Did I just ruin my valve cover? ??? (1 Viewer)

[AaKnight]

Needed to clean my TB/intake, and, since there was some corrosion on my valve cover, I decided to pull it and have it blasted so I could paint it and make it look better. it now looks great..... but, what I didn't realize was the pvc system vents have trapped sand up in the baffles.

I should have searched mud first, because there are other posts warning not to blast it at all and to chemically clean it only... ughfff!!. too late for me to do it the smart way...

I've tried for several hours to flush things out with water, but it seems like there are too many twists and bends up there and I still feel loose grit up in there.

So.... do I need to add a new valve cover to my shopping list? or is there a way to break into the baffle to clean it? my initial thought would be to pry open the baffle or cut through the rivets and wash them out and tap a few bolt holes and use bolts fipg to put it back together.

I'm new to working on toyota engines, but I should have known better.... damn.

Any suggestions or advice on how to fix it?

 

[JaketheSSnake]

I've heard of people cutting/ drilling the rivets and then tapping them for screws when done. Sounds like your best option.

 

[AaKnight]

I guess it's worth a try, definitely can't use the cover as it is now. any advice on the best method of working those rivets out? They dont have heads like body rivets. Would I be punching and drilling down into them?

 

[2fpower]

That or grinding them off. Really only way to clean it out.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Not sure which type of rivet the baffle uses, but I used to build large computer server cabinets that were primarily riveted together, and I have had to drill lots of rivets in my life. All you really need is a good sharp drill bit the size of the mandrel hole in the center of the river head. Having a punch that fits the hole also makes things easier and quicker. If it's a pop type rivet you use a punch to knock out the remaining mandrel and then drill it. Otherwise if it's a crush rivet then you just need to drill it.

 

[96Cruiser13]

I have always found that a grinder works better than a drill when it comes to removing rivets. Both will work though.

 

[Kernal]

Moist heat (steam or water based parts washer) will help soften the varnish and crud trapped up in the baffle box, if you could take it to a shop that had an engine block washer, run it through that a couple of times. Or, a super detergent like Purple Power along with some high pressure water (steam would be better). Carb cleaner or cold water won't work very well to remove baked on sludge, which is what accumulates inside that box.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I have always found that a grinder works better than a drill when it comes to removing rivets. Both will work though.

It all depends on the rivet type, location, material etc... Like I said, I used to assemble server cabinets 24 pop rivets a cabinet 50+ cabinets a day using a pneumatic pop rivet gun. There were times I'd have to tear down frames I'd built to turn them into different cabinets for special orders etc... I drilled thousands of riverts over a 3 year period and found that knocking out the mandrel with an awl and hammer then drilling them out with a pnuematic drill was the quickest and cleanest way to do the job. Grinders only ever screwed up the surrounding areas while accomplishing the same job as a drill. All the cabinets were powder coated aluminum and areas where rivets were were not easy to access and coating touch up was a major PITA so I used the less invasive less time consuming method. I wouldn't recommend drilling for chassis rivets or structural rivets, but for pop rivets definitely.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Sounds like a PITA, but if your VC looks great it will be worth the effort rather than getting a new VC. Just my two cents. I wish my VC looked nice and shiny.

 

[Kernal]

I had my valve cover bead blasted six years ago, it was washed using an engine block washer before and after the bead blasting. I then did some more cleanings (of the oil baffle box) at home using Purple Power and the garden hose at full blast, let it dry a few days in the sun, then had it powercoated. I do regular engine oil analyses and over the past six years there have been no issues that could be related to any left over glass beads/dust; no change in silicon levels (parts per million) and no increase in wear metals. FWIW.

 

[AaKnight]

Thanks for the help guys... I was able to grind them off easier than expected. found the inside was totally caked with sand. I had rinsed it real good, but inside was about 1/3 cup of sand still trapped in between little chambers. all the walls were coated with sand, like feet at the beach. glad I didn't put it back on my rig like that!

The real challenge is drilling/tapping 21 holes to remount it... I'm thinking about adding a catch can anyway....

would there be any harm in leaving the baffle off and routing the pcv blowby to a catch can?

 

[2fpower]

My .02 is to use some quality sealant and just a 6 of the mounting points with self tapping screws. Loctite 518 maybe?

 

[AaKnight]

Had a pm asking if I took pics.... yup I did....

Inside baffle

• AaKnight
• Sep 26, 2016

Sandy pos

• AaKnight
• Sep 26, 2016

Cleanup

• AaKnight
• Sep 26, 2016

Silvery stuff is steel shavings from rivets

Sand caked to oily surface inside vc

• AaKnight
• Sep 26, 2016

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Yikes, good thing you did that

 

[96Cruiser13]

Wow... that wouldn't have been good in your valves... lol

 

[dogfishlake]

Lapping compound!

 

[AaKnight]

I'm defeated, now shopping for a new valve cover. much rather buy a cover than everything underneath it. I don't trust putting bolts up above my head. they'd probably be fine, but I don't like the risk. I think I'm gonna try the @2fpower method from his wtf post. might turn this one into a shop lamp or something. I'm still tempted to run without the baffle, but then I'd be worried about pcv clogs. i appreciate the help and advice from everybody. lesson learnded.

 

[slow95z]

I got you covered man