Installing Sub-woofer Upgrade (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

slomo said:
Nice job, sounds (no pun intended) like just what mine was missing. Off to find an 8' woofer somewhere close.

I have a near new JL Audio 8W0 for sale which is a 8 inch sub specially made for places with tight air spaces. If you want any more information/pictures just PM me or reply.
 
Very nice looking install.

I would suggest two things (FWIW, I help put myself through school installing high end audio equipment).

First, I would upgrade your template onto 3/4" or thicker MDF board. This will allow the sub woofers cone to do all the resonating not the panel it is mounted on. This will tighten up the bass dramitically and will reduce much of the muddy sound that the panel can transmit.

Second, you are mounting into an open air environment, I understand not loosing floor space, that is a valid design requirement, but if you could mount up a speaker pod behind the panel you will get the most out of your sub for the least amount of cost. They are a foam baffle style "bowl" that will help clean up the bass as well as protect it from dust and junk like that. You can find them cheap at any of the audio suppliers like Crutchfield.

Just my .02

Rezarf <><
 
REZARF said:
Very nice looking install.

I would suggest two things (FWIW, I help put myself through school installing high end audio equipment).

First, I would upgrade your template onto 3/4" or thicker MDF board. This will allow the sub woofers cone to do all the resonating not the panel it is mounted on. This will tighten up the bass dramitically and will reduce much of the muddy sound that the panel can transmit.

Second, you are mounting into an open air environment, I understand not loosing floor space, that is a valid design requirement, but if you could mount up a speaker pod behind the panel you will get the most out of your sub for the least amount of cost. They are a foam baffle style "bowl" that will help clean up the bass as well as protect it from dust and junk like that. You can find them cheap at any of the audio suppliers like Crutchfield.

Just my .02

Rezarf <><

+1 on the 3/4 MDF....

About your second point, am I understanding that this would enclose the speaker fully?

Would the product you speak of be easier than building a "backside" onto the box to create a sealed box?
 
REZARF said:
Very nice looking install.

I would suggest two things (FWIW, I help put myself through school installing high end audio equipment).

First, I would upgrade your template onto 3/4" or thicker MDF board. This will allow the sub woofers cone to do all the resonating not the panel it is mounted on. This will tighten up the bass dramitically and will reduce much of the muddy sound that the panel can transmit.



Rezarf <><

This build started with a std depth woofer I had laying around and I found that due to the depth I could not build a box enclosure (and still keep inside the side panel). The shallow sub I ended up using leaves me more options. I am toying with the idea adding an enclosure.

I appreciate your viewpoint and I realize that the MDF would provide a better sound board however this was meant to be a simple upgrade and the thicker board added complexity that I was trying to avoid.....Note how the thinner board fits in between the sheetmetal lip and the stock sub bracket. I failed to mention that I added 3/4'' wooden ''ribs'' to the backside of the board to eliminate oilcanning and flex while facilitating mounting the amp.
 
TCH2FLY said:
This build started with a std depth woofer I had laying around and I found that due to the depth I could not build a box enclosure (and still keep inside the side panel). The shallow sub I ended up using leaves me more options. I am toying with the idea adding an enclosure.

I appreciate your viewpoint and I realize that the MDF would provide a better sound board however this was meant to be a simple upgrade and the thicker board added complexity that I was trying to avoid.....Note how the thinner board fits in between the sheetmetal lip and the stock sub bracket. I failed to mention that I added 3/4'' wooden ''ribs'' to the backside of the board to eliminate oilcanning and flex while facilitating mounting the amp.

Good points, for what you are looking to get out of it, you design makes sense. I am just used to milking each component to its full potential. I would leave it mounted the way you have it. But I would add a baffle... they do make a big difference on speakers, and they still have an affect, however not quite as good on subs. Your 8" will benifit from one for sure.

Here is what I am talking about. 11 bucks for a pair...

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-oaxJHO...sp?i=237XT80&id=morephotos&a=&s=0&cc=01&g=760
baffle.jpg
 
TCH2FLY said:
This build started with a std depth woofer I had laying around and I found that due to the depth I could not build a box enclosure (and still keep inside the side panel). The shallow sub I ended up using leaves me more options. I am toying with the idea adding an enclosure.

your sub is designed for sealed box. i would follow the advice previously given and
finish the enclosure.. the improvement will be apparent.
 
Great install! GGreat pics! Nice job. Dont change a thing!!
 
Sub wiring

Great job - it has encouraged me to give it a try (today!). Though I would prefer to save the cash, I also like the small local shops and I'm in a hurry (the cruiser trip starts Monday and won't finish until the end of August).

So just a quick question, is there wiring in place already from the factory sub that I can use with an aftermarket sub and aftermarket head unit? Or will I need to run new wire? If I need to run new wire, I assume I really should add the amp also - any recommendations as to specs?

If possible, I'd prefer to use existing wire and just hook up the subwoofer for now (time is short) and get to the rest later.

Thanks!
 
Miescha said:
Great job - it has encouraged me to give it a try (today!). Though I would prefer to save the cash, I also like the small local shops and I'm in a hurry (the cruiser trip starts Monday and won't finish until the end of August).

So just a quick question, is there wiring in place already from the factory sub that I can use with an aftermarket sub and aftermarket head unit? Or will I need to run new wire? If I need to run new wire, I assume I really should add the amp also - any recommendations as to specs?

If possible, I'd prefer to use existing wire and just hook up the subwoofer for now (time is short) and get to the rest later.

Thanks!

I doubt you would see any improvement using the factory amp and an aftermarket sub (might sound worse) You can use the factory speaker leads for a signal to minimize rewiring BUT if you have an aftermarket head you may have sub outputs and that would be the best signal. If you are adding an amp you would need to run a much heavier power lead so while you are doing that just run new speaker leads.

Amps...hmmm... lot's of ways to go. You need to purchase an amp with the sub in mind or vis versa. If I recall the sub I used can handle 200 watt max and 120 watts nominal so (for several reasons) I got an inexpensive 150 watt amp and as I said I'm pleased with the results.

As pointed out thicker mounting surfaces and a properly sized enclosure (do I really need to point out the interior of the side panel is in fact an enclosure??? ) could improve the sound, but will obviously increase the complexity of the upgrade. (I'm sure not everyone here has the proper tools or is comfortable working with wood)

and for the person that PM'd me about the rear mat it is a Husky Liner. (BTW clear your inbox it's full)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom