Nut & Bolt Frame-Off 1978 FJ40 Restoration (1 Viewer)

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No, I didn't check the inside, but per instructions I read on MUD, I shot compressed air through the purge port to ensure there was no blockage.
 
Clutch master cylinder rebuild/restore.

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Heater duct

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Did you actually rebuild this or just pull it apart and clean it? I used one I had in my pile. Hope it's fine.
Really? If that works it will be an "only you" situation.
 
I use my bench grinder wire wheel on that kind of bolt.

I stuck mine in my vibratory number. Came out spotless.
Yeah, both methods have their benefits. However, getting into small spaces can be difficult, if not impossible, with either of the above. Evapo-Rust is just one more tool in the restoration arsenal.

As an example: The clamp on the top was so rusty and corroded I almost threw it away. The one on the bottom is brand new from Toyota.
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Did you actually rebuild this or just pull it apart and clean it? I used one I had in my pile. Hope it's fine.

Pulled it apart.
 
Really? If that works it will be an "only you" situation.

It was new. I had 4 of them but this one had the right firewall bolt pattern.

I'll be on go to buy a new one if I need to.

Who makes the best replacement clutch master or are they all Chinese junk now?
 
It was new. I had 4 of them but this one had the right firewall bolt pattern.

I'll be on go to buy a new one if I need to.

Who makes the best replacement clutch master or are they all Chinese junk now?
aisin
 
Brake master cylinder restore:

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The heater duct... new or restore? I'm away from my 40 right now so I can't compare but I seem to think that is either soft or hard plastic. If it is, did you paint it or use a restorative conditioner type product to get it black (mines faded)? Details please..
 
Mine is hard plastic.

Cleaned mine with scotchbrite pad and simple green. Then painted with a rustoleum aerosol paint used for black plastic car upholstery.
 
Why are you not doing the peanut butter thing on the plastics?

Peanut butter is only a temporary fix. I did the PB trick in April. When I went up in my attic to grab some parts, I saw they were fading again. Also PB'd the steering wheel center, but faded again after a few days.
 
PB is messy...but it works.....although i have seriously considered painting mine lately.....it's got a few scratches on it and would sure benefit from the paint.....

the blower as well...but im afraid that ive spoaked so much PB and coconut oil on it that i'd never get it prepped well enough to paint....
 
Did a little work in the frame, installing steering box, gussets, and tow hooks with zinc chromate grade 8 hardware.

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You guys got me all worried about this engine (@dnp and @Bodean ) so I decided I had to check things out before everything went back together.

Bought a leak down tester, and checked each cylinder.

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The bad news: each cylinder appears to be leaking.

The good news: All leaks were either from the exhaust or intake valves. i.e. There was no air escaping from the oil filler cap, dipstick, or cooling system. I spoke to @offr0adlim0 and he said that the above indicated that the piston rings were fine. I also visually and physically (by touch) inspected the cylinder walks for ridges while installing the oil pan (didn't see anything either).

Sounds like once the engine gets up and running again, a valve adjustment will get things back to where they need to be.

On a different note, I was contacted by @wct49 the day before yesterday. Looks like I'll be able to pick up my lift, tires, and front axle rebuild kit early next week. Woohoo.

Now it's time to start disassembling the axle and blasting/painting/powdercoating where necessary.
 

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