Cooling Issues- 5/75 2F (1 Viewer)

[Runnin On Empty]

Hey guys,
First off, I apologize in advance if there is a thread about this (which I am sure there is) that I missed.
I have a 5/'75 FJ40 with original 2F.
It has been sitting up since 2010 under the barn. I have been working on bringing it back to life but am having issues with it cooling.
First things first, when we got it running, antifreeze looked good and levels were correct. I test drove it for about 10 min and stopped to check everything. The radiator started boiling over and the temp gauge wasn't registering (I know they suck anyway).
We pulled it back in the shop and pulled the thermostat assuming that it was stuck and not properly opening. It appeared fine but I replaced it with a new one I had on hand anyway. (I didn't have the ability to pop-test either of them)

I sealed her all back up hoping that would be an easy fix. Well next weekend when I got back to it to test again, the same thing happened.
So my next option was to drain the block and radiator and start attacking all of the gunk buildup I've read so much about.

To my surprise, the radiator drained flawlessly after I shoved a punch through a small gunk buildup in the drain pipe. The antifreeze looked pretty good for sitting so long.
The block was easier than I expected also. The plug was a b*tch to break loose, but after I got it open, it once again drained with no issue. This is where I expected to have the issue after the radiator drained.

So the main question is... Where do I go from here?

If I left any info out, let me know!
Thanks for the help in advance guys!

 

[Fast Eddy]

If you want it to be great, take it to a shop. They can remove the tanks and rod out the water passages. It's probably 60% at best and they can make it like new. It costs about $100 and the original radiators are worth saving.

 

[Runnin On Empty]

Well would the radiator still drain so easily even if it needed to be rodded out? I would have figured it would hold fluid if clogged.

 

[John Smith]

With the radiator drained you should be able to visually inspect to get an overall idea if it is clogged. Since you have everything apart, I'd pull the water pump and make sure the vanes are still intact.

 

[Runnin On Empty]

Well I actually haven't pulled anything apart yet. That was my thought that the water pump may be the issue since the fluid seemed pretty clean.

 

[65swb45]

Are you running a coolant overflow bottle? Coolant will expand with temperature, and if you keep refilling the radiator, the excess fluid HAS to go somewhere until the radiator reaches the appropriate fluid level.

Spend $5 and buy a HVAC thermometer you can put between your coolant fins. Loads more accurate than a Toyota guage.

Best

Mark

 

[Fast Eddy]

Well would the radiator still drain so easily even if it needed to be rodded out? I would have figured it would hold fluid if clogged.

Yes. If it's 65% clogged, you can't tell without removing the tanks.

 

[Runnin On Empty]

Ok

Yes. If it's 65% clogged, you can't tell without removing the tanks.

ok thanks. Going to load it up and bring it back home today so i'll be able to pull it apart and get that done

 

[65swb45]

Whatever.

 

[Runnin On Empty]

Ok got everything pulled out EXCEPT the water pump. My dad has warned me about sheering off a pump bolt and said I should just rod out. I decided to pull water pump anyway since everything is apart and sure enough, there's a stubborn bolt on the bottom that I'm scared I will sheer off. Now I'm stuck trying to decide whether it's worth it or not.

 

[honk]

I can't see how you could come so far and leave the pump unchecked. So just go for it and if a bolt breaks deal with that as a part of the process.

Soak it up with penetrant. Make sure you've got tools that won't slip and round anything off. If you can get the bolt turning stop and give it more penetrant working it a little forward, a little backward. Go slow by hand only and never give it anything near your full strength. If you've got torches heat is sometimes the best loosener-upper of even the worst rusty crap.

With patience, decent tools, a good brain, and the help of this bunch of people you can do ANYTHING!

 

[Runnin On Empty]

I can't see how you could come so far and leave the pump unchecked. So just go for it and if a bolt breaks deal with that as a part of the process.

Soak it up with penetrant. Make sure you've got tools that won't slip and round anything off. If you can get the bolt turning stop and give it more penetrant working it a little forward, a little backward. Go slow by hand only and never give it anything near your full strength. If you've got torches heat is sometimes the best loosener-upper of even the worst rusty crap.

With patience, decent tools, a good brain, and the help of this bunch of people you can do ANYTHING!

I know it and I'd hate to rod it and put it back together and water pump be the issue. I did however flush the radiator from top and bottom several times and then let drain and dried for a day. I shook it today and could hear sediment shaking in it and some fell out of the top. So it has to be pretty dirty and clogged I'd guess.

 

[Runnin On Empty]

Welp, the water pump is off, and the bolt sheered off. Luckily it broke not far below the head and left a good bit of stud sticking out. I think I may be able to double nut it and back it out. Well that's my first hope anyway.

 

[John McVicker]

You are going to need a penetrant...my thinking is to get the GOOD stuff right away and make it easy on yourself.

Kroil or Liquid Wrench...really.

Good luck, John

 

[Runnin On Empty]

You are going to need a penetrant...my thinking is to get the GOOD stuff right away and make it easy on yourself.

Kroil or Liquid Wrench...really.

Good luck, John

Thanks, I scored some Hilco today so I'm soaking her down with that for a couple days.

 

[djcfj40]

The suspense is killing me.... What did the water pump impellers look like ??
Also, I would suggest flushing the block while you have that big hole open where the water pump mounts.
You would be surprised the amount of crud that settles in the block.

 

[Runnin On Empty]

The suspense is killing me....

LOL sorry guys, having time to work on it is a SLOOOOOW process with my limited time. I haven't broken into the actual water pump yet but from what I can see, it "seems" to be in pretty good shape for the age.
What process would you suggest flushing? I've read so many different ideas/processes that I'm really not sure which route to take. My initial assumption was that I'd not get a good flow from the block drain but when I had a water hose running through the water pump, I had a solid stream coming from the block drain plug. I know there could still be a lot of crud that is getting bypassed, but what is the best way to get at it without pulling the freeze plugs?

 

[Weber Sarge]

Pull the block drain completely out , go in there with a coat hangar and start jabbing at any sediment while flowing as much water through the block as possible . You'll never get all of it out unless you pull the freeze plugs and even then there are hidden pockets around the cylinders .

Get a chunk of paraffin canning wax and heat around that bolt with a torch with a decent narrow flame . Push the wax into the joint and allow it to soak in for a bit - once cooled it should back right out .
Best penetrant I've found in a can is Aero Kroil , otherwise look up Ed's Red and make some of that . Just be wary of the flammability and that recipe can be a decent paint remover as well . Never use the wax trick on something you want to paint - it soaks into steel and cast parts so paint will never adhere properly .

Sarge

 

[Runnin On Empty]

Thanks Sarge!
Great info. I appreciate it! Never heard of the wax trick but will definitely put it in my repertoire of tricks.
I actually just got the bolt out by having it double nutted, I was tightening the nuts in prep to heat and it started moving thankfully. Been keeping it soaked pretty well.

 

[sggoat]

Radiator/cooling system flush---Find an old washing machine water pump - get a 2 gallon or so bucket to use as the return from the engine. pipe it up so the pump sucks from the bucket, and pumps back into the lower rad connection on the block--the outlet is from the top of the t-stat hosing(t-stat removed, of course) discharging back into the bucket( good thing here would be to connect a hose from the rear block drain into the bucket too) Mix up 1 cup Cascade dish washing powder into 2 gallons of hot water-pour this into the bucket to pump into the cooling circuit. Crank up the pump and let the mixture circulate for ~ 4 hrs. Stop pump and let set overnight.(you would prob want to use some sort of filter in the pump suction to keep all the gunk that gets flushed out from going back into the engine) In the morning, start circulation again for ~ an hour. Shut system down and drain. Refill with clean water.(Best to use RO water, if available) Circulate for 1 hr. Shut down and drain. Refill with coolant of your choice.
The inside of the engine will look like the crystal out of your dishwasher--well--maybe