In my personal opinion, yes, you made a mistake. Id sell it without putting a cent or minute of time into it. If you lose a little money, its worth it to be rid of it. You will forget about that soon enough. Cut your losses.
New 80 series owner - Did I make a Mistake? (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter UPNorthBckWoods
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 80 series landcruiser owner series
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
Perches don't look that horrible to me, but hard to tell overall. Just remember on the shocks that they do nothing for ride height...they may make a temporary height adjustment when you install them without springs, but the springs are what control height, shocks just keep them from bouncing too much. I'd look for some OEM height springs and basic shocks and it will make a huge difference in the ride.
One note, the thing that could make this a nightmare is if you break a lower shock bolt and have to drill it out. I'd put OEM new lower bolts in there at a minimum (not expensive) without question if you do the spring and/or shock upgrades. It'd probably be worth the time to try and take those lower bolts out before you have a pile of parts ready to install...as I said it can be one of those 3 days instead of 3 minutes projects if they snap.
I know this well!! The lower shock bolts just keep the lower part of the shock on the axle mount. If these bolts are original…….go slow and use penetrating lube. Heat could be used directly on the bolt but the lower part of the shock really prohibits using lots of heat.
- Thread starter
- #44
I know there are many posts on here about suspension/ lifts, but I just wanted to ask a couple questions to confirm what I've found reading a number of them.
It seems like if you are sticking to a 2" lift or less you can:
1) use stock oem shocks from Toyota which = Tokico;
2) while caster corrections adaptations are preferred, often aren't absolutely necessary.
3) Do I need swaybar extensions?
The reason I ask is the best deal I can find currently on coils are Ironman 4x4, but they are only available in a 2" lift or greater. People have suggested stock height OME, but it appears the quality is comparable, and the cost savings is around $150+ on 2 sets . I don't mind the lift, as long as I don't need to turn too many more rusty bolts or spend $100+ extra to do it. And I like green! I will be driving with 1 to 2 adults and 2 kids on road the majority of the time. Off road would be very occasionally seasonal forest roads and 2 tracks but possibly with 7 adults +/- hitch mount bike rack with 7 bikes. No bolt on costant load accessories planned at this point. Stock load medium or the medium+ coils for the rears?
Been watching classifieds, haven't tried a want add yet.
I plan to try putting it in low range and see if the diff locks work before I decide if I'll bother with shocks. I'm afraid something bad might happen so I'm going to wait until my wife's DD gets back from the shop Friday. Don't want to be down 2 vehicles...
Thanks again for all the insight and feedback so far.
It seems like if you are sticking to a 2" lift or less you can:
1) use stock oem shocks from Toyota which = Tokico;
2) while caster corrections adaptations are preferred, often aren't absolutely necessary.
3) Do I need swaybar extensions?
The reason I ask is the best deal I can find currently on coils are Ironman 4x4, but they are only available in a 2" lift or greater. People have suggested stock height OME, but it appears the quality is comparable, and the cost savings is around $150+ on 2 sets . I don't mind the lift, as long as I don't need to turn too many more rusty bolts or spend $100+ extra to do it. And I like green! I will be driving with 1 to 2 adults and 2 kids on road the majority of the time. Off road would be very occasionally seasonal forest roads and 2 tracks but possibly with 7 adults +/- hitch mount bike rack with 7 bikes. No bolt on costant load accessories planned at this point. Stock load medium or the medium+ coils for the rears?
Been watching classifieds, haven't tried a want add yet.
I plan to try putting it in low range and see if the diff locks work before I decide if I'll bother with shocks. I'm afraid something bad might happen so I'm going to wait until my wife's DD gets back from the shop Friday. Don't want to be down 2 vehicles...
Thanks again for all the insight and feedback so far.
How about used stock height OME from a rust-free state? I have a set collecting dust.
If you prefer OEM coils, I am pretty sure I still have all 4 I took off when I put OME on my old 80 series at about 147000 miles They are free to a good home. Take Godwin’s first as that’s a better set.
If you use it offroad, the stock shocks will limit suspension travel quite a bit.
A 2" lift can flex A LOT with some mods to shock towers and longer shocks
this will vary from vehicle to vehicle, but a 2" lift will topically put you right around 0⁰ caster, aka wobbly shopping cart territory
Again, if using the vehicle offroad, sway bar extensions are beneficial, without, youll max or flex faster, and more chance you'll break something. On road, less essential but probably still a good idea
I have stock height 30 year old springs you can have. Fresh out of my 93.
Pay my airfare, I'll deliver them to your door
Dobinsons do stock height replacement springs.
I know there's a US supplier on mud, can't think of username right now.
Ironman are kind of middle of the road quality at best in general IMO.
Anything Ironman would not be my choice. YMMV your mileage and budget might vary
CrabCake
SILVER Star
If it were me, on your truck I'd stick with stock height new springs and shocks...no change in OEM geometry but will probably net you 1.5" lift just by getting your saggy OEM's off of there. Just remember, even if they "look good", a 150k mile spring is still old and had thousands of pounds sitting on it for 25+ years. Not trying to poo on the OEM take off's that have been offered, but I'd just get new if you are going through the trouble, but that's me. Get some OEM length/quality shocks too...ride will be a night and day improvement over what you have now without question, and is still extremely capable off road in stock form.
For the Dobinson's stuff, it's @crikeymike with Exit Offroad...he gave me very good advice on my setup and I'm sure would be happy to chat with you too...that said, lots of other great vendors on here too such as @cruiseroutfit and others that I happily support.
Update note:
@Godwin may have a good set used...if they are OME, then most likely they haven't been under load for 25+ years!
For the Dobinson's stuff, it's @crikeymike with Exit Offroad...he gave me very good advice on my setup and I'm sure would be happy to chat with you too...that said, lots of other great vendors on here too such as @cruiseroutfit and others that I happily support.
Update note:
@Godwin may have a good set used...if they are OME, then most likely they haven't been under load for 25+ years!
BGMachine
Working on cars I can't afford
If you can get OE coils, that will help tremendously. You're on the bump stops so that's got to be one harsh ride.
A friend and I down here in the Ann Arbor / Detroit area have 80's. He just did his lift a couple months ago. he may still have his springs. I'm planning on lifting mine later this winter / spring. If you're willing to wait, you could have those. I'll ask my buddy if he still has his old coils.
On the rust note, I had a silver '97 from this area and it was fairly crusty underneath. the engine block looked like it had been underwater for decades. The rear windows were rusted shut / leaked. I had to fight rust with it for every repair. I gave up on it when the wiring harness corroded too much causing all sorts of fun.
I guess what I'm saying is that I feel for ya. it's a tough spot to be in and it's very hard to find nice cruisers in MI (especially the UP). I just grabbed a '95 from South Carolina and it's sunburnt but no rust. it's a breath of fresh air compared to the rust belt.
If you're near Houghton, I've got an acquaintance there that helped me with my M715 a couple summers ago when my wheel bearing blew up on a trip. he loves old Toyotas and owns his own 4x4 repair shop. he'd probably cut you a good deal for work or you may be able to work with him and learn. His name is Nate
The man, the myth, the legend: Nate
- Thread starter
- #50
That sounds like potentially a safer option. I'll send you a PM
- Thread starter
- #51
I am near Houghton and have been unsure who to bring this thing to for service that I'm leary to do myself, especially given the rust.
That is the dilema because I need a DD at the moment and sort of fell into this. I like the vehicle a lot and think it could be a fun reasonable DD. I'm headed out west in about 3 weeks and while the majority of 80's out there are well built in the $20k - $30k range, there are some rust free stock options for $10k to $15k. I'd hate to spend $12k on a rust free example to bring back here and put in the salt. My wife thinks I have enough vehicles I won't let on the winter roads already....
BGMachine
Working on cars I can't afford
it wouldn't be a bad plan to bring a clean one back. I haven't driven my latest one yet in the winter (bad trans), but I plan on oiling the undercarriage every season to preserve it. that should go a long way.
Ultimately, the rust thing is your call. could maybe sell the truck to someone that wants a trail rig and doesn't mind it being crusty. I don't know what you paid for it but unfortunately you're right, rust free, higher mileage, good condition trucks are in the 12-15k range. And they usually have 260,000mi or so on them. And at that point, to repeat what someone else said, they're old enough where all of the rubber parts are starting to fail, things are wearing out, head gasket failures become prevalent, etc.
If you want me to give you Nate's info, I can ask him if he'd be willing to help you out
- Thread starter
- #53
Yes please check with Nate about passing his contact info along to me. It'd be nice to have some experienced help when I inevitably get in over my head.
BGMachine
Working on cars I can't afford
I would make a serious plan to address the rust and rot, before it turns into full rot and ruins the truck.
We had one here recently where we guided the owner to a great place who did amazing work.
See for yourself, before & after (metal brush scrubbed, dry ice cleaned and lathered in protection).
Well worth every penny.
We had one here recently where we guided the owner to a great place who did amazing work.
See for yourself, before & after (metal brush scrubbed, dry ice cleaned and lathered in protection).
Well worth every penny.
- Thread starter
- #56
I'm digging into my ABS light, and it comes up via the paper clip Tc to E blinky light code as a code 22 "open or short circuit in 3 position solenoid circuit for left front wheel" lists the trouble area as "abs actuator or open or short in SFL circuit." According to the service manual. Awesome that is in the resource section btw! Given the location and my rig, I suspect corrosion may be the culprit. My first step will be to crawl under there and look at wires coming and going from the wheel, but I don't know what I'm looking for exactly. Any advice on where to go from here with this information? I've never really done anything with brakes, let alone abs systems. Usually if my abs isn't working I say "good riddance", but I'm wondering if this could be prevting the front and rear diff. locks from engaging? Another issue I've discovered. Thanks in advance for any insight.
CrabCake
SILVER Star
You'll find the ABS sensor right on top of the Birf knuckle with a wire coming out of it. There should be a 10mm bolt holding it in, you can remove the bolt and pull the sensor out of the knuckle. Not sure how to test to see if the sensor is any good right off, but that's how you'd need to replace it.
As far as causing issues with your lockers, they should not be connected, so I doubt any related issues between them. The only thing that you will see when you engage the center locker is that it should make the ABS light come on as it disables ABS when the center locker is engaged.
Not sure if this helps much, but at least some insight for you. Many have done the ABS delete and it's documented pretty well here on what to do if you want to, but I like to keep as much in tact as possible on the original braking system, especially with lots of ice and snow where you are, it could help you out of a situation one day.
As far as causing issues with your lockers, they should not be connected, so I doubt any related issues between them. The only thing that you will see when you engage the center locker is that it should make the ABS light come on as it disables ABS when the center locker is engaged.
Not sure if this helps much, but at least some insight for you. Many have done the ABS delete and it's documented pretty well here on what to do if you want to, but I like to keep as much in tact as possible on the original braking system, especially with lots of ice and snow where you are, it could help you out of a situation one day.
