Is there something wrong with my rear window defrost switch? (1 Viewer)

[EDPA]

All of my interior switches light-up when my lights are on...I think. I recently noticed that my rear window defrost switch Light does light-up when I press it on like it is supposed to. But when the switch is not depressed the icon does not light-up like all of my other switches. Is this normal and I just never noticed it before or is the tiny light that illuminates that particular switches icon burn out?

 

[Sarmajor]

Defrost Switch

Mine lights up NOW. I had to pull it apart and replace the lamp inside it. Not a job for the faint hearted. The little lamp is right inside the switch and you have to disassemble it to get at it. The illumination bulb is easier to replace if I recall correctly.

Cheers

 

[Romer]

Probably a bulb. Easy to replace. You can pop the switch out without pulling the dash apart if you are careful

 

[EDPA]

The light "lights-up" when I push it "ON". But when it is not in use there is a black spot on the dash so when it's dark you wouldn't even know that a switch was there. I'm just wondering if I have to replace the switch or, like said, are all 80 Cruisers like this, and I just never noticed it before.

 

[MoGas]

While we are on the subject, is the hazard light switch supposed to be illuminated when the other instrument panel lights are on?

Dave

 

[MoGas]

Never mind, I answered my own question by consulting page 73 of my wiring manual.

Dave

 

[darnold87]

I know this is an old thread...
I was just curious if anyone has the part number for the bulb inside the rear defrost switch that is always lit. (Not the one that lights when you press it). Or is the bulb a generic one that you can get at a local parts store? Thanks!

 

[finderscuba]

Mine lights up NOW. I had to pull it apart and replace the lamp inside it. Not a job for the faint hearted. The little lamp is right inside the switch and you have to disassemble it to get at it. The illumination bulb is easier to replace if I recall correctly.

Cheers

Any advice on how to disassemble the defrost switch? I have mine partially disassembled, but I cannot get the circuit board with white connector removed from the black plastic housing. There is a white sticker on the bottom that when removed reveals some of the circuit board inside. But there is no obvious way to release the front switch from the circuit board.

In other words, I cannot slide the circuit board out the back of the switch to gain access to the burnt out bulb. HELP!!

 

[asutherland]

Any advice on how to disassemble the defrost switch? I have mine partially disassembled, but I cannot get the circuit board with white connector removed from the black plastic housing. There is a white sticker on the bottom that when removed reveals some of the circuit board inside. But there is no obvious way to release the front switch from the circuit board.

In other words, I cannot slide the circuit board out the back of the switch to gain access to the burnt out bulb. HELP!!

Bingo. Good description. I have this EXACT same issue. Why the heck didn't they have the bullb removable like all the other switches?

Can anyone shed light on how to remove the circuit board from the black housing? I have the clip at the back loosened, but when I try to pull the works straight out the back, the button on the front stops it from sliding all the way out.

 

[asutherland]

Alright - had some time to fiddle with this damn switch. Here are the directions (with photos!) on how to disassemble it.

Photo of fully disassembled switch

Step 1. Use a small flat head screwdriver and pry gently at the edges of the button portion of the switch. The button face will pop off.

Step 2. Pry gently at the back of the switch where the harness clip is. You can see where you should pry on the outside of the main switch housing. Slide the whole circuit board and harness clip backwards and out of the switch housing. IMPORTANT: As you're sliding it out, WATCH OUT for the little tiny ball that will fall out. You'll need to place it exactly where it came out (there's a little spot for it) when you put it back together.

Step 3. Now remove the black plastic bit from around the circuit board. It's only attached with the small spring.

 

[asutherland]

Step 4. Wiggle the grey penis shaped rubber housing (with light bulb at the tip) and it will slide off the 2 metal prongs.

Unfortunately Toyota doesn't sell this light bulb. Only way to replace it is to replace the whole switch.

Took matters into my own hands, and poached one of the mini light bulbs out of the normal, replaceable switch lights. Pulled the light bulb out of the screw condom...

Then soldered it to the switch like this:

Put the switch back together.... then tested. PERFECT! Looks exactly like it should.

 

[asutherland]

PS. - That wiring harness is my center diff lock harness that I finally found, waiting for my CDL switch from a fellow mudder!

 

[finderscuba]

Thank you asutherland for your very informative instructions. I'm not sure how you figured out how to get that switch front off!! I'm thinking of drilling holes through the sides of the outside housing so I can more easily reach the front button releases. I've had no luck so far with thin flat bladed screwdrivers. But at least I know how to disassemble now.

Great work!

 

[finderscuba]

This switch is a prime example of "over design". It is more complicated than it needs to be.

Another good example: my wife's VW Golf developed a problem where it thought the driver's door was always open. Wreaked havoc on the alarm and interior lights, etc. You'd think, "I'll just fix the door plunger switch". Wrong - no such animal. The door lock/latch mechanism has 2 circuit boards and 3 microswitches built in. You have to replace the whole thing at over $400. This was one of the most over designed mechanisms I've ever seen in a car. Being the Scotsman I am, I went to Radio Shack and bought a new microswitch, soldered it in and reassembled. Problem gone. Cost: $3.50.

I think it should be mandatory for all automotive designers to apprentice in a garage for 12 months prior to being given a CAD station. They should also have to own, drive and service the very car they design for the rest of their life!

 

[asutherland]

This switch is a prime example of "over design". It is more complicated than it needs to be.

Another good example: my wife's VW Golf developed a problem where it thought the driver's door was always open. Wreaked havoc on the alarm and interior lights, etc. You'd think, "I'll just fix the door plunger switch". Wrong - no such animal. The door lock/latch mechanism has 2 circuit boards and 3 microswitches built in. You have to replace the whole thing at over $400. This was one of the most over designed mechanisms I've ever seen in a car. Being the Scotsman I am, I went to Radio Shack and bought a new microswitch, soldered it in and reassembled. Problem gone. Cost: $3.50.

You and I sir, have very similar issues! Check out this thread I made a year or so ago: DIY: B6 A4 (2002) door latch 'door open' sensor fix - Audi Forum

I'll take a picture of where I shoved the screw driver tonight!

PS. - I am also of Scottish heritage

 

[darnold87]

Very nice work! I'll put this on my to-do list! Thanks!

 

[Sibiriak]

Used these instructions today to fix the bulb. Without this I would be able to open the switch.

It is possible to pull the bulb out of the grey plastic socket using small pliers. Then you replace it with a new sub mini bulb T1, diam. 3.2 x length 6.8 mm, 12V/60mA.

Cheers from Switzerland
Tomas

 

[Sibiriak]

Used these instructions today to fix the bulb. Without this I would be able to open the switch.

Of course must read .......wouldn't be able.....

 

[asutherland]

Excellent! Great news.

 

[BCR4619]

Dang, I was just going to reorder some lights to have a few and replace the one in the defrost, then I bump into this thread. I guess I know what I have to do now!