Dizzy Condition Help (1 Viewer)

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Gurus-
So, I'm just replacing the plugs and rotor/cap on my '82 40 per a suggestion from a fellow 40 owner and when I pulled the dizzy cap off this is what greeted me! Corrosion! How does this look to you guys?? What should I do to clean it? Thanks!!
2012-11-19_14-53-59_180.jpg
 
I know someone has an opinion somewhere! This is all new to me!
 
Hey Adam, I'm not a distributor expert by any means, but the auto parts stores have electric parts cleaners available - not sure if those would touch rust/corrosion though.
 
Yeah, I have a can in the garage.. I don't think it would either... would have nice clean rust though!
 
That is pretty serious damage.
It is caused by a failure of the dissy cap ventilation system.

Yeah, when I got the truck both ports were open to atmosphere... fixed, but too late
 
FWIW, the 'open to atmo'was only half the problem.

See the way the black fibre/plastic cover on the electronics is melted away, leaving behind the white fibers?
That is the result of the resin being attacked/vaporized by the ionized oxygen that is present inside the dissy. The vent system forces air to move through the sealed dissy, preventing the buildup of ionized gas.

The advance mechanisms are probably both inoperative. Better get busy looking for another 81-87 dissy.
 
Jim-
Wow that bad!? It was running pretty well with this dizzy... crazy stuff! So even with it exposed to atmosphere, since the air wasn't being forced through it, it wasn't venting the gases and were just wrecking it? Or was it closed off at some point, you think?
 
It certainly looks bad. The whole breaker plate is supposed to rotate on a ball bearing ring. Try using the mityvac to pull on the vac advance fittings, see if the advance diaphragms hold vacuum (probably damaged by ionization), and see if the breaker plate even moves (probably rusted in place).

SOR is listing the 1967 points dissy as fitting all years of cruiser.
There is no rational reason to spend $350 to downgrade to a points distributor.
 
There is no rational reason to spend $350 to downgrade to a points distributor.

+1, if you're going to buy a new distributor anyway, buy an FJ60 distributor and side cover. You can find them in the classifieds here on Mud for a lot cheaper than a Spector dissy.
 
He already has an FJ60 (81-87 2F) dissy and side cover. So all that's needed is a dissy that's not melted inside.

Sorry, I missed that in the thread!
 
Adam, if you want to do the pick and pull thing then I bet Yota Jim's has a handful of FJ60s with 2Fs on hand...looks like the only one SOR has is 022-01I-U, which is the used one for $275...

Marks Offroad lists one on his website for $500, you'd have to call to check availability.
 
Wow, here's yours:
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For comparison, here's what a clean one looks like on the inside:
attachment.php
 
Matt, that is a huge difference! It looks like mine has something connected to the stud at about 8 o'clock on the dizzy face. I wonder what that is? I am going to check out Yota Jim's today and grab one there or at Rocky Mountain Cruisers. Thanks for the help guys, my next question is this, anything I should keep in mind when switching these out?
 
oil pressure.

Haha, I do remember that! Can never be too cautious with making sure it is seated all the way. I'll make sure to make some markings on the depth of the old one prior to removal.
 
You don't hafta worry abouyt depth with the 81-later dissy. The mounting ear is cast on the dissy. The disy must fully seat into the block, so the mounting ear is down on the deck. If there is a gap, then the dissy shaft is not lined up w/ the oil pump slot.

If going to the JY, take a mityvac with you to verify that you get a good vac advancer. New ones are discontinued mostly, and 'spensive if you find somebody that still has one.
 

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