ubolt plate and the frame so I cut one inch off the bumpstops which gave me a two inch bumpstops. I was on the stop in these pics with more stuffage of the left rear. It's crazy how much one inch makes. I gained compression and my tire must have gained four inches in the wheel well. Not to mention it no longer bottoms out on cigarette butts.
The truck feels sooooo much better now, much more stable. Before I cut these down, I couldn't of made the top of this rock without the left rear comming off the ground and becoming very tippy.

Look at the rear lear sliding over the shackle.

Latest mod was adding a Warn XD9000i with synthetc line. I got creative cutting the grill out as the TG winch mount positions the winch far back. Even had to tweak the power steering cooler line. I open the right side up more to allow room for a gloved hand to operate the clutch lever.

 

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Now for some action pics.

Crozet, Va

Pott's Jeep trail, Covington, Va

Rausch Creek, Pa

Moab, Ut

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Wow! That's a sweet rig right there! Makes me want to do bad things to mine!!!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Looks great! Excellent work.

 

[locknload]

Thanks guys.

 

[zombie]

Wow, nice set up. Makes me want to get a tube bender and some welding equipment.... maybe a welding course or too as well. Your truck really gives me something to aim for.

 

[Lost]

awesome flex your rig has

and sweet pictures!!

 

[corax]

Nice rig, looks like your not afraid to drive it long distance either. I always have more appreciation for non-trailer-queens . . . . . .

 

[locknload]

Thanks but I towed it to Moab. Three guys and all our gear/spare parts for a week would be a horrible trip in this truck, plus the Excursion handled the Rockys like they were flat.
If I'm going some place hard enough where I may break something or roll, I'll tow it because... I'm getting home. Not a complete trailer queen though, still fully registered and I'll drive it to areas within a few hours if I plan on going easy.
The funny thing is, my tow rig, also on 35's, gets a couple less mpg towing than me driving the 4Runner. So it's kind of a no brainer, leather seats, nice ride, and hauling ass up mountain grades. Sure, I'll tow it when I can.

Not just a tow rig. Also used for camping and it's my wife's daily driver.