Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (11 Viewers)

[Broski]

Might be an optical illusion, but they don't look parallel with the ground. I have a magnetic angle gauge (Wixey) that I level mine with before doing front and rear measurements.

If the wheels are straight forward then it should matter if there level as long as there the same. Again JMO

 

[Broski]

Full detail wash & wax.
This has been a great DD really happy with it, hard to believe I have had it almost 4 years

I have the dog trained not to go into the street she's really good about it even when People are walking there Dogs by she won't go past that red strip at the drive way approach. When I was done vacuuming there she was just setting there checking things out

 

[aztoyman]

Great dog. Looks like she has your back.

My 5 Goldens would be out slurping everyone's face. They just can't help it.

 

[Ecliff5]

Heelers are the best.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I have the dog trained not to go into the street she's really good about it even when People are walking there Dogs by she won't go past that red strip at the drive way approach. When I was done vacuuming there she was just setting there checking things out
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My red cattle dog was exactly like this. Wish i had photos of her.

She'd sit at the end of the driveway and watch the world go by.
The mail man would always stop and give her a pat ( posties ride CT90 motor bikes in Aus) he once said "she's the only dog on my route that doesn't try to eat me!"

I used to take her to work on residential house construction projects. She do the same. Sit beside my work ute she'd walk one house over in either direction, and no further.

If other tradies came to site, she wouldn't let them come past my ute without my say so. Once I said OK, then she just wanted pats.

I could leave my tool trailer on site, tools laying all over, tell her "Sit! Stay!" Then drive away and go to the hardware. She'd be in the same spot when I came back an hour later.

 

[Broski]

The tow rig got the same Spa treatment today

The camper will be going back on soon

 

[aztoyman]

Looks new.

 

[thebrassnuckles]

Here are a few more of mine. I didn't realize when planning it out that the B and C pillar parts bump out a bit, ended up notching my 2x5. Would maybe use 2x4 or have it stick out more if I were to do again, the rest of the inner rocker/pinch weld is easily hammered over. Sleeved a hole for the sunroof drain and just pulled the drain tube through when I put them up to weld. Those holes got solid rod plug welded in each of them, wanted a bit more support since I only used 1/8 wall. Left a few spots open on the inside for more drainage holes for the rocker.

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you wouldnt happen to have a few pictures of the rocker cut out before install, would you? I am wanting to build a set of cutout rock sliders and I cant find any pics that show me what I would be getting into.

 

[Broski]

you wouldnt happen to have a few pictures of the rocker cut out before install, would you? I am wanting to build a set of cutout rock sliders and I cant find any pics that show me what I would be getting into.

Sorry I don't, it was one of the first mods and I didn't document it well.

 

[DirtSniffer]

I didn't either, camera was messed up at the time. I will say though that you will probably want to butt the rectangular tubing right up against the B pillar back, which should also put it flush with the C pillar cross member where it meets up with the pinch weld. I also noticed that the pinch weld is not an even distance from the outside of the rocker from front to back, I want to say there was at least a 3/8" difference front to back. But, the pinch weld is easily hammered over. Doing this will also not leave you with a tough to access cavity on the inside where the sunroof drain is like the way I did. I ended up sealing the gap there with seam sealer as I couldn't see well enough to weld it.

Another thing I did was weld a plate at the back end up into the wheel well. Pictures aren't the best as it's been raptor lined and fluid filmed but hopefully it'll help.

Here is where my C pillar body cross member ties in. Which reminds me, I gotta find those rubber plugs for the back of the pinch weld and put them back in.

And here is that cavity I mentioned that I ended up with at the front.

 

[thebrassnuckles]

I am curious if welding a strip of angle iron to the back side of the rectangular tubing and then welding that along either the pinch seam or whatever it would line up with would be a good method. either like _|[] or L[]

 

[Broski]

@DirtSniffer has done way more on his then I did on mine and mine have held up to lots of abuse.

 

[thebrassnuckles]

I was imagining something like this, to weld more or less to the bottom of the pinch weld, not have to worry about the C and B pillars sticking out, and still have a similar amount of weld to the body. I would cap off the ends into the fender wells as you both have done, I think it might give a bit of positioning space. Obviously a very rough sketch.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I was imagining something like this, to weld more or less to the bottom of the pinch weld, not have to worry about the C and B pillars sticking out, and still have a similar amount of weld to the body. I would cap off the ends into the fender wells as you both have done, I think it might give a bit of positioning space. Obviously a very rough sketch.View attachment 3598116

Pull out the plastic inspection plugs from the inner face of the rocker and the underside.

With a flash light you can peep into the holes and see most of the structure. Also, remove the door sill trim and peep through those holes too.

I did similar to what you have sketched, but think your angle/ connection to the pinch weld creates a weakness by separating the SHS from the rocker structure.

What your sketch doesn't consider is the pillar structure that extends into the rockers

 

[baldilocks]

I was imagining something like this, to weld more or less to the bottom of the pinch weld, not have to worry about the C and B pillars sticking out, and still have a similar amount of weld to the body. I would cap off the ends into the fender wells as you both have done, I think it might give a bit of positioning space. Obviously a very rough sketch.View attachment 3598116

Here is another example of a rocker chop that’s fairly well documented: Builds - The Trail Snail Build | Above Average Overlandish - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-trail-snail-build-above-average-overlandish.826962/page-30

 

[thebrassnuckles]

Here is another example of a rocker chop that’s fairly well documented: Builds - The Trail Snail Build | Above Average Overlandish - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-trail-snail-build-above-average-overlandish.826962/page-30

OOH thank you! That is very helpful!

 

[thebrassnuckles]

Pull out the plastic inspection plugs from the inner face of the rocker and the underside.

With a flash light you can peep into the holes and see most of the structure. Also, remove the door sill trim and peep through those holes too.

I did similar to what you have sketched, but think your angle/ connection to the pinch weld creates a weakness by separating the SHS from the rocker structure.

What your sketch doesn't consider is the pillar structure that extends into the rockers

What does SHS stand for?

The reason for the angle is to try to leave the pillars intact and connect to the body below them where the pinch weld is without having to notch the rectangular tubing like @DirtSniffer or needing cut holes in order to get good welds on the pillars to the top of the tube like @SmokingRocks

I'm just not sure how far the pillars extend into the rocker area, if its even worth it to try to avoid cutting into them. I was also hoping to slap a set together before the weekend for a trip, but a job came up tomorrow so its very unlikely once im back I can cut the rockers open and take my time measuring and formulating a proper plan.

 

[DirtSniffer]

You can avoid notching like I did by just butting up to the B pillar and C pillar and hammering the rest of the rocker over to the rectangular tubing. This is what I would do if I was to do things over again. They jut out maybe 1/2". You should be able to crawl under and see for yourself.

 

[mudgudgeon]

What does SHS stand for?

Standard terms for steel sections in Australia
SHS - square hollow section
RHS - Rectangular hollow section

I should have used the term RHS

 

[Broski]

Did a bit of tinkering this afternoon

A little trail damage

New part made

Some paint tomorrow and done