Restoring Green Bean '82 FJ40

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by akingf5371, Apr 1, 2013.

  1. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    So, I've been kicking around the idea of restoring my '82 FJ40. I purchased it in August of 2011 and have been loving it ever since. It had a nice shiny coat of paint and low mileage, and was touted as a "rust free" cruiser. As I would soon come to find out, that was not the case. I have posted some other threads about the rust, and other repairs I've done.

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/702084-rusty-82-40-a.html

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/680247-dome-light-s.html

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/654843-dizzy-condition-help.html

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/633859-rear-heater-blues.html

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/592541-emissions-help-needed.html


    So, I have begun removing the poorly applied bedliner to get to the raw metal. Here is my game plan:

    1) Remove as much bedliner as possible to expose the metal
    2) Remove the tub and get it soda/sand blasted and primed
    3) Remove fenders/Cowl also to get blasted and primed
    4) Cut out the rusty parts and weld in Pacol patches
    5) Prime the areas and take every thing to paint
    6) Inspect and paint frame?
    7) Do any engine work (oil pan gasket?)
    8) Put it all back together



    This isn't going to be a super fast resto, I still have to make it to Cruise Moab Rising Sun's 4x4 Toyota event in May. I just thought I'd post up pictures as I got stuff done.

    The following pictures are of all the bedliner I've removed and what was underneath, looking for input on what exact patches I should order and such. (Did I mention I have 0 welding experience?) Thanks all!

    5)
    IMG_20130331_164501_176.jpg IMG_20130331_164518_857.jpg IMG_20130331_165658_436.jpg
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2013
  2. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Here are some pictures of the bed and such.
    IMG_20130331_165707_176.jpg IMG_20130331_185752_852.jpg IMG_20130331_185803_257.jpg
  3. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    I've been using a hammer, chisel and vice grips. Also, the GF has been helping me out as well!
    IMG_20130331_185814_175.jpg IMG_20130331_185820_599.jpg
  4. coinoperated40

    coinoperated40

    Messages:
    587
    Location:
    Salisbury, N.C.
    I don't know if you can order anything for the wheel well where just the brackets are rusted through. If the rest of that area looks sound, I would look for some doner parts and just cut and weld in new brackets and metal. Those places are bad for collecting water/rust. Maybe the pictures aren't showing it as bad in the other areas as it is.
    Did the heat gun help with the liner removal?
  5. Michael Hanson

    Michael Hanson

    Messages:
    7,380
    Location:
    Plano texas
    Wow! Hope you did not pay a lot.Someone really lied to you. Looks like you are doing it right. Mike
  6. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    I know there are small patches for that ripped section I should be able to buy that would work.. It's not rusted through any where,besides the wheel well, the floorboards and the back part of the bed. The head gun helped a little, nothing drastic but it did help it come up in sheets.
  7. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    More than I should have... that's for sure.
  8. Michael Hanson

    Michael Hanson

    Messages:
    7,380
    Location:
    Plano texas
    I see more cover ups these days, too much money to be made on these now. If its been reprinted its something to be looked at very closely. Mud is not a sure bet any more as it was in years past, but nothing is these days. Mike
  9. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO

    I bought the 40 before I even knew of MUD. I stumbled on it while looking for solutions to my emissions problems. I agree, shiny paint is a reason to be suspicious. As far as paying so much, I consider it my "fine" for assuming to much and just going on gut. All that aside it has been a great cruiser besides that.
  10. bigfj62

    bigfj62

    Messages:
    514
    Location:
    Western, SD
    Is that fiberglass in the floorboard I see?? I have fiberglass patched from the PO in mine. I am still seeing how they hold up over time. For now I am just enjoying using it (except right now axle tore apart for disk upgrade) paying to much attention to the body.
  11. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    You spy correctly! There is fiberglass in the front floorboards a little scattered throughout the tub. It held up well, but since it is still rusting through the bottom, the problem isn't really solved. So, I like to fix problems only once, so I stripping it down to metal!

  12. coinoperated40

    coinoperated40

    Messages:
    587
    Location:
    Salisbury, N.C.
    Your tools are just like mine... They don't do anything by themselves, just lay around waiting...
    Let's see some progress

    [​IMG]
  13. Greek Cruiserhead

    Greek Cruiserhead

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Greece,Germany
    It took me almost two years and a quite a lot of $$$,to (frame-off) restore my 1984 BJ42...
    so I know what lays ahead of you:wrench: and wish you good luck by your resto!!!:)
  14. coinoperated40

    coinoperated40

    Messages:
    587
    Location:
    Salisbury, N.C.
    I don't know if you have finished taking off the liner, but I used the $29.00 harbor freight multipurpose tool today and thought about how that might work on the liner. The tinn blades just vibrate and remove stuff.
  15. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    What tool is that? Is it pneumatic or electric? Any help would be awesome.
  16. Larr75fj40

    Larr75fj40

    Messages:
    367
    Location:
    Garden Grove, OC- CA
    Mine is shinny:rolleyes:
  17. coinoperated40

    coinoperated40

    Messages:
    587
    Location:
    Salisbury, N.C.
    It's electric with variable speed. Goes on sale every month. Made by Chicago, I think.
    Most the blades wear out fast, but then they are smooth and work good for cutting into things like silicone around windows.
    Check in the tool section, they are always showing the latest HF coupons.
    Shane
  18. akingf5371

    akingf5371

    Messages:
    724
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Started digging back into this over the weekend. The PO butchered the rear quarters and I destroyed the tip of my HF impact driver.
    SAM_1787.jpg SAM_1788.jpg SAM_1786.jpg
  19. cbmontgo

    cbmontgo SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,873
    Location:
    Colorado
    Subscribed.
  20. N919HJ

    N919HJ SILVER Star

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Ohio
    I looking forward to seeing this progress. Thanks for sharing. I hope you don't find anymore surprises.

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