Thanks for all the good ideas guys! so if I got this straight, the wire running to the actuator motor runs right inside to the motor without a plug there? That might make testing it a bit difficult...
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So I took it back out, and what had happened was the spiral springs had lodged themselves up and onto the casing of the actuator... that little physical "limit" raised section along the bottom of the case.
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Any idea how the spiral springs are getting forced too far past their electrical limit via the contacts on the Contact Plate? It's only done this since I had the CDL apart originally to clean it out.
I am getting really annoyed and desperate now
Thanks Kevin. It's stuck in the unlocked position, as it was the previous time. It messed itself up randomly sometime over the previous couple weeks, when I didn't even put the truck in 4low or attempt CDL. Very odd.
I also have done the Pin 7 mod, so I don't need to worry about it attempting to lock and burning out when I put it in 4low (thankfully)
What part is the slip switch? Are you talking about the Contact plate on the driven gear and the 3 prongs?
The wierd part is when I reassembled, it worked flawlessly for a week or more. Then without playing with it at all, it somehow jammed itself. Somehow it's allowing it to go past the keyed notches on the contact plate
Question, when you put the driven gear back into the actuator housing, does it matter what way it goes in? (12 o-clock, 1 o-clock, 2 o-clock etc)
Switch type or activation doesn't matter. If it is jammed out of position, the slip switch/contact plate will close the relay, attempt to drive the motor until it is in the unlock position. If it can't move, can burn up the motor.
My best guess is: It is getting a ground short somewhere, randomly closing one of the relays. Or it has a problem in the control box causing the same result? Carefully check the harness around the CDL, have seen them chaffed enough to short.
I install them centered, between limits, connect an ohm meter to the lock relay output connections and move it until the connection opens. Likely isn't needed, if it is installed somewhere in the center, when plugged in, powered on, will go to switch position (locked or unlocked). I always plug it in and run it through a few cycles locked to unlocked, etc, before bolting the actuator on.
After I did all of the above, wouldn't it be a safe bet to pull the actuator? Should I even touch the tranny relay? Would it click if it was shot?