LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues (7 Viewers)

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I'm answering my own question. Yes. The 2-digit code in the display (13) corresponded with the TYT II tool (C1713). Sensor replaced. All good. So, if you don't have a fancy code reader, but you do have a paper clip, you can pull AHC codes!

But then I made the mistake of checking for any codes in all the systems....C1452: Accumulator Low Pressure. Current. :doh: I've done that job before on past vehicles...so I know now that's a job where I buy the parts and have an independent Lexus mechanic install! Unless it happens to be something easy....but at 151k, it's about time.

I dunno -- maybe I'll just rip the whole ABS/VSC system out and just install a more conventional vacuum assist brake system? ;)
 
Sorry for epic delay. @AnyMal I definitely got the "I dont want to touch the AHC quote" from the service techs. It was just shy of 2K to replace the front rams/shocks. I got a prospective quote for all 4 globes replace and install as 5K.

The LC/LX are more finicky than what Im accustomed to b/c the electronics and hydraulic interplay.

Between the front shock (rams) and return valve whine (which I think means new pump assy). Its literally cheaper to go static suspension now.. Im 99% confident of that. I dont want to pull a trigger til all my ducks in a row.

Conveniently, it gives me time to finish rewiring my holley m3 ls3 swap, I still got AC and exhaust fabbing to do.
 
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@okcfunky, there are significantly better options you might consider, if not already...

 
@okcfunky, there are significantly better options you might consider, if not already...


I saw that. Building a cost breakdown spreadsheet and gonna be attaching instructions for each step so I can get a better idea before I decide to tackle it. If I can turn it into a 6 hour job for 2 front shocks, bleed the system (which I think will take care of the return valve whine since that's probably cavitation), I'll be pleased as punch.
 
Sorry for epic delay. @AnyMal I definitely got the "I dont want to touch the AHC quote" from the service techs. It was just shy of 2K to replace the front rams/shocks. I got a prospective quote for all 4 globes replace and install as 5K.

The LC/LX are more finicky than what Im accustomed to b/c the electronics and hydraulic interplay.

Between the front shock (rams) and return valve whine (which I think means new pump assy). Its literally cheaper to go static suspension now.. Im 99% confident of that. I dont want to pull a trigger til all my ducks in a row.

Conveniently, it gives me time to finish rewiring my holley m3 ls3 swap, I still got AC and exhaust fabbing to do.

Great link by @degmla , if you can use those numbers to help justify costs. I'll echo those are real numbers having done the job before and you'll find them easily competitive against a new static suspension system.

I doubht you need a pump as those rarely fail outside of external factors. Similar pumps on the 100-series go quarter million miles or more and is not a problem area..just saying the pumps are robust and similar hydraulic pump designs are used in commercial applications.

IMO, unless your example is a total wreck (which I doubt it is), it'd be worthwhile to repair for 2x-3x the costs of static suspensions because of the capabilities. Consider with a mild sensor adjustment, say 1.5", it will lift to heights that no static suspension can touch, with 4.5" total lift.

Or with payload, with a slight augmentation, it'll support 2k+ lbs easily. With excellent ride quality laden or unladen.

There's more but I digress...
 
Great link by @degmla , if you can use those numbers to help justify costs. I'll echo those are real numbers having done the job before and you'll find them easily competitive against a new static suspension system.

I doubht you need a pump as those rarely fail outside of external factors. Similar pumps on the 100-series go quarter million miles or more and is not a problem area..just saying the pumps are robust and similar hydraulic pump designs are used in commercial applications.

IMO, unless your example is a total wreck (which I doubt it is), it'd be worthwhile to repair for 2x-3x the costs of static suspensions because of the capabilities. Consider with a mild sensor adjustment, say 1.5", it will lift to heights that no static suspension can touch, with 4.5" total lift.

Or with payload, with a slight augmentation, it'll support 2k+ lbs easily. With excellent ride quality laden or unladen.

There's more but I digress...

Its true.
I dont think we have ever seen a pump fail outside of bad/old contaminated fluid. I could be wrong tho...
Apparently Toyota or their supplier makes some fantastic fluid pumps. Same with the hydraulic steering according to the car care nut.

To be honest, if i was really trying to save money, id get some brake line and a flare kit and just coupler it up.
Thats really all it is essentially, a brake system. Booster (accumulator) and all.
Just match the gauge. You dont have to spend a fortune on the whole line if its just a leak.

Only real issues with AHC is the ECU, its programming, cost of parts, and the lack of literally any knowledge outside of MUD.
This is not the first time weve seen the dealer special.
The record i believe was $30k quote? LOOOOOL
 
The record i believe was $30k quote?
That is just professional-speak for "do not bring your vehicle here...ever."
 
I'm not sure if I understand what you are saying here, but it sounds like you are paying 2k to replace the front shocks and then 5k to replace the globes?

The front shocks aren't any different than any other Toyota IFS, other than disconnecting the hydraulic line and then reconnecting when done. The shocks are 400-500 per pair. The globes can be ordered directly from Japan for 500-600 and take an hour to change out in your driveway (they literally just thread off and on to the frame mounted valve bodies), maybe 2-3 hours if you still have your ahc guards in place. Throw in 5l of AHC fluid at $100...and you can do this whole job in an afternoon for 1-1.1k. Or find an indy shop to do it for a lot less than 7k. If you are okay with doing a "full rear suspension" rebuild in your garage, that is more difficult that the 7k worth of work you just outlined.

Edit: Added links
@lx200inAR have you (or anyone else here) ordered the globes from this link in Japan? My indy guy refuses to use client supplied parts and he adds 40-70% onto parts from the dealership. I have about had enough of them all as this is my third Indy shop and I refuse to go to the stealer.
 
I've used the globes from Japan. Pretty sure a few others have successfully as well.
 
I've used the globes from Japan. Pretty sure a few others have successfully as well.
amazing. Under $500 for all 4 globes according to the yen calculator. Mud is awesome.
 
amazing. Under $500 for all 4 globes according to the yen calculator. Mud is awesome.
I bought them on eBay but same seller, JDM Planet.

 
@lx200inAR have you (or anyone else here) ordered the globes from this link in Japan? My indy guy refuses to use client supplied parts and he adds 40-70% onto parts from the dealership. I have about had enough of them all as this is my third Indy shop and I refuse to go to the stealer.
I also ordered them from their eBay store. I think the price has creeped up on eBay vs their direct website. I know at least a few have ordered directly. There's probably semblance of greater consumer protection going through eBay, but plenty have ordered form them, so I'd say it's a pretty safe bet either way.
 
@lx200inAR have you (or anyone else here) ordered the globes from this link in Japan? My indy guy refuses to use client supplied parts and he adds 40-70% onto parts from the dealership. I have about had enough of them all as this is my third Indy shop and I refuse to go to the stealer.
You need a new indie guy.

$471 via eBay delivered in a few days from Japan. Seller jpanime2014.
 
I am my new indy guy. They cannot see the forest for the trees. I have three Toyotas I'd bring to him if he took care of me. Globes look easy and I'm saving $3000.
 
Some initial thoughts:

The Front and Rear Damper Step fields have breakouts for the left and right, as well as the high rate spring valve, but in driving around for 30 min or so, i never saw the left and right have a different value, so i decided to remove the second PID for each setting to save on refresh rate and duplicate data.

I was surprised how often the pump turns on. It's not "all the time" but it definitely makes fine adjustments from time to time. It also uses the pump to raise back up after lowering for highway speed. I wish the refresh rate was faster, i wonder how many changes happen in under 1-2 seconds. The screen refresh is definitely in that 2-3 second range, so it's easily possible the polling can miss an action.

So far I've seen the high spring rate (No. 2 Gas Chamber) turns on during hard braking and during turns.

Damping rate. I'm not 100% sure, but i believe the higher the number the higher the damping force. It moved around quite a bit while driving. And changing the comfort/sport switch definitely changes the values.

I haven't seen the gate valves open much, but they definitely did open once when I was slowing to a stop light. That pretty much verifies that the truck expects the pressure in the left and right sides of the same axle to be the same pressure. I don't' know if the gate valves triggered because of my slowing down, or if they just open and close periodically.

That's all the interesting stuff I've seen for now. Obviously, I need to fix my RR height adjust senor arm, it does stay consistently about 20-25mm higher than the other 3, no matter what mode I'm in.. The truck doesn't really seem to care though.



Front Adjust Value
Rear Adjust Value
PID Value
Height Position
(mm)​
(in)​
(mm)​
(in)​
Extra HI
70​
2.8​
80​
3.1​
?
HI
50​
2​
60​
2.4​
6
L4 Range HI
25​
1​
25​
1​
5
Normal
0​
0​
0​
0​
0
High Speed LO
-20​
-0.8​
-15​
-0.6​
4
LO
-60​
-2.4​
-40​
-1.6​
2


I had to go break out the manual, "L4 Range HI" only happens when transfer case in low range and AHC is in "HI" and truck is traveling over 25 mph.

Extra HI seems to not be able to be manually triggered. You have to have a wheel free wheeling in 4 Lo and in Hi.

Did you ever fix your RR height adjust sensor arm? Mine is in a similar situation... just curious what you did to resolve it. Here's min in Normal. I did a front sensor lift only.

Screenshot_20230302_102734.jpg
 
Did you ever fix your RR height adjust sensor arm? Mine is in a similar situation... just curious what you did to resolve it. Here's min in Normal. I did a front sensor lift only.

View attachment 3262192
I haven't spent much time on it. But at this point I’m not sure there is anything to fix. I think yours is now the 3rd or 4th output to have this same discrepancy. This might be functioning as designed. It might be a function of the longer spring on the gas tank side, but that’s just conjecture.
 
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I haven't spent much time on it. But at this point I’m not sure there is anything to fix. I think yours is now the 3rd or 4th output to have this same discrepancy. This might be functioning as designed. It might be a function of the longer spring on the gas tank side, but that’s just conjecture.

Looking forward to running your dashboard when my life settles a bit soon.

That side is also the sensor slide bracket with the most length adjustment. There is something going on for sure, and I personally believe its built for RHD and not reengineered for USA. I know thats a ludicrous theory, but at this point im convinced.

The RHD models share so much weight on that one side that I believe it had to be compensated for. And it wasn’t uncompensated for LHD LXs at least.
 
Without going back through the entire thread, how much fluid do I need for globe replacement?
 

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