Nut & Bolt Frame-Off 1978 FJ40 Restoration (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My front calipers will need to re replaced. I was going to buy a reman from RockAuto or the like.

Lash mentioned something to me a few months ago, about upgrading the calipers to larger 4-Runner calipers; he said they were plug and play. I can't seem to find any info on mud though, and what I can find suggest that there is much more required than just replacing calipers (hub swaps, etc.)

Can anyone shine some light on this for me?
 
fountainhead said:
Man, those bumper gussets are pitted...I'd scrap the whole project.
Click to expand...

They had the worst rust from the whole project. Luckily they were completely blasted and PC'd, so they won't be getting any worse. They'll also be covered by a pretty new OE bumper, so you'll never see it anyways.
 
MScruiser said:
My front calipers will need to re replaced. I was going to buy a reman from RockAuto or the like.

Lash mentioned something to me a few months ago, about upgrading the calipers to larger 4-Runner calipers; he said they were plug and play. I can't seem to find any info on mud though, and what I can find suggest that there is much more required than just replacing calipers (hub swaps, etc.)

Can anyone shine some light on this for me?
Click to expand...

I went back all OEM equivalent parts house stuff, and it stops on a dime. Brakes are almost too good. You'll be fine doing the same.
 
Not plug-&-play, but close.

Pretty sure OEM calipers are 2 piston.

1993 SR5 V6 4Runner calipers are 4 piston and larger. This requires slight trimming of the backing plate. I used the same rotors, master, booster, etc as before the upgrade. Slightly bigger pads/calipers and more clamping force from the 4 pistons. I bought reman loaded calipers and used old ones as the core.

Since then I have gone rear discs, prop valve, line locks, and FJ80 non-ABS Master. Brakes work great! I've added a lot of weight to my 40, so improving the brakes makes sense.

Parking brake, on the other hand...
 
Last edited:
If you must stay stock! No upgrades! lol
 
Started pulling apart the front axle. Thanks to @euclid for letting me borrow his bigass socket.

image.jpeg


Wire wheeled and ready for blasting:
image.jpeg


I'll leave the 3rd member in place while I blast. After blasting, I'll disassemble, clean, then inspect. Then comes paint, and I'll use new zinc and cad hardware, new bearings, felts, seals, races, etc.

Speaking of races; think these needed to be replaced? Lol.

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Awesome.

Will do.
 
Blasted the front axle this morning. As per @wngrog 's suggestion, I will switch out third members with the rear and will blast again. Then comes paint.

I've got new pinion seals from @wct49 , and new seal flanges from SOR.

image.jpeg


image.jpeg


image.jpeg


image.jpeg


Oh, and good news: the front diff oil was actually still oil and not sludge. A very good sign!
 
Last edited:
While I was blasting the front axle, I figured I'd also take the opportunity to blast the headers too.

Decided to paint the headers with VHT ceramic header paint, which was very well reviewed, and supposedly withstands temps up to 1200 degrees.

image.jpeg
 
Put a dab of FIPG (RTV) on the threads of the pinion nut when you install the new seals. Oil will wick down the threads and you will always have a slight leak if you don't.
 
Bossman said:
Put a dab of FIPG (RTV) on the threads of the pinion nut when you install the new seals. Oil will wick down the threads and you will always have a slight leak if you don't.
Click to expand...

Awesome. This kind of advice is what this build needs. These type of things would otherwise go unlooked.
 
Olive brown (the lighter and earlier shade of olive brown)
 
  • Like
Reactions: dnp
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom