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converting 110v to 220v line (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JohnnyC
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That is ONLY for items like dryers and ranges - that combine both 110V and 220V. For example, the dryer operates mainly on 110V for controls, motor, lights, etc but has 220V heating elements.
A 220V item such as a compressor, welder, etc. uses only 220V and only requires two hots and a ground. There is no use for a neutral in a 220V-only circuit.
landcruiser-i was in home depo today and out of courisosity i took a look at the solid state dimmers and switches--they still use the ground as a current carrying conductor. ( you can argue that it's not objectionable since i't falls below a specified level- but it is there, just the same). the mafg's association make up theyr own code for the making of appliances and the nec is for the installation of electrical systems in buildings.as i said i don't know how they do it...! but if it's got a ul aproval, it's good to go. i'm pretty sure that some other mafg's are useing the ground also. this pops up quite often when the state inspectors come out for inspections. and the jouneyman's objections about this, always gets overuled. because it comes down to to different codes and it's too difficult to impose one code over another, that under the nec both are right- not trying to start a pi**n match here. just pointing out that it continues wheter or not it's recognized
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Interesting...
Please tell me more about the dimmers that use a ground as a current carrying conductor.
I look forward to learning something new
1, the solid state dimmers commonly found in home depo or lowes DO NOT use the ground as a current carrying conductor. they wrk by "shaving off" the sine wave. the same way a varible frequency drive works to control AC motors, for instance in a large buildings mechanical system to control fans or pumps.
2, there are about a billion different tests that UL,CSA,ETA perform and each one tests something different. some tests are for long term use, or objectional current or voltage, indoor or outdoor use, etc. its quite possible to get a UL stamp of approval for a product and still have unsafe or untested aspects of any given product. it costs money to get a product tested to determine if it is in compliance with ASTM, ASCE, or any other industry standard. some manufacturers pay the money to get their products tested against many of the standards, some only one or two. dont assume that a testing agency' s stamp is all inclusive.
3, what is known as single phase 240V wiring (even though it is two "hot" wires) can be ran with or without a nuetral wire. houshold dryers and ranges use 120V controls because they are cheaper and 240V heating elements because they are less costly to run. i have yet to see an air conditioning condenser use a neutral.it all depends on the type of load or appliance your running.
4, you can use a white colored wire as a "hot" if you mark it with another color, any other color than white or green are acceptable for "ungrounded conductors" as the NEC calls them.
5, just because th inspector passed it doesen't make it correct. I'm both an inspector and an electrician, sometimes i miss stuff, or i am unaware, or its not important enough to bust someones chops. most inspectors are required to know and inspect all 4 deciplines of construction. that means they can be equally bad at everything.
6, high leg (or delta 3 phase systems) should have the "b" phase as the high leg and marked differently.
as far as the reason for the post befor it was hijacked more than likely the circuit would be "daisy chained" to multiple recepticles or switches. maybe not. i would doubt that it would be a dedicated circuit for one recepticle unless there was an appliance there before. its almost never that easy.
dont ever, ever use the uninsulated "grounding" conductor as a current carrying conductor. its bad news. you stand a reallty good chance of fires or electricution by doing this. even if you dont get zapped you can blow up computers or other things plugged into the circuit that way.some of the posts on this thread were downright scary, aside from being code violations or unsafe.
2, there are about a billion different tests that UL,CSA,ETA perform and each one tests something different. some tests are for long term use, or objectional current or voltage, indoor or outdoor use, etc. its quite possible to get a UL stamp of approval for a product and still have unsafe or untested aspects of any given product. it costs money to get a product tested to determine if it is in compliance with ASTM, ASCE, or any other industry standard. some manufacturers pay the money to get their products tested against many of the standards, some only one or two. dont assume that a testing agency' s stamp is all inclusive.
3, what is known as single phase 240V wiring (even though it is two "hot" wires) can be ran with or without a nuetral wire. houshold dryers and ranges use 120V controls because they are cheaper and 240V heating elements because they are less costly to run. i have yet to see an air conditioning condenser use a neutral.it all depends on the type of load or appliance your running.
4, you can use a white colored wire as a "hot" if you mark it with another color, any other color than white or green are acceptable for "ungrounded conductors" as the NEC calls them.
5, just because th inspector passed it doesen't make it correct. I'm both an inspector and an electrician, sometimes i miss stuff, or i am unaware, or its not important enough to bust someones chops. most inspectors are required to know and inspect all 4 deciplines of construction. that means they can be equally bad at everything.
6, high leg (or delta 3 phase systems) should have the "b" phase as the high leg and marked differently.
as far as the reason for the post befor it was hijacked more than likely the circuit would be "daisy chained" to multiple recepticles or switches. maybe not. i would doubt that it would be a dedicated circuit for one recepticle unless there was an appliance there before. its almost never that easy.
dont ever, ever use the uninsulated "grounding" conductor as a current carrying conductor. its bad news. you stand a reallty good chance of fires or electricution by doing this. even if you dont get zapped you can blow up computers or other things plugged into the circuit that way.some of the posts on this thread were downright scary, aside from being code violations or unsafe.
This is the sort of thing that continues the confusion.
Single phase 240V wiring DOES NOT use a neutral. The only reason a neutral is run is for the second part of your explanation - that the appliance uses 120V circuits as well. If a 240V appliance does not use 120V, there is NO NEED for a neutral.
Thanks for taking the time to explain this. I am assuming this is why generators use the NEMA L14 connector with a neutral. When connected to a service panel, the 220 gets split into two separate 120 V circuits which require a neutural. Does this sound correct?
Yes. Any time you have 110V, THEN you need a neutral.
And (as implied before) as a disclaimer - this is for standard US single phase 110V/220V (120V/240V) wiring.
And (as implied before) as a disclaimer - this is for standard US single phase 110V/220V (120V/240V) wiring.
