'FJ400' Build Thread

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Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Threads
3
Messages
41
Location
Cochrane, Alberta
I have always intended to add a build thread for my 73 ’40 but due to my slow progress I felt like it would be better to put off doing so until I had more to show for it. As time has gone on I have acquired enough photos that I am in danger of never doing so if I don’t start now - not that I am all that far from where I started. (I did start a small introduction thread when I first bought the truck https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1st-’40-intro-questions-already.803001/)

When I purchased the truck I had almost no mechanical knowledge and I thought I would be able to drive it while I worked on it. However due to my lack of experience, that was not the case. Soon after getting it home I discovered oil pouring out from under the manifold, which I knew couldn’t be a good sign.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help-please-oil-leak-identification-with-pics.804281/#post-9188719

Fast forward a year or so and the 2F engine is out, a 6.6L Small Block 400 is in, attached to an SM465 and the original xfercase is sitting in it (thanks to the patience and support of my fiance, the help of my brother, and the tireless technical advice, fabrication, and general cruiser wizardry of Joe (a.k.a ‘sometlc’), a Mud member and now good buddy I met when I was picking up some parts i bought from him off of kijjiji). It has been a long road and a ton of learning just getting to this point. With three young children, a single household income, and no garage, both time and money are in short supply, but I am always looking forward to getting outside to work on it.

My intentions for it are fairly modest at this point. I would like to build a reliable vehicle for light wheeling / exploring with the family / sasquatch reconnaissance. I plan on going much further into restoring / rebuilding things some day in the future when time/money/knowledge allows, so one of my primary goals is to fix things in order to maintain them, and to just generally not make things worse with poor fabrication and quick fixes.

The list of things that it will need to get to this point are many, but I am slowly but steadily moving forward.

The Good
  • It came with lots of interesting history of the first two owners of the truck, original sales receipt & warranty card, fuel logs, maintenance records and receipts exc.
  • The frame is in fairly good condition for where I am from.
  • Actively registered and insured.
  • The floor is fairly solid.
  • Not extensively modified.
The Bad
  • 2f engine pouring oil from under the manifold (removed)
  • The rear fenders are ruthlessly chopped ( I have purchased bushwhacker flares that fit over/ cover this - sort of)
  • The “custom roll bar” doesn’t allow the use of doors. (will be replaced)
  • There is slight rot on the frame rail behind the rear spring hanger.
  • The tops of the wheel-wells are mostly rusted through (covered currently by roll bar rig).
  • Sloppy rollbar supports welded haphazardly to frame.
  • 2” body lift
  • The entire truck is painted with baked on textured vehicle undercoating.
Next steps
  • Wiring
  • Driveshafts
  • Tires / wheels (35" on white wagon wheels)
  • Grinding off rock guard, cutting out rot & rattle canning it Krylon pistachio (spring greenish).
  • Remove the roll cage and supports


I have attached some pictures of the progress so far, and will hopefully be able to keep this thread updated if only for my own interest; so please don't expect acts of mechanical genius, or a demonstration of the astounding workmanship that the Mud is absolutely packed with (for quite a while at least).


Before I picked it up (from the kijiji ad):
ss5paL-zvmp_PE3uf9DlaGRXtMHVZwv1GLWAKl8qu2Y=w759-h542-no


aYmoQ_wdIw0dcZ0HEUDf7L9Cun1uWfrimAsySkHRHM0=w674-h500-no


When I got'er home:
rBAWNw0wBQT7wH0C_Pcg8pAYFS7CMkCVwCCxK_G95L8=w640-h360-no


Picking up the small block 400 from my good buddy Logan in Cranbrook:
mKixXyVVqeQjqC7M2Tb_snhDm20tuJycKvhV9yVM8a4=w3264-h2448-no


Logan and his uncle working on his derby car (more of an art than a science Im pretty sure):
4RLLyr5r9NhxdIeERj4GpV2pXLBJGSqzkgbbcRtCW8Y=w3264-h2448-no


SBC400 arriving home:
Z0Ix-Szdh4Wgxm7WyIBMUErMHNGE2ZHsdK1_VlMHlj4=w1864-h2484-no


Bell-housing, SM465, adapter, transfercase, and propellermount being pulled and loaded:
jHyHEY3BNmiC87Sgf5N_QK1slw94apnmJiVbWgGzVh0=w1864-h2484-no


u-qyf1socrL4Hg4BIGGeGxbfQRWpprYBChLaM4UlNpw=w3264-h2448-no


y1FGXDARJmaU_gEoVaYb1Vt84IZLTsC4vPLSAMX_uus=w3264-h2448-no


Pulling the 2f out (note the rivers of oil coming down from under the manifold):
v5MWDtUZ5YD1NJ4fkC64eA_kXPiqjhqCXEUgdjsyXRs=w3264-h2448-no


e9a63l86QtjL1bGWzwmHSqLpYe6LdMJOPMdoBqARqQQ=w3264-h2448-no


Joe (sometlc) prepping and welding in the AA engine and transfercase mounts:
Yl74Lv22ekoKM_9oH4AmMBBE2XVSurVt8bRUAVLwGpg=w1864-h2484-no


SADs28PuP4ddpm-L3LSPBJ6k2aQhckkyHIPSUUg0Bk4=w1864-h2484-no


dFR2Mr_7O1h-Ng2Hi6gKNd_fs_AWY_dk67KazMtHJgg=w3264-h2448-no


A quick and very basic preliminary refresh of the motor:
3IdYTLQTTZ8mvdAP3Ax2pOMJ9eN4SCax81WexgNUJ2w=w1864-h2484-no


hzOaFittTk6Di0C2kAFOOvXWDftWFK5WSK0mRcgBCQg=w1864-h2484-no


SB400 in at last (FJ400):
S1OoG6wkdmqDHAAFf4MWB4Ej-Nph2tAfYd83RkB4fp8=w3264-h2448-no


Fender flares arrive (might be a touch premature but exciting none the less):
pOhK03i-jeZKWshyHurvWp5gwgezZjT2PCR9s1erMx0=w1864-h2484-no


It won't totally fix the problem but with the rubber welting added it will be close (good enough to stop me from wanting to kick a kitten every time I untarp the back half of my truck - at least until I have the money and skills to fix it properly) It will also look much better with 35s rather than the 31s on it now:
vy0RWclFvqD77j59mYAJFeir1U4hCSydK87a9Ig_Bdw=w3264-h2448-no
 
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When I am waiting for parts, or don't have the time to commit to be out tackling larger issues, I have been sanding and painting(rust reformer then topcoat) things that can fit in my basement:
0BMdn01KJhePjqdaBo0y97DRBesRDJ6aRbsMsVkWFzk=w1864-h2484-no


FnqB4UP1GFYYWVxruJ-tzKwcnElR726cdq4VTLnSPvc=w1864-h2484-no


I wonder how many cans I will need to do the whole truck? (+ primer as well) My local Walmart has caught on and is restocking their pistachio green paint on a very regular basis now:
jMIZSctTHobgDEgJrVCnEbBglrFdL2wLi8_R2Gi0NKs=w3264-h2448-no


Not awful for a rattle can job / my first experience with cutting out rust and using Bondo. I would rather replace the sections I remove with actual steel of course, but as I have no welding skills or equipment at this point, this will have to do for now. With the rust gone and it sealed up, it shouldn't continue to rot away for a while at least (I hope):
UZJWdbhRAsvTRNfIdw6KMnG2SCCs2vEtScDFlZS0BJo=s2448-no


My fiance got me an awesome USMC gas can from an estate sale last weekend and I picked up some new front end bling (I love the look of the 60 series badge on the 40). I know its very premature but for me collecting cruiser stuff, whatever it may, be is all part of the fun of the project:
O1djuhgmgxBd2jGnbPQW07vx4vEqF24qYoTPiooJJBM=w1864-h2484-no


EePDSMbqcRLbHJNZ9qQyxMh73MoYHS0_B6QmzzNK5lU=s2448-no



That's it so far, thanks for looking.
Cheers!
 
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400 SBC? That's gonna haul!
 
Welcome to the 400 club! My 400 is out of a 75 Impala and has an RV cam. I love how it drives (and sounds)! Good luck with your build!

Awesome! Mine is out of a 75 impala as well. Great to hear bud. Any issues with overheating? How are you cooling it?
Cheers!
 
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That should be way more than enough paint! Excited to see where this goes.

As for the body work I'd definitely hit up local club and get someone to teach you how to mig weld, and maybe borrow a cheap welder from someone.
 
Nice! I'm using a champion 3 core radiator, shroud and mechanical fan. Its never burped fluid on me with this setup. When I ran my old sensor and gauges, it ran around 205-210 regularly. Ive since installed the Dakota digital sensor and gauge and it runs between 215-220. The sensor is under the drivers side manifold. A little warm, but 400's tend to run warmer than 350's.
 
That should be way more than enough paint! Excited to see where this goes.

As for the body work I'd definitely hit up local club and get someone to teach you how to mig weld, and maybe borrow a cheap welder from someone.
Great thanks, I have been compulsively buying it out of fear of not collecting enough before they discontinue the color for some reason. Welding is certainly in my plans, just an issue of time for me at this point. I actually work at a tech institute and build learning sims and activities for welding courses regularly, so Im pretty solid on the the theory of it, just not the practice lol. I am a member of the local cruiser club although Im not sure they know it yet. Other than the odd comment on the mailing list I have been waiting until I have a drivable truck before I get more involved.

Nice! I'm using a champion 3 core radiator, shroud and mechanical fan. Its never burped fluid on me with this setup. When I ran my old sensor and gauges, it ran around 205-210 regularly. Ive since installed the Dakota digital sensor and gauge and it runs between 215-220. The sensor is under the drivers side manifold. A little warm, but 400's tend to run warmer than 350's.
Awesome thanks for the info. I have been afraid that the 400 would be very hard to keep cool.
 
Cleaned up and painted my grill.
Front clip mocked up -with the bezel that adorns the underside of my mantle in my living room, as I am currently sanding down and painting the original:
xDrBwCdwmw2EriXCWs8_qUjdWHkk9xfsZ2uz04bqoC4=w1280-h960-no



Usual location of above bezel (thanks to an understanding fiance!):
YkxhqEVIwMEluyGRAAw-nsQ1Fq_xOgnDyVN5RzLUi7I=w1864-h2484-no


Not sure what all the extra holes in the front bib are for, I should have filled them before painting it but it didn't really occur to me at the time. Im guessing either winch controls and or bumper mounted fog lights? ...although the one in the top corner has screw holes on either side. I think I may just find some rubber grommets that fit for now.
 
The mechanical fan that I have mocked up on my sb400 currently, fits well (clearance wise) but intersects with the path of the outflow from the radiator no matter where I positioned the radiator frame. If i move it to the passenger side as far as I can, or lower it by cutting the stock mounting brackets I may be able to get it to work, but it would always be a closer fit than I am comfortable with. On Saturday I made the journey to the local 'Pick your Part', and acquired two 2-speed electric fans from early '90s Ford Taurus' for $31.00 a piece.

Radiator outflow and mechanical fan blade:
3gaWVdhvrx6WNM8BTris56y6jjqvHAvch2-o052JGKDonSX_GjJCFnUpc4qpPdHrPPhAiDch_W3r5Okrn3RHSgU9Y8FYC8RJKEY8_mUvXTOX1dzFft6lv-0pZnvKIZd8Pg8QIK3t5TYh5IGFCxHb26LDT931HHnxPECmbOiy2REscqzVSltPorZ0ubdYTbDm2hqhQ3KfnyTaLrNiq2Bgq5X44ON6f_lRjrFh36kcDls26__Flv5uJQE9sQ3g5rgOo2Y3fAne9qa8lO-3EVqN84g5qgoYiPmm4ra2H8ZVVt_GswtOqoS0kTA6L-EMoUiLpuU2-IBbGIfi3D679GxBBrgen6SosW0bDjsJ-ejrLGqwBfV93VjTGRt3k3ivV3XBsUkNNq86b7N4T_jx9YviX-BN2LWoKQgr7miwBFLxfRdUnR7r5USLZDy2qn6JT8IICKUzid2czAsO56CS7gBUnN47BuRWG-4zD_gtPZo61lyL5_KVgWuXnLydWsxw4B1MuRk4YDrxHrEUZoAJdDwWd-wZkwXlpbfv97FtXJ1Rl5g=w1798-h2396-no


bapj-XCDaSfOkbuoMvmfADfZvz0cRuqz6ONN1J2D3JZr6b_HJvdBENoI_DLI1zGyY-mGQXQlboL_00xStcWhLJsHJH_iY4rQGZRGqw5fFkb5J4Bi8zzP1A_sJ-OgH10zboFGsSSGRs8OMGKvgfyO2IbfjeX6f2RpV_1d0uMcBq9Z0WnUxGu5p1xYEMFlBbNKOh9CZ9EyDdU6Y5gX3xRTD5RvWEjN8xGdFKVIYlyI3dY-PhUB8iG8TjbJMrzpg8vdPH1vuDPw0CQ_eQ4pX2N8mZmPpP1z6S54C3Tsd6MSBSBVMLmfyClpglxXRvsUqAI97x4b4_Tac0e0hLVRSIBHdPLxyf5YKftv8TU0eIa4CEBai26fynU6d1Rm4v5nBj0WRhbIFB7kzfFq89r0OxhQSyl3Pt-gma5mVF0BIcKA9Is1Ux1r5XZMNZDL5uCMKgD2GOFSr-CuPevRuI267_qiogQkQog4-BjYNNcdiksQ3JktchiUuEhUTKXI1kTwrYnz0hPWRBrEOtwbTfhn2CF3Nft4r0LagI1fKyh9wthmDWc=w1798-h2396-no


Rows of Ford organ donors eagerly awaiting a glorious reincarnation beneath the hood of a Land Cruiser!:
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Taurus 2-speed electric fans in the back of my 4runner (still a mess from camping), both in need of a good cleaning but otherwise seem to be in good shape:
dci1CdS8IDqtMAkuK64wl3wGx_GdFaVFHwhTQvVSjlsIPbCbu_NGJpjsXVSblTLghcZm0sDc6UXNjX4wo1-CvOfVs8oxR8XcxXZYw9QK1qTp04x7S1x_Bi1IfgSSXuLDURsbzdec-wkz1D46dACqPtWRqwUEs-OVPrBVlBsVWwupiKxS49lJdbH2qfTEHppiUEw_EiV48dFtk7ECzShJDASdDu7ckjmvVWYZLtUXnlS4MEjPJu-q_m_t6gj_BAL0nBLq3dIYZG2W4x8DVbk0mbqKWKTbGLLgWoSgXdlJSuOsnCWlOPEBSfofxuz1exHVnXTPcS3qEaE0iZa0zHUX5IKK0j1kbsAf8MTmgim8nLBqLa-gtbk16FJs--dpZI3pI0qQYTYmjjqqLrv9He7lla2iFFztw3nqxN5AKlP1XOrYg8fJ-X3izNH6aC8pztolO6ekrrYxOKLth-BopiaLaGwktDqfuLH_N-6yC6htlIvggNGzRJGxAUkw7IEaBvM4dY8DfkmqiVPYIUs9AMeav6z7mlFQB9GNm-osGI_389w=w3196-h2396-no



Next up will be cleaning, testing and fabricating a system for mounting them. Luckily there seems so be lots of reference material around the internets on the subject!
 
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