Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Do not defer your 2F coolant flushing.…
The FSM says to “change coolant if excessively dirty”. Well, my coolant was a 50/50 mix of Toyota coolant and did not appear dirty but wanted to flush and fill anyway. Glad I did.
First, my radiator is an aftermarket 4 row type made by CSF. The drain plug is annoyingly off set inside the 53108-60013 radiator support making it difficult to use the plastic drain plug. I decided to just undo the lower radiator hose for each time I drained and flushed the system. The drain plug size is an M10x1.50. I contacted CSF directly to order a replacement plug, in the event I ever break it, and they have none in stock nor could they confirm the plug thread size.
Image below shows the drain plug offset. This has been well documented on ih8mud with several creative options to solve for it but no vendor @ToyotaMatt has yet to offer a proven extension and petcock product. I chose to experiment and make my own but am on the fence with using it. It will be a back up to my plastic plug.
Opened the petcock block drain and drained the block. I used a hose to direct the flow into a bucket. Then, installed a temporary back flush hose fitting into my 5/8” heater hose and connected my water hose, I first just ran tap water then back flushed it with distilled water using a pump as shown. The water was pumped with pressure from the back of the engine up to the top of the radiator and also out the block drain.
The radiator coolant appeared clean upon inspection per the FSM but look at what was found after flushing. This is metal as you can see it sticking to the flashlight magnet bottom.
Once this was discovered, I opted to try Thermocure by Evaporust now CRC.
Followed their Instructions and then drained and flushed several times until no more rust flakes drained out. Each time I filled with distilled water I used a cheap $35 vacuum filler to not worry about having to burp it each time. It was a huge time savor.
Next I changed my water pump bypass hose and then upgraded all hose clamps to the OEM type made in stainless steel by Cityracer.
Also, I inspected my thermostat but did not remove it during the fill and drain process. The bypass hose is there to recirculate the fresh clean water in the head and block.
Finished by filling with 50/50 red Aisin coolant and now ready for fall/winter.
The FSM says to “change coolant if excessively dirty”. Well, my coolant was a 50/50 mix of Toyota coolant and did not appear dirty but wanted to flush and fill anyway. Glad I did.
First, my radiator is an aftermarket 4 row type made by CSF. The drain plug is annoyingly off set inside the 53108-60013 radiator support making it difficult to use the plastic drain plug. I decided to just undo the lower radiator hose for each time I drained and flushed the system. The drain plug size is an M10x1.50. I contacted CSF directly to order a replacement plug, in the event I ever break it, and they have none in stock nor could they confirm the plug thread size.
Image below shows the drain plug offset. This has been well documented on ih8mud with several creative options to solve for it but no vendor @ToyotaMatt has yet to offer a proven extension and petcock product. I chose to experiment and make my own but am on the fence with using it. It will be a back up to my plastic plug.
Opened the petcock block drain and drained the block. I used a hose to direct the flow into a bucket. Then, installed a temporary back flush hose fitting into my 5/8” heater hose and connected my water hose, I first just ran tap water then back flushed it with distilled water using a pump as shown. The water was pumped with pressure from the back of the engine up to the top of the radiator and also out the block drain.
The radiator coolant appeared clean upon inspection per the FSM but look at what was found after flushing. This is metal as you can see it sticking to the flashlight magnet bottom.
Once this was discovered, I opted to try Thermocure by Evaporust now CRC.
Followed their Instructions and then drained and flushed several times until no more rust flakes drained out. Each time I filled with distilled water I used a cheap $35 vacuum filler to not worry about having to burp it each time. It was a huge time savor.
Next I changed my water pump bypass hose and then upgraded all hose clamps to the OEM type made in stainless steel by Cityracer.
Also, I inspected my thermostat but did not remove it during the fill and drain process. The bypass hose is there to recirculate the fresh clean water in the head and block.
Finished by filling with 50/50 red Aisin coolant and now ready for fall/winter.
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