Block of wood , big hammer n a good eye will fix it quick . You'll have to hit it harder than expected , that's not exactly thin sheet metal .
Sarge
Sarge
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A little work done this weekend. I cut off the monstrosity of a tow hitch that was welded to the frame. I might cut off the tail and re-install it, but jury is still out on that. It was pretty rust and the PO made swiss cheese out of my rear cross member. I can't tell how many extra holes there are, but I think at least 4. Hard to see in these pictures but I found a rust hole in my rear sill, I think it's around the drain hole? Not 100% sure if that's correct but it looks like a round oval that is rusted out.
It was a beast. The mechanic who inspected the 40 prior to my purchase told me to never let anyone talk me out of that hitch, it is bullet proof.
I found some bondo in my hood. Is something that can be repaired or am I better off looking for a later model hood?
Here is my 82 frame and tub. as the years went by Toyota had fewer and fewer hole in the back frame member.
I would disagree with him. Seen many rear frame members bent because of a trailer hinge. Modern receiver hitches bolt to the side frame rails. On the FJ40 the spring perches prevent you from doing that. I removed at least three hitch that were attached to side rails install of the center torque tubs. Since I don't tow anything heavier than 1/4 ton trailer I'm happy with just the stock pintle hook. Here one off my 70. Really not a bad idea. Spread out across the rear frame member plus protected the tail lights. I got lucky and only a small part of one of the extra holes shows behind the left reflector.
I have come across this problem a few times. Haven't had the pieces pop riveted on. The cause is the hood sitting to far forward. Very common on a FJ40. Key is to have the front lip as close to the rubber pads as possible. Also important to have all the pads on the bib to spread the weight of the hood out. If your hood is rusted out you may be better off getting a replacement hood. If its just bent it can be worked out. For me I just had to use C clamps with blocks of wood to straighten it back to stock.
Thanks Matt! You're telling me. I thought I had bought a truck that was too complete to be a project, but oh well. Lesson learned I suppose.I'll be borrowing your heat gun if I have to remove fiberglass from mine
Good work Adam, too bad it has required so much work based on how it was advertized
...via IH8MUD app
Have fun! I'll never understand the logic behind glassing something over as opposed to either leaving it or welding in the a patch. More pictuers coming soon!Dang, all that fiberglaas reminds of something... ow i know.. my own DS floor and doorsill. I'll be keeping tabs to see how you fix this. Good luck on the learning curve. I'm sure it will turn out great
Hello Adam,
Excellent progress on the truck thus far. Doing all the right stuff. The rust will be 10 times worse than you think. I am in the middle of an 1981 repair and panels I thought would be ok were just iffy, panels I thought might be salavagble were shot and needed replacement, panels I knew needed repair just crumbled.... What you are seeing is the tip of the iceburg, these things rot from the inside out, wherever there is a seam with spot welds, it will be rusted. Get ready for lots of decisions, I always found best made while staring at my truck with a couple cold ones thinking omg what have I signed up for.
Awesome, thread, I have subscribed!!! Keep it up, stay at it... Don't be like me, 4 years in and still removing panels... LOL. Check out my thread if you wish (should be in my signature), PM me if there is anyway my experience might help.... Our trucks look to be almost identical in rust condition... Take care and good luck...
Great work. When I was welding my '80 FJ40 panels and blew a few holes in thin areas (or due to too-high a voltage setting), I would build back toward the hole by attaching a blob of weldment to the existing welds (which are thicker), and work my way back across the thin area.
This take a gentle touch and some practice, but you can fairly elegantly close up holes and grind down the weldment and 'fix' your blown holes this way.
I wouldn't obsess about it. You should have enough engagement of the weldment. You will likely find some 'missed' areas after the sandblasting and have to re-weld those anyway. I rarely had any decent access to the back side to check weld quality or penetration.
Reply #350 on this page (link follows) shows how his 'back side' welds are as pretty as his front side welds. I wish mine looked half this good. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53534&page=18
To check weld integrity, in a darkened garage, I would shine a strong light from the backside of any area you welded, and be sure that your welds don't show any voids on the front side.
Also, when you're all done and painted, it's imperative that you treat the back side of those rusted areas with paint (Hammerite or something like that) and grease those areas to prevent future rust.