Idler shaft popped out (1 Viewer)

[hodol88]

Today, the idler shaft popped out of the transfer case on my FJ60 while I was driving and drove another 10 miles to come home. The shifting gears were little rough, but it worked. The reverse goes in, but the rig does not move.

I just ordered the transfer case rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Should I do anything else while the transfer case is out?

 

[Dynosoar]

Check the gears for broken teeth. When (and it should be never) the idler shaft comes out, you should stop the vehicle and do not drive it until it is fixed!

Dyno

 

[Tapage]

you should inspect gears .. and the case ..

 

[daytonadogie]

I bet you're going to need more than a rebuild kit before its all done. Post some pics after you tear it down; it will be interesting to see the damage inside.

 

[Output Shaft]

The rebuild kit will have the normal things needed for a transfer rebuild. This isn't exactly normal.
Pay heed to Dyno's advice & Tapage's. Especially examine the machined holes in the case that retains and O-rings & the idler shaft. The idler was getting torqued at an angle as it slipped out.

You are also going to need a new little idler lock plate among other things. It probably isn't included in the rebuild kit.
PN 36726-60020
and it's lock bolt
PN 91661-40818

 

[burymeinmy60]

Wow, what a nightmare. Made me go out and hug my 60.

 

[Spike Strip]

That second pick looks like the head of the lock bolt snapped off!

3x - more pix please when TC is apart.

 

[60Works]

There's a good chance the case is chewed up or tweaked internally. Be mentally prepared to need a complete replacement case.

 

[hodol88]

It wasn't bad except for this gear. Can I buy this gear and its plate only? Do you know the part numbers?

 

[Output Shaft]

The idler gear has three different part numbers depending on the year of your cruiser.
The idler shaft changed dimensions later on.
08/1980 thru 10/1982 PN: 36221-60050 (discontinued)
10/1982 thru 04/1986 PN: 36221-60051 (discontinued)
04/1986 thru 08/1987 PN: 36221-60090 (maybe still available)

It might be a better choice buying a used one from a scrapper.
36221-60090 costs over $500 new (if it isn't NLA).

 

[Slow Left]

What year is the transfercase?

 

[hodol88]

What year is the transfercase?

87.

I need an idler gear, an oil reciever, and a lockbolt. Is anyone selling the whole case? Buying seperately seems to cost more. Also, none of the gaskets came with the kit. Do I buy them seperately? Or I just get a liquid gasket?

 

[hodol88]

Is a 85 TC compatible with 87? I found a guy who has it.

 

[Slow Left]

Can't help you on the '87 gears...

You could post up on the Classifieds-Wanted to Buy section here on MUD...someone's bound to have what you are looking for used.

For used parts, I tend to go directly to Georg at Valley Hybrid in Stockton, CA. He's a great guy to do business with. His MUD handle is @orangefj45

Strange that the gaskets didn't come with the kit...have you double checked to make sure they aren't folded flat all together on a piece of cardboard...maybe on the bottom or stuck to the lid of the box the kit came in?

If they're not there, you're probably best talking directly with Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters (in the OP of this thread, it seems that this is where you got the kit from). He'd be able to sort it all out for you...

 

[orangefj45]

The idler gear is junk; it's got chipped teeth. And that means the mating gears got damaged also. If you have another case, I'd run it. Hopefully it's a 38mm idler tcase as well. But even if it's the 34mm unit, it'll work.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I just rebuilt a tcase for the exact same reason. In our case, we opted to go with another case since a lot of pars were damaged. I don't like mixing gear sets because they tend to run noisier.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids

Cell Phone (650) 576-2023

 

[hodol88]

Thanks for all the help. I got the same exact 87 transfer case from a fellow member. I had to pay little more the 87 transfer case. I was told that I could install a TC from any year, but I already had a rebuild kit for that year. I didn't feel like exchanging the kit. Anyway, after spending enough time cleaning and rebuilding, I started driving it yesterday. Also, I was packing away my old transfer case and found out why it popped out. It was the bearing that failed as you can see you the attached photo. I guess it was due for the rebuild at 210k.

I hope to drive this thing for a while before another failure. What is due next? The knuckle rebuild? So far, I have got the valves adjusted, carb rebuilt, replaced charcoal canister and all the vacuum hoses.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

yeah, pay attention to all the bearings and bushings. once you complete the Tcase, move on to the front axle. do trunnion bearings and wheel bearings and all the seals. If the diffs haven't ever been addressed, then do so to the front diff at the same time as the front axle refurb- you only want to yank that stuff once if you can help it. the trans isn't as much an issue, providing the pilot and TO bearing are ok- those get done when the clutch goes. pay close attention to the condition of your suspension bushings and torque of the spring hardware. Don't forget to put TREs on the schedule with the front axle. Then work your way back to the rear axle and diff. do brakes while doing axles...once you know all the bearings and bushing are good, then you know it'll roll as long as the engine can go, then move on to the engine/stereo/blingy stuff. Bearings and Bushings and brakes and steering should always be the priorities...HTH. an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

tip: drop the driveshafts to check for play at the flanges at fluid change intervals...

 

[orangefj45]

That type of bearing failure doesn't just happen all of a sudden. It's a very slow but steady process and you can always tell because the tcase will make more and more gear noise ......... so if it does, fix it before the case blows up.
Hopefully lesson learned.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[GLTHFJ60]

This happened to me years ago, probably 2008. In my case it appeared that the idler shaft retainer bolt sheared and then the idler shaft worked its way out. Not sure that a bearing failure would cause the idler shaft retainer bolt to shear.

Fortunately I was able to rebuild and reassemble the case without any problems, even after driving 5 miles home (didn't have any chipped teeth though), and drove for a few years after that.