OUCH! Anybody else have this happen? (1 Viewer)

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westafari

Sand Cruiser
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Threads
10
Messages
210
Location
Roanoke, VA
I've been keeping an eye on this crusty spot in my PS rear wheel well. Got back from a trip the other day and noticed it had broken loose. Wasn't too concerned until I realized it's the seatbelt attachment point. I haven't started peeling back carpet to see the full extent of the problem yet. Anybody else have to deal with this one? I'd love to hear about some first hand experience with the fix. Until I get that fixed that seat will be reserved for those who need to meet the reaper.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1432906080.573121.jpg
 
Wow. Always wondered what that was for. I have a bit of rust around mine as well. I guess it is time to start rust remediation there as well.
 
Wow. That is bad. Yes, mine was bad, so I cut out the bad section and welded in some new 12 gauge metal on Foo. Primed with epoxy and bedlined with raptor.
 
Yeah, I thought it was a body mount or something. The surrounding wheel well area seems solid, I guess I 'm gonna peel back the carpet and see what the inside looks like. There's gotta be something structural under there for the seatbelt anchor.
 
Wow. That is bad. Yes, mine was bad, so I cut out the bad section and welded in some new 12 gauge metal on Foo. Primed with epoxy and bedlined with raptor.

So you welded new sheet inside the wheel well?
 
I pulled all carpet out and seats, cut out the bad section and welded in new stainless steel piece from the inside. I really dislike tig welding upside down. Stainless, as I did not want to have to deal with it rusting ever again and I had a chunk about the right size.

The captured nut side of the seat belt is really just a huge washer, so I cleaned it up and reused it.
 
If you install a new piece over it, make sure that it is round if at all possible. A square or rectangular piece will punch a hole in a collision, where a round piece will have to stretch and pull through before it relieves.
 
If you install a new piece over it, make sure that it is round if at all possible. A square or rectangular piece will punch a hole in a collision, where a round piece will have to stretch and pull through before it relieves.

really? then why is the stock one square? not trying to be a smart ass just curious....
 
I've been keeping an eye on this crusty spot in my PS rear wheel well. Got back from a trip the other day and noticed it had broken loose. Wasn't too concerned until I realized it's the seatbelt attachment point. I haven't started peeling back carpet to see the full extent of the problem yet. Anybody else have to deal with this one? I'd love to hear about some first hand experience with the fix. Until I get that fixed that seat will be reserved for those who need to meet the reaper.

View attachment 1083805
Sorry for the off topic question, but what tire is that? Is that the Kanati Trail Dog?
 
The stock one is (was) anchored a bit better and was integral to the body. Since you will be welding on it and creating a heat affected zone, it changes the metal properties and may not be as strong as it once was.

The primary point is: Use rounded corners or completely round, because points on corners act like can-openers. It's cheap and easy to shear a square or rectangle and weld it on.

If you look a the original one the SHAPE of it is rectangular, but it was formed into the body with all rounded corners and no sharp points. it would have to completely deform to pull itself through (unless it rusted through.......)

If you look at many of the aftermarket seat belt replacement parts, the use a 3/16" thick circle with 2 sides broke up to make something that LOOKS like a rectangle, but isn't because the ends are rounded.
 
If you look at many of the aftermarket seat belt replacement parts, the use a 3/16" thick circle with 2 sides broke up to make something that LOOKS like a rectangle, but isn't because the ends are rounded.

So, you're saying there's an aftermarket replacement part for that? Or was that a generalized statement?
 
That is a real eye opener, I really haven't seen much of that kind of stuff on land cruisers, but it's a great catch. I for one don't have to worry about it for a while. When I did my fender trim in the rear I removed all of the undercoating to make it easier to blend my work into the wheel well, but I'm sure there are a lot of members that this post has inspired to go look at their rigs.
 
Yeah I noticed my anchor points looking rather bad the other day. It's on my to do list. I have some 40mm round 3mm thick steel pucks I'm thinking of using.
 

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