Found Water In Oil (1 Viewer)

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Looks like it. Still doesn't explain your problem. The HG looks fine. I guess having the head checked has to be the next move.

Ha, yeah, I wish that "could" explain the problem. Dropping the head off this morning...
 
Just found even more of that o-ring in the rear-most water jacket when I dropped the head off. Almost have all of it...

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When you did the oil change, you didn't by chance put in Pennzoil did you? I have known of a couple instances where Pennzoil turned to Jello in the crankcase. It's possible that if you caught it before it completely converted, you may have saved the engine as a whole.

BTW, if there is a crack in the head, I'll put my money on Cyl # 3 between the two valves based on the discoloration.
 
When you did the oil change, you didn't by chance put in Pennzoil did you? I have known of a couple instances where Pennzoil turned to Jello in the crankcase. It's possible that if you caught it before it completely converted, you may have saved the engine as a whole.

BTW, if there is a crack in the head, I'll put my money on Cyl # 3 between the two valves based on the discoloration.

I used Rotella T 5w-40. My guess is the crack had been there when I bought it, but not bad. When I changed to the diesel oil, maybe the higher detergents cleaned away some of the gunk that had been keeping the crack closed off.

I had disappearing water/coolant since I bought it, but it wasn't very bad until after the oil change. Then I got the dreaded milkshake...
 
Dunno yet...

Another question for those in the know... Is there a way to get just the plastic wire connectors (female ends) for all the fuel injector wire connections and other misc. wire connectors? Every single retaining tab on every single connector broke off while removing them. This engine must have gotten HOT!

Most of the connectors should have a 5 digit number on them that is the second half of the part number. The first half is usually 90980.
 
Most of the connectors should have a 5 digit number on them that is the second half of the part number. The first half is usually 90980.

Awesome! Thanks man!

Well, the head has no cracks, but they have not checked the deck yet. Should find out late tomorrow morning...

Another question... it looked as if there were plugs on top of the head, similar to "freeze plugs" in between the cylinders, on the push rod side... are these plugs where machining was done for the water jackets, and possibly a failure point?

You can see them clearly in this pic (not my head), right next to the head bolt hole, between the rocker stanchions...

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The head measured 6-7 thou off true, but they will give me the final number after it's been milled. This sounds like enough to cause an issue...

Still looking for an answer to my question above...
 
I see no mention of those plugs in the repair manual under the cylinder head section. I would guess they are similay to freeze plugs and would just leave them be. The spec for head warpage is 0.0059 in. max. If it was an overhead cam head I would replace it, otherwise I would have the machine shop resurface it and reuse.
 
I see no mention of those plugs in the repair manual under the cylinder head section. I would guess they are similay to freeze plugs and would just leave them be. The spec for head warpage is 0.0059 in. max. If it was an overhead cam head I would replace it, otherwise I would have the machine shop resurface it and reuse.

Yeah. I couldn't find mention of it either. The spec in the manual for warpage seems high to me, but I guess I'm used to specs for V-8's or Straight 4's.

I think I'm going to test the oil cooler myself as well...
 
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Most of the reason it's higher is because it's not overhead cam. If an overhead cam head is warped more than a few thousanths, it will bind up the cams or create to much resistance.
 
Well, another mini update. They had to take 18 thou off to straighten the head, so it was much, much more warped that we initially thought. Certainly an issue.

I'll pick it up later today, and then wait for my order of gaskets to come in...

Gonna drill out the oil galley plug, tap it for 1/8" NPT and plug it. Also gonna test the oil cooler myself...
 
So how do you think you're cylinder head got so warped, perhaps overheating?
 
Just wanted to say thanks for logging your progress on this, it will surely help others.
 
So how do you think you're cylinder head got so warped, perhaps overheating?

The PO said it had overheated at some point, and replaced the radiator, water pump, and hoses. It had been losing a bit of coolant, but not much... I drove it from Houston to San Antonio without losing but maybe a quart.

Just wanted to say thanks for logging your progress on this, it will surely help others.

No problem. I did a lot of digging when I first discovered the issue, but couldn't find many threads that went further than "Hey, I've got a problem!" and then no solution was documented.

There were a few threads that came to conclusions, and at first I discovered several 3FE owners with cracked heads and theories of cracked heads. But the more I dug, the more I found issues with warping, and a few with documented solutions. Warped head, decked, solved. So I'm hoping I follow suit.
 
Got the head back. Nice and straight now... Have an order placed with CruiserDan for gaskets and sundries, so it'll be a couple weeks before I slap it all back together...
 
Just wanted to say thanks for logging your progress on this, it will surely help others.

X3 ^^^this

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