Garrett turbo Q (1 Viewer)

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T25R is not a ball bearing turbo at all. It's a 25 that spins the impeller anticlockwise as opposed to clockwise. The R stands for "Reverse"

The letters your'e looking for are "GT" instead of "T" on a garret turbo. the G signifying the ball bearing cartridge over the thrust bearing design.

I don't think you should offer advice on turbo selection. Everything you've just posted is completely wrong and easily refuted by simply reading the garrett catalog.
Here's a link to one.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/servlet/com.turbobygarrett.servlet.TurboByGarrettCTR

I quote from page 13
Garrett said:
Garrett Ball Bearing turbochargers always end in an "R" as in GT28R

There is no "reverse rotation" option.:lol:

The GT turbo range covers both journal and ball bearing turbos.
 
Any suggestions on what guys are running with their 1HZ's?

One fellow I talked to runs a GT25, a turbo supplier in OZ recommends a GT28 with .86 A/R.

Any opinions?
 
Any suggestions on what guys are running with their 1HZ's?

One fellow I talked to runs a GT25, a turbo supplier in OZ recommends a GT28 with .86 A/R.

Any opinions?

I'd go down a size on the GT28 exhaust housing. A 0.64 A/R will give you more low end boost and torque.
For diesels you want max boost at cruise and below. If the turbo has a bigger exhaust housing then you need to use the revs more and economy goes out the window.

My fuel economy leapt by 15% when I upped the gearing from 2500 to 2000rpm at 100km/h cruise. Having the boost to haul top gear at low rpms can save you a lot of fuel.
 
That may indeed be posted in their catalogue (and indeed it is), but it's not strictly adhered to.

Have you ever pulled apart a garrett turbo? I have, all the "R" designated turbo's are designed to rotate anticlockwise. This designation is carried over into MHI turbo's as well which are not manufactured by garrett.

By all means, get a GT28 however it defeats the purpose of his goal. He wants boost below stock 1HDT levels. 1HDTs use GT28 sized turbo's on 0.63 rear ends and spool at approx 1800rpm and hold through to 3500rpm. Drive one if you don't believe me. The GT25 with 0.63 rear end spools at more like 1300rpm and holds through to a bit over 3000. Granted it doesn't have as much kick as the GT28 as the 28 obviously flows more CFM but it will provide much better low end response.

Your other option is a supercharger, but there's nowhere to put it.
 
Does anyone know the specs ( AR / trim ) for CT26 .. ?

Just to compare those numbers with the market available turbos information ..
 
That may indeed be posted in their catalogue (and indeed it is), but it's not strictly adhered to.

Yes it is, otherwise they wouldn't make such a statement. Claiming that you are right and the Garrett catalog wrong is the funniest thing I've read in a long time.

Have you ever pulled apart a garrett turbo? I have, all the "R" designated turbo's are designed to rotate anticlockwise. This designation is carried over into MHI turbo's as well which are not manufactured by garrett.

Yes I have pulled apart many garrett turbos, some from other brands too. I have never seen a reverse rotation turbo, they all rotate in the same direction.
A reverse rotation turbo would require opposite hand compressor and turbine housings, something that does not exist.

Again, Garrett state clearly that "R" means ball bearings.
Reverse rotation is a figment of your imagination.
 
To put this issue to rest. . . .

I found this useful in determining the Garrett naming convention to identify what is available. Taken directly from the Garrett site.

I'm just lurking about this 3B info as i'm ready to turbo my 1PZ this fall. . .

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/gt_basics.html
"GT Basics / Nomenclature

Today, Garrett has a wider selection of GT-series turbos available than ever before. As a result of this, please note that we have made a subtle modification to the GT nomenclature.
In our product catalog, all offerings are grouped according to their turbine wheel frame size. The frame size of a turbo or CHRA is dictated by its turbine wheel inducer diameter . The larger the turbine inducer, the bigger the frame size-- so any turbo in the GT42 family has a larger turbine wheel inducer than those in the GT35 family, and so on.
In the model name of each turbo or CHRA, you'll also notice two digits after the frame size. These two digits refer to the compressor exducer diameter, as measured in millimeters.
Let's use the GT4294 as an example. This unit has a GT42 frame size turbine coupled to a 94mm (exducer diameter) compressor wheel.
If there's an "R" on the end of a model name, this means the unit is ball bearing. So, a GT4294 is not ball bearing; whereas a GT4294R is ball bearing.
The biggest change related to the nomenclature is this: units which utilize a 53mm turbine wheel (as measured at the inducer) are now referred to as "GT25" frame size, while units employing the slightly larger 53.85mm turbine wheel are now referred to as "GT28" frame size.
For those familiar with our product range, this means that the unit formerly known as "the GT28R" (part number 466541-1) is now in the GT25R family. More specifically, it is now a GT2560R model.
A Guide To Garrett’s "GT" Model Numbers
GTxxyyzz:
  • Positions "xx" refers to the frame size of the turbine wheel inducer.
    • For example the "GT28" in "GT2860RS" refers to its turbine wheel frame size family. All GT28 units use a turbine wheel with 53.85mm inducer diameter
    • As a rule of thumb, the larger the number, the larger the turbine wheel.
  • Positions "yy" designate the compressor wheel exducer (major) diameter in millimeters
    • The "60" in the GT2860RS example above has a 60mm compressor wheel exducer diameter.
    • Note: Wheel sizes 100mm and over omit the "1" (hundreds digit)
    • Example: the 02 in a GT4202 refers to its 102mm compressor wheel exducer diameter
  • Positions "zz" may be used to designate special features of a particular turbocharger where applicable
    • Example: GT2860RS
    • "R" = this is a Ball Bearing unit
    • "S" = used for units which require some differentiation from units in the same family
      Compare a GT2860R to a GT2860RS. While both are ball bearing and externally similar, the GT2860RS is better suited for higher-flow applications than the GT2860R. In this case, the S reflects the higher-flowing nature of the GT2860RS "
 
I finally got a price from Turboglide, and all i can say it is far from what they have on there web site. I may just go down that road....
 
I finally got a price from Turboglide, and all i can say it is far from what they have on there web site. I may just go down that road....

far better, far worse . ?
 
Does anyone know the specs ( AR / trim ) for CT26 .. ?

Just to compare those numbers with the market available turbos information ..

David, unfortunately there are many different variations of the CT26 from Toyota and they are all a little different. I've been asking for the A/R ratios for the CT26 on the MR2, which is the turbo I plan on using in the FJ45LV on that 3B. Supposedly the MR2 exhaust has an A/R of 0.49 and I assume that since it's a stock turbo on a relatively small engine (2.2 liter or so) the trim will not be too big either. I think the MR2 upgrades are 63 trim so stock has to be less than that or it wouldn't be an upgrade!

Supra turbos are different.
 
David, unfortunately there are many different variations of the CT26 from Toyota and they are all a little different. I've been asking for the A/R ratios for the CT26 on the MR2, which is the turbo I plan on using in the FJ45LV on that 3B. Supposedly the MR2 exhaust has an A/R of 0.49 and I assume that since it's a stock turbo on a relatively small engine (2.2 liter or so) the trim will not be too big either. I think the MR2 upgrades are 63 trim so stock has to be less than that or it wouldn't be an upgrade!

Supra turbos are different.

I'v been seen 2 types of CT26 one for MR2 and one for Supra .. asuming that the supra it's the same for 1HD-T engines with .63 trimm ..

Unfortunately Toyota are not inrested in bring us this information .. :frown:
 
far better, far worse . ?

Better,

about 2300 CDN ship to my door...

I need to add TPS 6.5% on this and customs fee.

So it is more expensive then trying to it my self, but is the difference worth the trouble?, busy like i am, i don't think so.

So sometime in august i'll place my order.

Now i may just keep my 4.11 R&P in. Cause the reason i wanted to change mainly was because i couldn't get over 65mph-70 steady no mather wind and grade.
 
damn .. that's good ..

And ttrustme .. far better a bolt on kit ! I do mine for the hard way .. and at these pint I'm not sure goes really cheap ..
 
It is more expensive but a manafold is $500 on sale the turbo is $800 the oil lines, air and exaust your gonna be pretty close, not to mention your time, unless you have the time to dig around the bone yards which would be kinda fun if I had the time. At $2302.25 to the door in CT USA I'm gonna call in the order too. Think about a group thing and mabe start a thread to go for a discount. I'm in for Aug. or Sept. after that I'm on my own;). I will be turboed by spring 08 :cool:
 
Now i may just keep my 4.11 R&P in. Cause the reason i wanted to change mainly was because i couldn't get over 65mph-70 steady no matter wind and grade.

The turbo will NOT increase your top speed. It WILL increase your horsepower and torque which means better driveability. If you want higher speeds you need higher gears or a "rubber overdrive".
 
The turbo will NOT increase your top speed. It WILL increase your horsepower and torque which means better driveability. If you want higher speeds you need higher gears or a "rubber overdrive".

If your top speed is limited by engine power (as opposed to hitting the rev limiter) then a turbo will increase your top speed.
It'll also reduce the time taken to get there.
 
It is more expensive but a manafold is $500 on sale the turbo is $800 the oil lines, air and exaust your gonna be pretty close, not to mention your time, unless you have the time to dig around the bone yards which would be kinda fun if I had the time. At $2302.25 to the door in CT USA I'm gonna call in the order too. Think about a group thing and mabe start a thread to go for a discount. I'm in for Aug. or Sept. after that I'm on my own;). I will be turboed by spring 08 :cool:

x2 i'll place my order before september.

I will call people i know with 3B to see if they are interested.
 
The turbo will NOT increase your top speed. It WILL increase your horsepower and torque which means better driveability. If you want higher speeds you need higher gears or a "rubber overdrive".

What i want is not avint to constantly downshift to 4 th gear has soon has the grade is more then 2%.....I just want to keep it steady at 70 mph no mather the grade on higway, well 95% of the highway grade..And i think the turbo will help.
 

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