Need help - mounting winch (1 Viewer)

[CruiseOrlando]

I've undertaken the same project as this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/370693-project-stock-front-bumper-integrated-winch.html

I have the Badlands 9000# winch, and I have the Harbor Freight channel mount bracket. After cutting the first part out to test fit with the winch, I discovered that the clutch knob is going to be a problem, at it hits the tranny radiator.

Here are some pics to help describe the issue - photo1 shows the assembly, photo 2 shows how the clutch knob is hitting the radiator. It's supposed to rotate 180 deg, but is probably only making about 120' until hitting the radiator.

I've thought about making my own clutch knob, and maybe mounting the winch upside down... but I don't like the idea of exposing it to the elements like that, especially when it's going to be the first thing to test ground clearance.

And I can't rotate the clutch knob... already took it out to check to see if that was a possibility.

Any bright ideas out there? I'd appreciate it

 

[kidglove13]

can you rotate the housing with that winch?
I know on a warn you can

 

[CruiseOrlando]

This is no Warn! So no unfortunately. I think my best choice is to heat that thing up until it glows and bend it a bit. I might move the radiator as well... Looking at red redrilling the brackets now as well.

 

[Cannon88]

I would try to bend it first. If that doesnt work, can you cut some of it off to help it clear?

 

[CruiseOrlando]

That's a thought... I probably could grind the heck out of it as well. I'd be even more inclined to do so if I can buy a replacement!

 

[Ron83]

Look up "clocking" in your winch manual. Just got pretty much the same winch in smittybilt version and you just have to take out the top two bolts on the gear housing. Then pull the gear unit off and you will find around ten smaller bolts on the inside. loosen them and the gear housing can be rotated foward to make the knob aim straight ahead or anywhere you want in 36 deg. increments.

hope this helps.


Ron 83

 

[Ron83]

and while you have it apart you might want to read this thread about waterproofing and replacing the grease with a better quality to make your free spooling a lot better.

Ron83

https://forum.ih8mud.com/winching-recovery/371911-waterproofing-winch.html

 

[kidglove13]

Look up "clocking" in your winch manual. Just got pretty much the same winch in smittybilt version and you just have to take out the top two bolts on the gear housing. Then pull the gear unit off and you will find around ten smaller bolts on the inside. loosen them and the gear housing can be rotated foward to make the knob aim straight ahead or anywhere you want in 36 deg. increments.

hope this helps.


Ron 83

Thats what I ment clocking the housing.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

That's a great idea (clocking the winch).

I just had another thought handed to me... turn it around!

I'd have to rewire it so the forward and reverse go to the 'wrong' leads, and I'd have to unwind the lead and put it back, but as you can see from these pictures, it would fit in there just fine...

 

[Ron83]

That's a great idea (clocking the winch).

I just had another thought handed to me... turn it around!

I'd have to rewire it so the forward and reverse go to the 'wrong' leads, and I'd have to unwind the lead and put it back, but as you can see from these pictures, it would fit in there just fine...

Don't know that I would try that without a lot of checking first. Since they are only built to pull one direction and manual even says "DO not run in reverse - use free spooling" because of the braking system.

 

[IBCRUSN]

That's a great idea (clocking the winch).

I just had another thought handed to me... turn it around!

I'd have to rewire it so the forward and reverse go to the 'wrong' leads, and I'd have to unwind the lead and put it back, but as you can see from these pictures, it would fit in there just fine...

Making it function as you show won't work. You'd have to address the braking mechanism.

I wouldn't bend or heat and bend the lever as it's likely made out of pot metal and will break. If you look at page 19 of the exploded parts diagram the housing can be clocked by removing the 10 screws from the cover (item 22) and rotating the housing (item 7) one, two or more holes until you have clearance. Reinstall the screws and carry on. One bit of caution, do not remove the housing, cover, etc you're only looking to remove the screws enough to rotate the housing.

 

[BrianE]

Was just looking at the exploded diagram for the Badland winches. It looks like you should be able to remove ten screws ( Item 1) on the drum side of the drum support that attach the gear box, rotate the gear box 36 degrees forward, and put the screws back in. Haven't seen one myself, so can't say for sure if it will work.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Agreed on the clocking... Does seem to be the best option. I didn't think about the breaking mechanism.

I'll take it apart and see how it goes. They don't specifically mention anything about clocking in the manual and a quick google search pulled nothing.

Right now I'm working on trimming down the plate a little more as well... finally got a metal blade for my skill saw, going much easier than using the angle grinder.

 

[BrianE]

On second thought, I bet the drum covers the screws that attach the gear box to the support. You might have to disassemble it from the motor side to get to them.
It's much easier on a Warn. The gear box housing is attached to the drum support with long screws. No need to get to anything on the drum side to clock it.

 

[Ron83]

On second thought, I bet the drum covers the screws that attach the gear box to the support. You might have to disassemble it from the motor side to get to them.
It's much easier on a Warn. The gear box housing is attached to the drum support with long screws. No need to get to anything on the drum side to clock it.

Npoe, just need to pull the two bolts up top on bars that go over top of drum from gear side. Then slide it off to get to ten small crews.. Leave motor side alone. To see pictures see this thread and start at # 15 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/winching-recovery/371911-waterproofing-winch.html . FYI - he did pull motor end to grease it but not needed here since you just want to move engagement handle.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Npoe, just need to pull the two bolts up top on bars that go over top of drum from gear side. Then slide it off to get to ten small crews.. Leave motor side alone. To see pictures see this thread and start at # 15 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/winching-recovery/371911-waterproofing-winch.html . FYI - he did pull motor end to grease it but not needed here since you just want to move engagement handle.

Thanks. I just took the gear end cap off to get a look, and I'm glad you posted that information...

FYI here's the gear side with the cap off.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Ok. I don't think this is going to work. I rotated the housing but it has no effect on the clutch handle position. If you look at #14 on the assembly diagram, note the groove is the same all the way around the drum. I assume in other winches this is cut at some kind of pattern that allows the clutch handle to change position.

Im attaching 2 pics of the drum engaged and disengaged.

Time for plan B. heh.

 

[Ron83]

Ok. I don't think this is going to work. I rotated the housing but it has no effect on the clutch handle position. If you look at #14 on the assembly diagram, note the groove is the same all the way around the drum. I assume in other winches this is cut at some kind of pattern that allows the clutch handle to change position.

Im attaching 2 pics of the drum engaged and disengaged.

Time for plan B. heh.

I don't have the same instructions/diagram so can't see diagram #14. but leave the clutch in free wheel position. Then you want to rotate the cover that was held on by the ten little screes one screw position counter clockwise. Just slightly tighten a couple of the screws then hold it back up by your winch and you should see how the clutch handle is moving.



hope this makes sense.

 

[Ron83]

Or maybe this will help.

The clutch handle itself is not going to move, it stays the same. It is that whole outside gear casing, handle and all that you rotate. IF you look at it from the side the handle comes "stock" in the twelve o'clock position on the winch. When you rotate the gear casing the handle will move to the 10 o'clock position. When you get it where you want it, just put the ten little screws back in.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Oooh, I think I know what you're saying now.... let me give that a shot and see where it gets me.