Door Lock Actuator Replacement (5 Viewers)

[kb9596]

Thanks for the tips 02cruzer. It looks like the bolt at the red arrow didn't need to be removed after all, and the arm it attaches too (I'm guessing that is part of the window assembly) had slid up a little inside the door cavity. The second bolt that keeps the arm attached can be seen to the right of the red arrow (under the plastic still). It took some pulling to get the arm to slid down a bit and the hole to line up with the bolt hole.

All is in and secured once again. Thanks.

Ken

 

[azink769]

Is there a whole list of cars this can be used on?

If you search for fc-280pc-22125 on ebay, and sort by "price + shipping: lowest first," the cheapest seller has a bunch of models listed, but not the years.. also, it says that the list isn't all-inclusive...

That seller has the motor with or without the tip, as well as a couple other versions of fc-280 in their store, but it's almost impossible to know what motor is for what without a list..

it just seems that no one has a complete list; any help? it would be nice to know...

 

[petrotk40]

ha this seller has this thread linked in their auction.

 

[petrotk40]

what happened to the edit button? anywho... wtf, these motors are $10 a pop now.

 

[re_guderian]

... wtf, these motors are $10 a pop now.

Still over an order of magnitude less than what Toyota wants for the entire assembly...

 

[petrotk40]

Still over an order of magnitude less than what Toyota wants for the entire assembly...

that is very true! ok, no more complaining

 

[Topoguide]

what happened to the edit button? anywho... wtf, these motors are $10 a pop now.

Still over an order of magnitude less than what Toyota wants for the entire assembly...

It is considerably less, but if you still have an issue and an entrepreneurial spirit (plus a little bit of extra cash) you could order some up in bulk and resell them on e-bay for less than the one guy who is selling these. I bet you could cover the cost of your motors plus make a little profit.

My wife was not into me doing that, so I just did a group buy here on Mud. I got mine at the lower cost and the other Mudders were happy to purchase at a the discounted rate. Plus I know that the motors I bought were good quality; I have no idea where the guy on e-bay sources his.

 

[sjpweaver]

I just came across your post on the dc motor door actuator. the ebay link is no longer available. I am trying to fix the same problem on my chevy suburban. the motor looks identical exept I cannot remove the worm gear. any other ideas.
thanks

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I just came across your post on the dc motor door actuator. the ebay link is no longer available. I am trying to fix the same problem on my chevy suburban. the motor looks identical exept I cannot remove the worm gear. any other ideas.
thanks

Heat!

 

[NorCalBorn]

re: My reply here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...-lock-actuator-group-buy-new.html#post6681690

*I'll have to see if that's the same spec motor for the 90-95 4Runner's/Trucks..my rear's both have given up the ghost and I would love a fix that's cheaper than they want for the whole units. If they are any problem w/ me jumping in on this as well as sharing the info w/ my side of the forum?

 

[jonharis]

It seems these parts have changed for the 2006. There is a plastic pinion now instead of metal and the pinion slides over a smaller keyed shaft with no collar. I purchased the part you guys have been using on the earlier models and it has the collar, but even if removed the shaft is to large in diameter and not keyed. I guess I'm off to get jammed by the Toyota Dealer since I have my wife's car in parts. I will take photos and post asap.

We'll I got my door torn apart tonight, and to my surprise I have the same actuator that is found in the 2006 model. It has the exact same configuration with the same length shaft but no collar and a notch in the shaft itself. I did test cycle a new one and it runs about 20 times stronger than the worn out OEM. Thankfully I have a dremmel and I'm not afraid to use it. I'll be grinding on an actuator tonight or tomorrow to get a proper fit.

Note the full length worm gear



Old motor on the left, new on the right. Old worm gear above


Note the Worm gear in notched to match the shaft. I will have to Dremmel the shaft to match this. Shouldn't be too mig of a deal.

 

[jonharis]

Just tried disassembling a motor (I have a few) to see if I could force the shaft out. It's glued in very well to the magnet. I doubt it would be removable without destroying the entire thing. My plan it to put the motor in a vice and slowly grind down the collar and shaft with my Dremmel. The collar should go pretty quickly because it's brass. Then I'll just grind > test fit > grind > test fit until I get it right.

If anyone has already done this with this motor post up. Pics before hand would be nice. I'll post my pics when it's all done.

 

[ubiquityman]

Thanks for the information on this forum.
It helped me get my door lock fixed on my wife's Honda Odyssey.

The lock on the door slowly got "lazier" over time. If I locked and unlocked repeatedly, the lock would have less and less actuation.

When I disassembled the door lock, and took out the motor, I drove the motor with a bench/test power supply and the motor would spin, but slow down over the next 5-10 seconds until it would not turn.

Since it was broken, I thought I'd determine "root cause". I pulled the motor apart to look inside.

It looks like the ~10mm x 8mm plate that conducts electricity through to the contacts of the commutator increases in resistance with prolonged use and prevents the windings from burning out. I think that's why the motor ran slower and slower from start to about 10-15 seconds.

But the most interesting thing I found was the root cause. The plastic cap was full of black greasy. it was probably a combination of grease and worn particles. I cleaned everything out with a low viscosity spray, but it still didn't work very well. My guess was that the motor was drawing too much current probably due to the windings being shorted. However the bench supply said otherwise. It didn't read like the motor was shorted. I've seen where debris with grease can cause a low-resistance bridge and it turned out that was true. The crud that was stuck between the commutators was conducting electricity so less current was going through the coils. I used a pin to clean out the crevice between the two commutators and voila, the motor worked 20x better. I then reassembled everything the now the door lock is working. Total cost $0. Total time 3 hours.

These motors are only $6 on ebay so it's probably easiest to just order one before starting the job, but I didn't do that ahead of time and didn't want to wait for one to be shipped to me.

CLEAN THE GAP BETWEEN THE COMMUTATORS WITH A PIN. THAT FIXED IT FOR ME!

 

[jonharis]

Quick update. For those with the 2004+ vehicles, the brass collar was super easy to remove using some vice grips and opposing forces. I was able to remove the motor from the case, remove the collar, dremmel the shaft till the worm gear fit and reassemble in about 5 minutes.

During removal of my lock I did break the yellow tab on the door handle mechanism. There was enough left to get it back together satisfactorily. Getting the actuator assembly out of the door was really the only part of the whole process that was a PITA. I'd recommend giving yourself a good amount of time so you don't get frustrated and start throwing things.

 

[sgunner]

Removing Actuator - How to get it out?

Jon - You are right. Getting the actuator out is indeed a PITA and indeed I haven't quite figured it out. Is there a trick to getting it out once everything is disconnected? I'm trying to take it down and out but it seems like the window track is in the way. Any tips are appreciated.

 

[jonharis]

Jon - You are right. Getting the actuator out is indeed a PITA and indeed I haven't quite figured it out. Is there a trick to getting it out once everything is disconnected? I'm trying to take it down and out but it seems like the window track is in the way. Any tips are appreciated.

I might need a pic. Make sure the window is rolled down. Once I had everything unbolted the only thing holding the actuator assembly in place was the yellow plastic piece attached to the handle lever actuator. There should be pics of that in the other thread. I used a screwdriver to pry it off breaking part of the yellow piece. Fortunately it all went back together.

 

[re_guderian]

On the front driver's side door, I removed the outer handle for more working room. Then used my daughter's tiny fingers to disconnect everything. Then just carefully lowered and twisted the assembly out.

 

[CRUIZIN]

Are the actuator "clam shells" held together by adhesive?

Has anyone tried baking them in the oven at low temp to ease the separation? I did this with my lights on my audi A4 to paint the inside of them, worked pretty good.

I plan on doing this project this weekend, I am planning on about 1 hour for each door, does that sound right?

Any other tips?

 

[jonharis]

Are the actuator "clam shells" held together by adhesive?

Has anyone tried baking them in the oven at low temp to ease the separation? I did this with my lights on my audi A4 to paint the inside of them, worked pretty good.

I plan on doing this project this weekend, I am planning on about 1 hour for each door, does that sound right?

Any other tips?

I "baked" mine on my driveway at 100F. came apart easily with minor taps on a screwdriver. The clamshell is held together by a solid adhesive. My rear passenger is the only door I've done. It took me 2.5-3 hours but that included lots of stopping to look at this thread and taking pics. I think for the other 3 I could do it in 1-1.5 hours per.

 

[Topoguide]

I "baked" mine on my driveway at 100F. came apart easily with minor taps on a screwdriver. The clamshell is held together by a solid adhesive. My rear passenger is the only door I've done. It took me 2.5-3 hours but that included lots of stopping to look at this thread and taking pics. I think for the other 3 I could do it in 1-1.5 hours per.

I did all 5 of mine (although the back hatch doesn't really count), and by the last door I had the entire process down to 45 mins. Once you figure it out it goes pretty quick.

Also, I did mine with the windows up. The entire lock assay came out by just popping it free by pushing the connecting rods about midway up. Once out it was easy to get to the actuator.