converting 110v to 220v line (1 Viewer)

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sorta right.."two legs of different phases". if they are of the same phase-no workie! hope you didn't have money riding on this. i also stand corrected
 
well was i right or wrong??????????????


i need to know

I replaced a fuse panel in my old house with a modern breaker panel. It is 230 volt three phase. It has what is called a high or wild leg. This leg use to be allowed on the C phase but is now require to be on the B phase. Sound confusing. Try wiring some of your 115 volt stuff to the B phase and it can get real intersting.

But to answer your question can you make it work yes if the two 115 volts circuits are from different phases. Safe, correct or legal NO.

Bottom line if you don't understand electricity leave it to the pros.
 
I replaced a fuse panel in my old house with a modern breaker panel. It is 230 volt three phase. It has what is called a high or wild leg. This leg use to be allowed on the C phase but is now require to be on the B phase. Sound confusing. Try wiring some of your 115 volt stuff to the B phase and it can get real intersting.

But to answer your question can you make it work yes if the two 115 volts circuits are from different phases. Safe, correct or legal NO.

Bottom line if you don't understand electricity leave it to the pros.

holly crap you have a high leg system in your house?:eek:

i thought they were only used in industrial plants!:eek:

i do not think that is legal for a residential now, but maybe grandfathered in!:eek:

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 
I replaced a fuse panel in my old house with a modern breaker panel. It is 230 volt three phase. It has what is called a high or wild leg. This leg use to be allowed on the C phase but is now require to be on the B phase. Sound confusing. Try wiring some of your 115 volt stuff to the B phase and it can get real intersting.

But to answer your question can you make it work yes if the two 115 volts circuits are from different phases. Safe, correct or legal NO.

Bottom line if you don't understand electricity leave it to the pros.

To add to confusion of a Delta 3 phase service the power company requires the High phase to be on "C" phase in the meter socket or CT terminal then switches to "B" phase at its first means of disconnect...at least in AZ
 
holly crap you have a high leg system in your house?:eek:

i thought they were only used in industrial plants!:eek:

i do not think that is legal for a residential now, but maybe grandfathered in!:eek:

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

1000's of residential services in Phoenix Arizona use a Delta 3 phase. Most use a single phase panel with a Delta breaker that feeds the AC unit or fuses with a single 3 phase disconnect.
 
i ask the power company about three phase out here, and unless you have a farm they will not feed a house with three phase.
 
i ask the power company about three phase out here, and unless you have a farm they will not feed a house with three phase.

New homes it is not common but if you want to pay you can get in large home but it is Wye 3 phase not Delta.
 
To add to confusion of a Delta 3 phase service the power company requires the High phase to be on "C" phase in the meter socket or CT terminal then switches to "B" phase at its first means of disconnect...at least in AZ

Edit: Sorry Phil I just reread your post. The high leg does come into the meter on socket on C phase and switches to B between the meter socket and main disconnect in my case. Evergreen had it C phase all the way thru.


So when did they switch back to C phase? I bought the panel from Evergreen Hardware. Weatherhead, meter socket and two hundred amp panel. This was part of installing a pool back in 1983. I had the inspector (Phoenix) red tag the prewired setup while he was out inspecting something else on the Pool. I already knew the high leg had to be moved to the B phase center leg just hadn't done it yet. Only thing done was it was mounted on the wall so I'm not even sure why he even looked at it. Still using the old fuse panel 4' oever. Moved it 4' to keep from having a 16' weatherhead. At that time it was 10' from waters edge or 16' in the air. I perfered the high leg on the C phase because is made it easier to use two pole breaker on the top and bottom buses. Dryer and stove both had a neutral. I know on the dryer if I was sure that the motor leg wasn't on the high leg everything was alright. But not sure all dryers are wired the same. Just didn't want the dryer to spin to fast for a short time:eek: So is blue still the color for the high leg?

I did this work as a home owner which is legal. When talking to the power company (SRP) they told me to go ahead and switch the overhead lines once I had it wired. then when I had a green tag they would come out and run new overhead lines. So I pulled the wires out of the old weatherhead and spliced then to the leads from the new weatherhead hot. Not sure what the transformer was fused at but I doubt it would make any difference.:rolleyes: To this day I still can't believe the power company told a home owner to do this. Thinking back I wonder if my ex now wishes I had made a mistake:hmm:
 
Edit: Sorry Phil I just reread your post. The high leg does come into the meter on socket on C phase and switches to B between the meter socket and main disconnect in my case. Evergreen had it C phase all the way thru.


So when did they switch back to C phase? I bought the panel from Evergreen Hardware. Weatherhead, meter socket and two hundred amp panel. This was part of installing a pool back in 1983. I had the inspector (Phoenix) red tag the prewired setup while he was out inspecting something else on the Pool. I already knew the high leg had to be moved to the B phase center leg just hadn't done it yet. Only thing done was it was mounted on the wall so I'm not even sure why he even looked at it. Still using the old fuse panel 4' oever. Moved it 4' to keep from having a 16' weatherhead. At that time it was 10' from waters edge or 16' in the air. I perfered the high leg on the C phase because is made it easier to use two pole breaker on the top and bottom buses. Dryer and stove both had a neutral. I know on the dryer if I was sure that the motor leg wasn't on the high leg everything was alright. But not sure all dryers are wired the same. Just didn't want the dryer to spin to fast for a short time:eek: So is blue still the color for the high leg?

I did this work as a home owner which is legal. When talking to the power company (SRP) they told me to go ahead and switch the overhead lines once I had it wired. then when I had a green tag they would come out and run new overhead lines. So I pulled the wires out of the old weatherhead and spliced then to the leads from the new weatherhead hot. Not sure what the transformer was fused at but I doubt it would make any difference.:rolleyes: To this day I still can't believe the power company told a home owner to do this. Thinking back I wonder if my ex now wishes I had made a mistake:hmm:

Today if anyone from a licensed contractor to home owner pulls a meter, cut or splice a drop they go crazy and threaten you will all kinds of stuff. That has been about 10 years now...Dont touch my junk!

I tell SRP about once a month to call APS and learn how to do things right-SRP sucks!

Yes you are correct that all dryers motors run on 110V. So you have a 50% chance of getting right if you use the high phase.
 
i think buy NFC it has to be orange!

Yes, I assuming you mean NEC and referring to the high leg color then.

110.15 High-Leg Marking.
On a 4-wire, delta-connected system where the midpoint of one phase winding is grounded to supply lighting and similar loads, the conductor or busbar having the higher phase voltage to ground shall be durably and permanently marked by an outer finish that is orange in color or by other effective means. Such identification shall be placed at each point on the system where a connection is made if the grounded conductor is also present.

230.56 Also talks about orange color on a high leg

408.3 Talks about placement of high leg in equipment

HTH -Phil
 
wow what did I do here? LOL

Its a good thing the LG 15,000 btu AC is in the window right now :) and I didnt have to go thru all this :lol:

This is useful however....you never know if i'll need 220 in the garage :hmm:

BTW Thanks again to all that have responded...it was educational and entertaining as well :)
 
I believe 480 is brown orange yellow.

208-230 is black blue red. With Blue on the B phase

The color question is common, orange is the only conductor color rule I know of and the code is not 100% clear on it "permanently marked by an outer finish that is orange in color or by other effective means" I have been told there was a color code requirement in the NEC back when, but it was removed in the mid-70’s. Proposals have been made but the argument is "we dont want you to look at a red wire and assume its 120v to ground, you need to test it". The industry has adopted on it own the BLK-R-BL low voltage and B-O-Y brown-orange-yellow high voltage. But many dont follow it.:meh:

Sorry JohnnyC the hi-jack is over...Glad to see you are cool now without help:flipoff2:
 
around here 120/240 or 120/208 is black red blue! and they are trying to standardize B O Y for 480/277 volt but when you are in n older building you better check the 480 phasing the 120/208 and 240 have been pretty standard around here for a long time.

now when you are talking the high leg i do believe that has to be orange, on either system.

i could be wrong as i have never messed with one just heard of them and had a lot of reading on them in my apprenticeship training.
 
Okay now I going to have to see what color I marked the B phase at our old house. It's only been 28 years since I wired and it passed inspection so I could be wrong and I had to mark it orange. Because HVAC is my tradeoir or use to be before getting a goverment job where I'm not sure what I do the only place I got into panels and wiring was my own home.
 
No reason for you to get backfeed on the ground. In this case the ground is an equipment ground only and should have no potential unless there is an equipment failure.

If you get a 110V from each phase, it will work fine. If you get two 110V from the same phase, it is like running two parallel wires from the same place - and the only place it has to go is to ground since you don't have a neutral.
 
If you get a 110V from each phase, it will work fine. If you get two 110V from the same phase, it is like running two parallel wires from the same place - and the only place it has to go is to ground since you don't have a neutral.

The ground is an equipment ground and is not part of any circuit or used as a current carrying conductor.

My post was referring to using the ground as a neutral as quoted by the previous poster
 
Okay now I going to have to see what color I marked the B phase at our old house. It's only been 28 years since I wired and it passed inspection so I could be wrong and I had to mark it orange. Because HVAC is my tradeoir or use to be before getting a goverment job where I'm not sure what I do the only place I got into panels and wiring was my own home.

hey that is ok my Dad was a fire fighter he rewired our family home years ago, and used the white wire as the hot, and it passed inspection.

it would not fly today, also it is a pain to fix s*** for him i keep forgetting he used the white for hot, i wanted to redo his panel and everything but he is stubborn.
 

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