NOOB: FJ60 2F Oil change how to (1 Viewer)

[psulick3]

I looked around the forum here for a while and I couldn't find an oil change how to. I've done oil changes on all my cars but they have all been modern vehicles with VERY clearly marked drain plugs and oil fill ports. I've found the drain plug as it's pretty hard to miss, but I'm not sure where the oil fill port is located. Of course I've found the filter and dipstick and I've research the oil weight and filter type to purchase from the helpful advice on this site. If anyone could help out that would be fantastic. Thanks!

 

[MickTLC]

Filler is right on the top front of the valve cover. Keep in mind the capacity is 8 quarts so you'll need a container large enough to hold that much. From personal experience, it's a bummer using a smaller container and having it overflow...

 

[micruz60]

Oil filler cap is at the front top of the aluminum valve cover. ^^ beat me to it.
Did the rig have an owners manual? Simple instructions in that...
Also, you should get the FSM free downloads off this site.
Search " for sale, 40, 50, 60 series manuals for a helluva price "

 

[micruz60]

For Sale: - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

 

[psulick3]

This?

 

[Spike Strip]

USE THE CORRECT HIGH ZDDP OIL..

Use a new copper or fiber gasket on the drain plug with a little dab of RTV to help stop leaks. Don't over tighten.

Use lots of paper towels around the oil filter when you remove it as a lot of oil will spill.

 

[psulick3]

Thanks for the info!

 

[fjc-man]

Drop the drain plug and oil into a 3 gallon bucket, it comes out real fast.

 

[psulick3]

Anyone have a good source for a new drain plug gasket? What's the torque spec?

 

[Spike Strip]

You can either get the Toyota ones, or got to Vatozone, Pepboys (racists), NAPA, etc and buy a pack of the right-size drain plug gaskets. Someone else may have to chime in what size, as I forget 'cuz I drank too much Ouzo last night!

Should you want to:

 

[Spike Strip]

Also, you really need to spend lots of time here:

FJ60 and FJ62 FAQ ********* start here and come back often *********

 

[Longfinger]

After draining oil, use a punch or nail to knock a hole in the top of the oil filter to vent and allow better drainage of the filter before removing it.

 

[Spike Strip]

After draining oil, use a punch or nail to knock a hole in the top of the oil filter to vent and allow better drainage of the filter before removing it.

FWIW, I did this a few times and it works, sort of, but I've since read that you possibly could be putting filtered contaminants back into the crankcase with this method. I don't know enough about oil filters to say one way or the other, but just the possibility of it made me switch back to the messy way... Just sayin' ...

 

[Output Shaft]

How to avoid "The messy 2F Oil Filter Removal" experience:

Get a pair of heavy duty neoprene protective gloves. My favorite are "Bluettes". The oil is hot.

After the oil has been drained from the pan and only a few drip, drip, drips remain, replace the plug.

Up in the engine compartment, wrap a rag (disposable) or wads of paper towels around the base of the oil filter to catch any "possible" spillage.

Break free the oil filter but don't unscrew it. I use one of those constrictive clamps that can accept a 3/8" extension from a wrench.

Then remove the clamp and start unscrewing the filter by hand. It won't leak out oil as long as the center bore is still in contact with threaded post on the engine filter mount.

Then when you feel that the filter is about to unscrew all the way and be free of the threaded fitting, quickly, and I mean quickly, slide your other hand's middle finger under the filter and plug the filter center hole with said finger as you lift the filter.

If you're quick, you won't dribble but a few drops on the rag below.

If you're not, God save your driveway.

 

[psulick3]

One last question if anyone knows, the PO gave the 2F a shaved head and an RV cam. Would this require any special oil or additive? Per the PO's recommendation I fuel up with premium for the shaved head.

 

[UZJ100LC]

USE THE CORRECT HIGH ZDDP OIL..

Use a new copper or fiber gasket on the drain plug with a little dab of RTV to help stop leaks. Don't over tighten.

Use lots of paper towels around the oil filter when you remove it as a lot of oil will spill.

thanks for the info Spike Strip. Are you using the RTV around the copper crush washer?

 

[Garrissey]

It's the cap that reads "710."

 

[Spike Strip]

thanks for the info Spike Strip. Are you using the RTV around the copper crush washer?

Yes. Every time.

 

[FishTacos]

One last question if anyone knows, the PO gave the 2F a shaved head and an RV cam. Would this require any special oil or additive? Per the PO's recommendation I fuel up with premium for the shaved head.

ZDDP additive. This really has nothing to do with the head and the type of cam you're running is also immaterial. These engines have solid tappet lifters and added zinc reduces wear to both the cam and lifter. I use two 15 Oz. bottles on every oil change which accounts for just under one quart of your needed oil.